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T
tirebiter
Guest
The battery was dead one day and I had to do this work about a month ago. The battery was on it's last legs but still kept starting the engine every time I rode her. The battery finally gave up the ghost entirely, two days ago and I had to break down and fork over for a new one ... as fortold by those in the know, on this forum.
The battery was the one I got when I purchased this bike and it was dry at the time. I had added straight tap water - from a well so it did not have as many chemicals as some utility water. Even so, one of the cells - next to the positive post as usual - always had a low specific gravity reading. It was only a matter of time.
The battery was the one I got when I purchased this bike and it was dry at the time. I had added straight tap water - from a well so it did not have as many chemicals as some utility water. Even so, one of the cells - next to the positive post as usual - always had a low specific gravity reading. It was only a matter of time.
T
tirebiter
Guest
I keep tweaking and improving "Little Suzy" A fairly remarkable alteration to the ignition timing is covered in another section of these forums but suffice it to say, she LIKES it ! A LOT !!! You can read about it if you'd like by clicking on this link :
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...tion-timing-adjustment-for-each-cylinder-pair
Tomorrow I take a frigid-air ride northward and should post some good steady-state highway cruising, fuel economy figures. I've only seen 40 + MPG once before from a long downhill ride but I have a feeling ...
Typically I am still in the 39 to barely 40 mpg range. The goal of course is to come as close to the promised land of the advertised 46 MPG as I can. With acohol blended into the fuel these days, I'll be happy to get within a few percentage points.
I'm closing in on the third thousand miles of travel since putting "Little Suzy" back into running condition, earlier this year. She has not stranded me yet except for refusing to start once, at home with a totally wasted battery.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...tion-timing-adjustment-for-each-cylinder-pair
Tomorrow I take a frigid-air ride northward and should post some good steady-state highway cruising, fuel economy figures. I've only seen 40 + MPG once before from a long downhill ride but I have a feeling ...
Typically I am still in the 39 to barely 40 mpg range. The goal of course is to come as close to the promised land of the advertised 46 MPG as I can. With acohol blended into the fuel these days, I'll be happy to get within a few percentage points.
I'm closing in on the third thousand miles of travel since putting "Little Suzy" back into running condition, earlier this year. She has not stranded me yet except for refusing to start once, at home with a totally wasted battery.
Steve
GS Whisperer
Don't fret if you don't get that "magic" 46 mpg. 40 isn't so bad, and is rather typical of some bikes, but it all depends on the tuning.
My wife's bike has had some wild variations on the same trip. Several years ago, we were with our GoldWing group, headed for West Virginia. They wanted to get to a particular restaurant before the lunch special ended (and you thought GSers were cheap
), so we were heading up the freeway at 75+ mph, into a headwind that was about 15-20 mph. She normally put her petcock on REServe at about 140 miles, but called me at about 85 miles to say she had just changed it. The next tank, she got about 95 miles. MPG figures for those two tanks were about 28 and 29. After lunch, we slowed down a bit and changed direction, she got upper-30s. The next day, we were meandering through the hills of West Virginia, Virginia and Kentucky, she got three consecutive tanks over 55 mpg, the highest was right at 59.
My bike has been a bit more consistent. I have had a few tanks in the upper 30s, but most of the time it's in the 40-43 range.
.
My wife's bike has had some wild variations on the same trip. Several years ago, we were with our GoldWing group, headed for West Virginia. They wanted to get to a particular restaurant before the lunch special ended (and you thought GSers were cheap
), so we were heading up the freeway at 75+ mph, into a headwind that was about 15-20 mph. She normally put her petcock on REServe at about 140 miles, but called me at about 85 miles to say she had just changed it. The next tank, she got about 95 miles. MPG figures for those two tanks were about 28 and 29. After lunch, we slowed down a bit and changed direction, she got upper-30s. The next day, we were meandering through the hills of West Virginia, Virginia and Kentucky, she got three consecutive tanks over 55 mpg, the highest was right at 59.My bike has been a bit more consistent. I have had a few tanks in the upper 30s, but most of the time it's in the 40-43 range.
.
