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Is both tyres off the ground if I place the centre stand on a 2x4?

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My new tyre arrived, so I need the front wheel off. Will both tyres be in the air if I place the centre stand on a 2x4?

I see the manual calls for using a block of wood under the engine. I do not have a suitable piece of wood and the exhaust would get in the way.

It would have to be left standing in the garage for about a day or so. Swamped at work.
 
No it wont balance that easy. And if you did balance the center stand on a 2x4 and got both wheels in the air, the weight of the bike would change with the removal of the front tire and it would fall back. I have an old tool box that fits well under the exhaust of my bike and will hold the front of the bike up when its on the center stand. You will have to find something to wedge under the engine area to prop the front up and keep in mind most of the weight will still be supports by the center stand. Even a scissor jack from a car works.
 
No it wont balance that easy. And if you did balance the center stand on a 2x4 and got both wheels in the air, the weight of the bike would change with the removal of the front tire and it would fall back. I have an old tool box that fits well under the exhaust of my bike and will hold the front of the bike up when its on the center stand. You will have to find something to wedge under the engine area to prop the front up and keep in mind most of the weight will still be supports by the center stand. Even a scissor jack from a car works.

I guess I can pick up a jack stand or something.

Should I just ditch the 2x4 and prop it up with a jack or jack stand? I have some cardboard or stryofoam that would be able to protect the engine.
 
Place your bike on the center stand, you will notice the bike rests on the front wheel.
That will not change if you place a 2x4 under the center stand.

A car scissor jack will get between the exhaust pipes and push the front wheel off the ground.

But before doing that, check the rear fork of your bike.
The G has a hole on it that lines up with a hole in the center stand pivot.
Stick a screwdriver in there so the center stand cannot collapse by accident.
Cool feature the chain drive GS1000 does not have.
Loosen the bolts on the calipers and main front axle nut with the front still on the ground.

Now you can place the 2x4 and use the jack.
 
Place your bike on the center stand, you will notice the bike rests on the front wheel.
That will not change if you place a 2x4 under the center stand.

A car scissor jack will get between the exhaust pipes and push the front wheel off the ground.

But before doing that, check the rear fork of your bike.
The G has a hole on it that lines up with a hole in the center stand pivot.
Stick a screwdriver in there so the center stand cannot collapse by accident.
Cool feature the chain drive GS1000 does not have.
Loosen the bolts on the calipers and main front axle nut with the front still on the ground.

Now you can place the 2x4 and use the jack.

I am familiar with the hole to keep the centre stand intact, when reading the instructions for the rear wheel it was advised to stick something there (I used a random bolt lying in the garage). Its a great feature.

Should I place the 2x4 under the centre stand? Or somewhere else?

Good advice to losen the bolts first, probably a ton easier that way.
 
i think you can do without the 2x4, the wheel should just slip out if the front is lifted using the jack.
 
i think you can do without the 2x4, the wheel should just slip out if the front is lifted using the jack.

Ooh, I just remembered I own a jack, its a useless bottle jack. It could get my car barely high enough to remove the wheel, but not high enough to replace the wheel, had to call roadside assistance to my driveway (was a sunday and nobody I knew was awake). And I didn't have any wood to put under the car since the jack point was busy. Its useless for cars, but Im sure it will work for this application.
 
What you’re looking to do is something like this. Doesn’t have to be jack stands. Could be something free and simple like a milk crate and some hunks or lumber, as long as it’s solid.

JZxhlgll.jpg


There is a trick using a 2x4. Totally different application. Do this when you want to remove your stator cover without spilling oil.
(Not my photo, cant remember who posted this to help me, but thank you. I stole your pic to use as an example)

lkgnA7zl.jpg
 
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What you’re looking to do is something like this. Doesn’t have to be jack stands. Could be something free and simple like a milk crate and some hunks or lumber, as long as it’s solid.

