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Is this engine oil ok to use?

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dcboys81
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Dcboys81

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I have a 1985 GS450L. In my manual it says to use SAE 10w40, with an API rating of SE or SF. I had gone out to walmart and picked up some 10w40 Valvoline oil, that is SAE 10w40 but the API says SM/SL. I never noticed the API rating before, I had bought motorcycle oil from autozone last fill up. But after going through the manual this API thing kind of bothers me. Should I return the oil and get a SE SF API rating, or can i use the SM/SL? Thanks again in advance.
 
As lubrication technology advances the API ratings change. The SE/SF's are replaced by SF/SG and so on. The SM/SL is just the latest formula.

The most important thing is don't use an oil that says "Energy Conserving" in the circle on back of the bottle. That oil has anti-friction additives that could cause your clutch to slip. The 10W40 Valvoline should be OK to use.

Hope that helps,
Buddy
 
I have a 1985 GS450L. In my manual it says to use SAE 10w40, with an API rating of SE or SF. I had gone out to walmart and picked up some 10w40 Valvoline oil, that is SAE 10w40 but the API says SM/SL. I never noticed the API rating before, I had bought motorcycle oil from autozone last fill up. But after going through the manual this API thing kind of bothers me. Should I return the oil and get a SE SF API rating, or can i use the SM/SL? Thanks again in advance.
I think the letters appended to the viscosity are standards from different years.

there is a progression in which newere standard supercede their forerunners.

http://www.aa1car.com/library/api_motor_oil_classifications.htm
 
I'd take back that auto oil and get diesel oil - the typical 15W-40 is fine. It has more high pressure additives than auto oil and is perfectly appropriate for a motorcycle.
 
definitely take that back and get diesel oil like nessism said!

I learned this lesson the hard way ;) It's no fun getting those "energy conserving" additives out of your clutch.
 
Your quickest assurance of suitability is to look at the API "donut" on the rear panel. I believe the top of the outer ring shows the viscosity. The center shows the grade. The bottom of the outer ring might show "Energy Conserving". If it does, DO NOT USE THAT OIL. I have not yet seen a 40w oil with that designation, but that does not mean that they don't exist.

As mentioned previously, unless you want to go to a bike shop and pay exhorbitant prices for "special motorcycle oil", your best bet is to get diesel oil. Go to your favorite auto parts store, look for Shell Rotella oil. There is a white jug of "regular" oil that is 15w-40, the gallon size is about $12. There is also a blue jug of "synthetic" oil that is 5w-40 for about $20. Either of them will work very nicely.

If your bottles of Valvoline Max Life do not have the "Energy Conserving" designation on the back, go ahead and use them for now, then switch to Rotella for the next change.

.
 
if 15-40 is good, tractor supply used to sell it cheap by the gallon. i think it's rotella. an oil wholesaler friend of mine said he can't wholesale that oil cheaper than tractor supplies sells retail.
 
My local Walmart has the 2.5 gallon jug of Rotella 15w40 for $25.
 
Diesel oil, hmmmm might give that a try next time, instead of buying that rediculous cycle oil.
 
Diesel oil, hmmmm might give that a try next time, instead of buying that rediculous cycle oil.


Diesel has more detergent in it as well.
They used to laugh at me whenever I had to buy a litre of diesel oil at a service station on a long hard trip.
 
Diesel oil, hmmmm might give that a try next time, instead of buying that rediculous cycle oil.
Cycle oil is "special" because it has additives that have been mandated out of service for cars. We need those additives (notably zinc) because the oil in our engines also lubes the transmission. The action of the gears in the transmission is not found in auto engines, so they get by without the zinc, that tends to foul the catalytic convertors that our bikes do not have. Diesel oils still have more zinc than car oils, but a little less than cycle oils. They also have some good detergents in there to keep all the gunk in suspension for the long oil change intervals found in diesel engines, and that's helpful in our bikes, too. Overall, it's a decent compromise.

.
 
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The Rotella works great, It has the extra extrem pressure additives that a deisel requires that are also beneficial to the gearbox
 
Just changed my oil getting ready for the riding season. I use Rotella 15w40....
 
energy conserving

energy conserving

i just read this, and went out and checked the oil, I have been using to top off my bike and it is the energy conserving oil, I guess i will change my oil. Hopefully it has not messed up my clutch.
 
Oh boy! Another oil thread!

I just wanted to say that I use (diesel engine) oil too. :D


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Couple of days ago I bought some Vavoline diesel oil off Amazon for $15/12 quart case w/free shipping. Bought two cases so I’m covered for a while now.:)

Regarding oil threads, I like them better than tire and carburetor threads but that’s just me I guess.:)
 
My Ol' Lady's gotsum oil, It don't say "ENERGY CONSERVING" on it nowhere, but it does say "0 TRANS FAT" .
Can I use that?:confused:
 
My Ol' Lady's gotsum oil, It don't say "ENERGY CONSERVING" on it nowhere, but it does say "0 TRANS FAT" .
Can I use that?:confused:

No, you want to use melted Crisco as it'll give you a 10-15% HP increase, easy. ;)
 
hhmmmm.. Crisco you say?
The extra power would be nice. Do they have it in "Diet"?
The horses are good for BADAZZ, But we don't want FATAZZ.
 
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