T
tirebiter
Guest
It was cold this morning. When I got to my destination and took my glove/mittens off there was snow that formed from the moisture exiting my fingers !!! Encountered heavy and un-expected city traffic - stupid me for thinking Boston would be otherwise - stop-and-go for about 30 minutes at the outset of my return trip.
Managed the best fuel economy yet ... 41.5 MPG. I was in a hurry to get home so yes, I poured on the coals and did part of the journey at a steady 75 mph. I'm interested in knowing what the factory tourque and horsepower curves look like for the 850 engine. Can't find anything online. "FEELS" like anything goes but I'm sure there is an optimum RPM for good fuel economy - which I probably exceed when travelling at 75.
Happy sort of. Not yet satisfied. Maybe a tad too much advance for over 5500 RPM trips. Still thinking she needs more attention to the ignition timing curve. I don't notice the remarkable thrust above 6000 RPM like I did when the timng was reatarded significantly. Maybe just because the power at lower RPMs (1500 - 5000) is SO much better now.
Still planning some more work on her but either I need to put the Windjammer on ... or get some gauntlets for the hand grips.
Managed the best fuel economy yet ... 41.5 MPG. I was in a hurry to get home so yes, I poured on the coals and did part of the journey at a steady 75 mph. I'm interested in knowing what the factory tourque and horsepower curves look like for the 850 engine. Can't find anything online. "FEELS" like anything goes but I'm sure there is an optimum RPM for good fuel economy - which I probably exceed when travelling at 75.
Happy sort of. Not yet satisfied. Maybe a tad too much advance for over 5500 RPM trips. Still thinking she needs more attention to the ignition timing curve. I don't notice the remarkable thrust above 6000 RPM like I did when the timng was reatarded significantly. Maybe just because the power at lower RPMs (1500 - 5000) is SO much better now.
Still planning some more work on her but either I need to put the Windjammer on ... or get some gauntlets for the hand grips.
T
tirebiter
Guest
A short trip today checking on farmed-out work for an employer. I'm getting more used to riding a top-heavy 600 pound motorcycle and it was raining very heavily. Still "feeling" my way around corners in low gears and at low speed all the way, however.
At a traffic, light as I pulled away from a standstill, "Little Suzy" made the first-ever misfire. Missed one or two beats but ok, I know when an engine is trying to talk to me. Well ... at least I THINK SO.
I'm sure the rain had something to do with it but now I have every reason to go through the entire ignition circuit(s) looking for compromised electrical connections. IT WAS POURING rain when this happened, but I bet Suzuki engineers designed their macines to cope with even worse weather conditions.
At a traffic, light as I pulled away from a standstill, "Little Suzy" made the first-ever misfire. Missed one or two beats but ok, I know when an engine is trying to talk to me. Well ... at least I THINK SO.
I'm sure the rain had something to do with it but now I have every reason to go through the entire ignition circuit(s) looking for compromised electrical connections. IT WAS POURING rain when this happened, but I bet Suzuki engineers designed their macines to cope with even worse weather conditions.
T
tirebiter
Guest
Heard an unfamilair "crunch ... crunch ... crunch" as I was slowing to a stop. Not everytime but significant when it was there. Eventually the speedometer needle dropped to zero and remained there. Trip ododmeter was stuck at 30 miles. Several gas tankfuls later, I finally had a chance to see exactly what broke.
As luck would have it, I found a spare speedometer drive gearbox in the spare parts bin that came with the bike when I bought it. I didn't even know I had it when I was doing a search and making please and posting in the "parts wanted" forum on this site. I had been offered a fork set with the speedo drive - shipping costs would have been very unfavorable. I was offered a rebuild service with new gears for a give-away price.
I wanted to make sure what was wrong before sending my gearbox off to get a rebuild. I mean, I had not even checked the cable yet. All I knew was the crunching sound had stopped as did the speedo. So, I have it apart and here are a couple of photos :
I noticed the slotted nut went on too far after I put the axle back into place. A quick look online at a parts blowup showed me there is s
supposed to be a flat washer underneath the slotted nut. It's missing on my "Little Suzy" ! The cotter pin engages the slots in the nut but just barely. I also noticed the front axle was put in backwards ! Right to left instead of left to right. AHA ! Maybe this is why the speedo drive washer failed.