JZxhlgll.jpg


There is a trick using a 2x4. Totally different application. Do this when you want to remove your stator cover without spilling oil.
(Not my photo, cant remember who posted this to help me, but thank you. I stole your pic to use as an example)

lkgnA7zl.jpg

Those jack stands arent pushing the engine though? they are pushing the frame?

I remember someone advising me that you could remove the stator cover with the 2x4. Maybe that is my cause of confusion. I am scared to remove any covers that hold oil until I have new gaskets though.

Maan I am envious of the blackness of that center stand. I need to make a friend that loves painting. Or one that loves beer/whisky and is skilled at painting.
 
Putting the center stand up on a 2x4 is the only way I can get my rear tire off just because of how low the rear still sits without it. Won't be a problem for you to do but I would still suggest putting a jack under the front part of the engine when you remove the front tire
 
Noreg, To make it easier to remove the rear wheel, put the bike on the center stand, then add a 2x4 underneath it. Use a board that is long enough to go under both feet of the centerstand. Start by leaning the bike to the right, as in the picture below, slide one end of the board under the left foot. As you can see in the picture, the bike is still stable. Tip the back back kto vertical, slide the other end of the board under the right foot.

Once the rear is elevated like that, you can remove either the top or the bottom of the shocks to allow the swingarm to drop. When the wheel is removed from the rest of the bike, there is now enough room to roll it out past the fender.

There is a trick using a 2x4. Totally different application. Do this when you want to remove your stator cover without spilling oil.
(Not my photo, cant remember who posted this to help me, but thank you. I stole your pic to use as an example)

lkgnA7zl.jpg
That was my picture, Rich, you are welcome to it. :encouragement:

The "totally different application" shown there is preparation to remove the stator cover without draining the oil.

.
 
Once the rear is elevated like that, you can remove either the top or the bottom of the shocks to allow the swingarm to drop. When the wheel is removed from the rest of the bike, there is now enough room to roll it out past the fender.

To avoid ever having to do that again, I removed a few square inches of the rear mudguard on the right side, so the wheel passes out easily while on the stand, without having to drop shocks or any of that stuff.
 
To avoid ever having to do that again, I removed a few square inches of the rear mudguard on the right side, so the wheel passes out easily while on the stand, without having to drop shocks or any of that stuff.

I just grabbed the frame with my right hand and wheel in my left hand. Was easy to get enough room. I had removed both shocks completely though.
 
Getting the tyre off while the bike is on the centre stand without extra support is unproblematic, just do as with the rear tyre and tilt the bike with one hand and remove it with the other, easier if you steer completely.

Sadly I learned that if you drop by the tyre shop 10 minutes before they close they won't mount and balance your tyre before the next day! So I am tyreless until tomorrow.

I got some jack stands:
T6ZwaS5.jpg


They work great even before I removed them from the box.

I seized the opportunity to remove the fender, and I am painting the inside with hammer paint. It can be painted over rust and should resist impacts.
 

Looks like your rear fender is already shorter than mine were, so you might get away without disconnecting the shocks.
Reason I modified mine was it was a pain in the arris doing that when time was pressing and I'd a job on.
Practical mod for a working bike.
 
Looks like your rear fender is already shorter than mine were, so you might get away without disconnecting the shocks.
Reason I modified mine was it was a pain in the arris doing that when time was pressing and I'd a job on.
Practical mod for a working bike.

That makes sense, I couldn't figure out why everyone was making it out to be an issue when I did just fine.

I think doing this wheel swap on the lawn was a bad idea, the center stand is sinking a bit in the grass.
 
Noreg;2618327 I think doing this wheel swap on the lawn was a bad idea said:
Before it sinks too much, put some plywood under the stand by leaning it over, kick the ply under one foot of the stand, lean it back up onto that foot and do the same with the other.
If you ever go camping with the bike you'll soon discover why regulars take a wooden puck along with them to put under the kickstand.
 
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