When the axle was put in it could have damaged the speedo drive washer. The flat washer that goes under the circlip took a beating too. At least I have a working speedometer again. I'm aiming to roll on until the odometer reads 33,333, miles before 2015. Now, it looks like I might make it.
Happy Holidays everyone.
As luck would have it, I found a spare speedometer drive gearbox in the spare parts bin that came with the bike when I bought it. I didn't even know I had it when I was doing a search and making please and posting in the "parts wanted" forum on this site. I had been offered a fork set with the speedo drive - shipping costs would have been very unfavorable. I was offered a rebuild service with new gears for a give-away price.
I wanted to make sure what was wrong before sending my gearbox off to get a rebuild. I mean, I had not even checked the cable yet. All I knew was the crunching sound had stopped as did the speedo. So, I have it apart and here are a couple of photos :
I noticed the slotted nut went on too far after I put the axle back into place. A quick look online at a parts blowup showed me there is s
supposed to be a flat washer underneath the slotted nut. It's missing on my "Little Suzy" ! The cotter pin engages the slots in the nut but just barely. I also noticed the front axle was put in backwards ! Right to left instead of left to right. AHA ! Maybe this is why the speedo drive washer failed.
When the axle was put in it could have damaged the speedo drive washer. The flat washer that goes under the circlip took a beating too. At least I have a working speedometer again. I'm aiming to roll on until the odometer reads 33,333, miles before 2015. Now, it looks like I might make it.
Happy Holidays everyone.
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T
tirebiter
Guest
I'm back like a bad penny with an update. Nothing to ask except what I'm trying to figure out in the tires forum. Little Suzy has gone more than 30,000 miles with me on her ... since August 2014. The clock is showing over 59,000 now. Stranded exactly twice due to running out of gas. Unbelievably reliable in spite of all my poor maintenance and jury-rigged fixes
I'm still putting off installing relays after my "fun with stator re-winding" episode that lasted a few weeks early this past summer. Ended up putting in a a new stator ... supposedly "high output" and an old crusty used series type regulater/rectifier from a snowmobile as suggested can do the job by so many on this forum.
Occasionally, I worry that my wired up float pivot mounting post will let go. Eventually I'll get around to doing soemthing about the feul petcock. I put in a manual shutoff but forget to turn it off about 25% of the tiem. Of course the oil is not in the best shape now and often it takes a while to start her up when I do that. it eevn seems to hydro-lock a couple of tiems when I first try to start the engine. Poor starter. Poor Little Suzy. I count myself lucky in that nobody has come to take her away from me due to negligence.
A screw that holds the tach face in place fell out of it's hole. It's trapped, laying in the bottom of the tach between the tach face and the glass fortunately. The tach sticks a little at low RPM. Another project waiting for my attention.
I lost the second right side cover a few weeks ago. Something was rubbing on the bottom of my thigh on a very windy stretch of highway one day. I didn't realize what until way to late.
I changed the oil once but not the filter. Keep adding oil since there is a small leak or two and I think it probably burns some although I never see any smoke from the tailpipe. I have a new filter and I keep buying oil but ... it's all gone before I get a chance to drain out the old oil and pull the filter. The 4 into 1 exhaust system makes it difficult to drain the oil without making a big mess on the pipes.
Occasionally the engine would just stop running. Usually while idling at a light. Would not turn over on the starter button although the igniton and oil lights would be on. Turns out flipping the starter switch on and off a few times would get me going again. Kept re-occuring for about a month while it was really hot out but it hasn't happened for a while now.
Everything was staus quo for at least a few more weeks and then the headlight low beam would turn off. Flipping the hi-lo beam switch several times worked to get it to go back on. It seems to have stopped happening for a week or two now.
I've replaced and realigned the front brake light switch several times but it doesn't want to stay fixed. Brake lights only work on the rear brake for sevral months now. This has plagued Little Suzy almost fom day one after I started using her over two years ago. Not sure what else I can do except make sure I use the rear brake everytime I pull on the front one. Hmm, maybe I should post a question about it on the braking forum. Think I'll do just that. I'll head over the that forum as soon as I'm done here, in case anyone is interested.
All-in all, I am pleased with this old Suzuki. Happy that I got this machine when I did and especially grateful for all the good advice and help from everyone who contributes on here. Heading into the cold season up here in new England, I will be rolling on the miles as usual but I still do NOT go out if the roads are wet or snow covered during freezing temperatures. Although, last Winter I discovered I can actually drive on snow and ice but it's not something I want to at anything above a crawl.
I'm still putting off installing relays after my "fun with stator re-winding" episode that lasted a few weeks early this past summer. Ended up putting in a a new stator ... supposedly "high output" and an old crusty used series type regulater/rectifier from a snowmobile as suggested can do the job by so many on this forum.
Occasionally, I worry that my wired up float pivot mounting post will let go. Eventually I'll get around to doing soemthing about the feul petcock. I put in a manual shutoff but forget to turn it off about 25% of the tiem. Of course the oil is not in the best shape now and often it takes a while to start her up when I do that. it eevn seems to hydro-lock a couple of tiems when I first try to start the engine. Poor starter. Poor Little Suzy. I count myself lucky in that nobody has come to take her away from me due to negligence.
A screw that holds the tach face in place fell out of it's hole. It's trapped, laying in the bottom of the tach between the tach face and the glass fortunately. The tach sticks a little at low RPM. Another project waiting for my attention.
I lost the second right side cover a few weeks ago. Something was rubbing on the bottom of my thigh on a very windy stretch of highway one day. I didn't realize what until way to late.
I changed the oil once but not the filter. Keep adding oil since there is a small leak or two and I think it probably burns some although I never see any smoke from the tailpipe. I have a new filter and I keep buying oil but ... it's all gone before I get a chance to drain out the old oil and pull the filter. The 4 into 1 exhaust system makes it difficult to drain the oil without making a big mess on the pipes.
Occasionally the engine would just stop running. Usually while idling at a light. Would not turn over on the starter button although the igniton and oil lights would be on. Turns out flipping the starter switch on and off a few times would get me going again. Kept re-occuring for about a month while it was really hot out but it hasn't happened for a while now.
Everything was staus quo for at least a few more weeks and then the headlight low beam would turn off. Flipping the hi-lo beam switch several times worked to get it to go back on. It seems to have stopped happening for a week or two now.
I've replaced and realigned the front brake light switch several times but it doesn't want to stay fixed. Brake lights only work on the rear brake for sevral months now. This has plagued Little Suzy almost fom day one after I started using her over two years ago. Not sure what else I can do except make sure I use the rear brake everytime I pull on the front one. Hmm, maybe I should post a question about it on the braking forum. Think I'll do just that. I'll head over the that forum as soon as I'm done here, in case anyone is interested.
All-in all, I am pleased with this old Suzuki. Happy that I got this machine when I did and especially grateful for all the good advice and help from everyone who contributes on here. Heading into the cold season up here in new England, I will be rolling on the miles as usual but I still do NOT go out if the roads are wet or snow covered during freezing temperatures. Although, last Winter I discovered I can actually drive on snow and ice but it's not something I want to at anything above a crawl.
I wonder how much better it would run if you did the regular maintenance on it
T
tirebiter
Guest
Cowboy, It might run better with more maintenance but before I put the Vetter fairing and windshield on, the 850 was getting 45 miles per gallon just about every tank. Now I'm getting about 44 mpg just about every tank ... except when I forget to close the fuel petcock and it sits overnight. My typical drive consists of about half highway 65-75 mph and 1/4 back country roads and 1/4 city. She starts easily except those times when the fuel has flooded the spark plugs. I take the engine up close to redline a couple of times every week to blow out the carbon.
I have made idle mixture adjustments and synched the throttles at idle about 2-3 times each year, so far. Usually when the weather gets significantly colder or hotter. I'm still running the same spark plugs that were in it when I bought the bike in August of 2014. I bought new ones to put in right away but the "old" ones still look almost new.
Not sure how much better I can make it run. Planning to someday put relays on to protect most switches and to drive the coils. I'm sure that will help some. The day after writing my last entry to this log, the other tach face screw fell out. Now I will HAVE to fix that. The dial is rotating back and forth with the needle and I am one of those who checks the engine RPM and idle speed constantly, while driving.
Not sure what type of regular maintenance schedule the "check tightness of tach face screws" falls under.
I have made idle mixture adjustments and synched the throttles at idle about 2-3 times each year, so far. Usually when the weather gets significantly colder or hotter. I'm still running the same spark plugs that were in it when I bought the bike in August of 2014. I bought new ones to put in right away but the "old" ones still look almost new.
Not sure how much better I can make it run. Planning to someday put relays on to protect most switches and to drive the coils. I'm sure that will help some. The day after writing my last entry to this log, the other tach face screw fell out. Now I will HAVE to fix that. The dial is rotating back and forth with the needle and I am one of those who checks the engine RPM and idle speed constantly, while driving.
Not sure what type of regular maintenance schedule the "check tightness of tach face screws" falls under.
G
Guest
Guest
"Unbelievably reliable in spite of all my poor maintenance and jury-rigged fixes"
30,000 miles and no oil filter change and I'd bet no valves clearances checked. Too cheap to change out the plugs because the other ones look good and you probably need a full carb rebuild as well.
"I take the engine up close to redline a couple of times every week to blow out the carbon"
Your kidding right? Close to redline sometimes? Sounds like you probably lug this around like an old tractor. These engines operate best in the higher RPM zones try and get their much more often.
30,000 miles and no oil filter change and I'd bet no valves clearances checked. Too cheap to change out the plugs because the other ones look good and you probably need a full carb rebuild as well.
"I take the engine up close to redline a couple of times every week to blow out the carbon"
Your kidding right? Close to redline sometimes? Sounds like you probably lug this around like an old tractor. These engines operate best in the higher RPM zones try and get their much more often.
How about the oil changes and valve adjustments required to maintain an almost 37 year old motorcycle?
You have shown the quality of the GS engine, as your bike is still running despite its owner.
Give it some love and it will love you back for a long time.
Give it some love and it will love you back for a long time.
T
tirebiter
Guest
ok a correction :
I guess I forgot to mention I did change the oil and filter in 2014 some time and miles after originally purchasing Little Suzy that August. I changed the oil but not the filter once more, about a year ago.
I also checked the valve clearances and had several of the shims precision ground to get everything within tolerance. None needed more than a few "ten thousandths" of an inch (0.0002-0.0003") removed, so I was not worried about going throug any case hardening they might have when new. Also I had them ground on only one side and I put that side towards the valve.
I also had the carbs off several times to change the jetting (THAT took a while to get right) and make sure they were clean and would work ok. Had to take them off once, since. When I fist looked inside, one of the carbs had a siezed float pivot pin which I had left and so never was able to clean the screen above the needle and seat assembly. Well, of course after about 10,000 miles of riding, it clogged up enough that I had to do something about it. Exactly as promised by everyone who told me it would, when I 1st joined this forum.
For those interested, the symptoms were exhibited only after driving at a constant highway speed long enough. there would be a slight but noticeable lack of power. one cylinder would start being weak due to leaning out as the fuel level in the float bowl would get lower and lower. After it got worse - remember I usually do not fix things right away but instead keep driving her day after day after day - I had to remove the carbs and get the seized float hinge pin out, somehow. Before I got to it, the clog got so bad, there would be a VERY audible missing at all RPMS that would go away if I slowed down and used less throttle. Good thing I knew well enough to not push the engine under those circumstances. Lucky I didn't burn a valve ...
As it turned out, I didn't do a good job. I broke the float pin support tower. I should have removed the cbales and put the carb rack in a vise to fix it. Too bad for me that I had forgotten how stuck the pin was. Ended up wiring it back together and by some stroek of magic, it is still holding although I keep my eye out for a replacement carb. Even if one with a broken support so that I can make a permanent repair. Trying to do it without taking the bike out of service ... in case I really screw up the carb that has been jury-rigged. Again, what's important to me is that I can keep riding the bike and for now I can, even with the wired-in piece that broke off. Actually for the past year like this.
I bought this bike specifically as a commuter. She's not a pleasure vehicle that would see only weekend use. To that end, I have done very little maintenance and I'm sure at some point I will have some regrets. For now however, it has shown to be a remarkable 37 year old transport. I do at tiems just go out for a joyride and so far, Little Suzy delivers on that also - in spades.
I agree, if I took better care of her, she'd maybe get better fuel economy and I'm sure would probably have an extended life. If things work out, I'll ride this thing until it's done. Hopefully before I'm done. I'll keep posting on here and hopefully not upsetting too many good folks in regards to my lacky style of bike ownership. Any bets on how far she'll take me ?
Meanwhile i keep looking for a 6-speed GS 550 - always trying to avoid fuel costs. To that end, I have an electric bicycle and am considering somehow making that into my new commuter.
NEJEFF, I utilize extremly low RPM while in stop and go traffic. It's nice and quiet that way. While in moderate to heavy traffic I usually shift up, anywhere from 3000 to about 4500 RPM. It depends on prevailing speed limit and how badly I want to stay ahead of other vehicles (or not) etc. By myself, no traffic, it depends. Sometimes I go real easy with the RPMs, shifting low around 3000 or lower, every shift. When I'm in a hurry, it's as high as 5500 regularly. The noise changes so radically when opening the throttles and using higher RPMs and I don't really want people who live on my commuter routes, to start hating motorcycles.
I guess I forgot to mention I did change the oil and filter in 2014 some time and miles after originally purchasing Little Suzy that August. I changed the oil but not the filter once more, about a year ago.
I also checked the valve clearances and had several of the shims precision ground to get everything within tolerance. None needed more than a few "ten thousandths" of an inch (0.0002-0.0003") removed, so I was not worried about going throug any case hardening they might have when new. Also I had them ground on only one side and I put that side towards the valve.
I also had the carbs off several times to change the jetting (THAT took a while to get right) and make sure they were clean and would work ok. Had to take them off once, since. When I fist looked inside, one of the carbs had a siezed float pivot pin which I had left and so never was able to clean the screen above the needle and seat assembly. Well, of course after about 10,000 miles of riding, it clogged up enough that I had to do something about it. Exactly as promised by everyone who told me it would, when I 1st joined this forum.
For those interested, the symptoms were exhibited only after driving at a constant highway speed long enough. there would be a slight but noticeable lack of power. one cylinder would start being weak due to leaning out as the fuel level in the float bowl would get lower and lower. After it got worse - remember I usually do not fix things right away but instead keep driving her day after day after day - I had to remove the carbs and get the seized float hinge pin out, somehow. Before I got to it, the clog got so bad, there would be a VERY audible missing at all RPMS that would go away if I slowed down and used less throttle. Good thing I knew well enough to not push the engine under those circumstances. Lucky I didn't burn a valve ...
As it turned out, I didn't do a good job. I broke the float pin support tower. I should have removed the cbales and put the carb rack in a vise to fix it. Too bad for me that I had forgotten how stuck the pin was. Ended up wiring it back together and by some stroek of magic, it is still holding although I keep my eye out for a replacement carb. Even if one with a broken support so that I can make a permanent repair. Trying to do it without taking the bike out of service ... in case I really screw up the carb that has been jury-rigged. Again, what's important to me is that I can keep riding the bike and for now I can, even with the wired-in piece that broke off. Actually for the past year like this.
I bought this bike specifically as a commuter. She's not a pleasure vehicle that would see only weekend use. To that end, I have done very little maintenance and I'm sure at some point I will have some regrets. For now however, it has shown to be a remarkable 37 year old transport. I do at tiems just go out for a joyride and so far, Little Suzy delivers on that also - in spades.
I agree, if I took better care of her, she'd maybe get better fuel economy and I'm sure would probably have an extended life. If things work out, I'll ride this thing until it's done. Hopefully before I'm done. I'll keep posting on here and hopefully not upsetting too many good folks in regards to my lacky style of bike ownership. Any bets on how far she'll take me ?
Meanwhile i keep looking for a 6-speed GS 550 - always trying to avoid fuel costs. To that end, I have an electric bicycle and am considering somehow making that into my new commuter.
NEJEFF, I utilize extremly low RPM while in stop and go traffic. It's nice and quiet that way. While in moderate to heavy traffic I usually shift up, anywhere from 3000 to about 4500 RPM. It depends on prevailing speed limit and how badly I want to stay ahead of other vehicles (or not) etc. By myself, no traffic, it depends. Sometimes I go real easy with the RPMs, shifting low around 3000 or lower, every shift. When I'm in a hurry, it's as high as 5500 regularly. The noise changes so radically when opening the throttles and using higher RPMs and I don't really want people who live on my commuter routes, to start hating motorcycles.
T
tirebiter
Guest
The cold and wet went away for about a day and Little Suzy fired right up. Had been sitting unused for a week or so at least. Still as amazing to me as ever.
It's been a while since my last update so I figured a little more now and maybe some more later. Those who have been following this saga may remember the front wheel/fork/suspension instability or scary wobble I was getting with the new tires, last year. It almost completely went away slowly or I got used to it.
A month or so ago, the speedo stopped working. I translated RPMs in my head to keep to a reasonable speed for a while. Then the tachometer stopped working as well. I need to revisit that. I had it apart several months ago to reattach the face. Boths screws had backed out. I'm not sure I got the top sqouzed back on all the way correctly. It worked fine for a while until I needed it most.
So what did I do ? I looked into why the speedo was dead. I had removed the front wheel sometime last Sumemr because the front fender was rubbing on the tire occasionally. I drove it for a few months trying to decipher what the intermittant grinding noise/feeling was from, before discovering the reason. I ended up peening over the rivets that attach the front fender to it's mounting bracket. They had been loose a LONG time and eventually got loose enough to make the intermittant noise less intermittant and almost constant before I could figure it out.
The occasionally sudden jerk and loud "ping" noise had finally ceased also. From day one, it seemed, I would occasionally pick up a piece of gravel while driving up or down my dirt driveway. The front fender sometimes would have gotten josteled loose just so, and it sometimes was close enough to the rubber that it popped the piece of gravel out of a tread groove as it came around to the back edge of the front fender. I was always thinking that small stones had been getting jammed for a brief instant into the brake calipers but could never find evidence of that when I would look for what the noise was from, exactly. The reason had eluded me ever since I started using the bike for daily transportation pretty much year-round. Somewhat of a relief to finally figure that one out. It wasn't until the front fender got loose enough that it had enough play and would rattle almost all the time, that I was able to understand.
So I thought that my work to fix the loose fender had done something to the speedometer drive. I took it off and the grease it seemed, had hardened. Now I don't keep records really but I'm pretty sure I had been into the speedo drive already in my few years of using this bike. Sure enough I realized I had used from left over stock, a BMW oil drain plug aluminum washer as a spacer inside the speedo drive. The aluminum washer/spacer had worn on on side, allowing the drive dogs to back out of the slots in the wheel. I probably got about 20-25,000 miles out of it so I put in another. Maybe someday when the latest one wears down for instance, I'll try to come up with a better part to go in there.
Whatever ... In putting the front wheel on, I decided I woudl look into why the front brakes seemed like the rotors were so warped. Maybe I had put them back on out of phase when I changed the tire. The front brakes always exhibited some amount of pulsation when used although they always brought the speed down quickly, whenever I needed them too. The pulsation was always most noticeable as I'd come to a complete stop, upon a mild application of the brake.
OK, so now Im at the point of this whole update. I discovered the front wheel has about 1/4" of lateral runnout !!! No idea why I never noticed it before but I'm sure it has to do with all the front end scary problems I experienced, when I put the new tires on. So now I'm in the market for a replacement front wheel and the first palce I thought of looking was in this forum. Figured while I'm here, I may as well give anyone who's interetested, an update on my continuing ownership and regular use of this 1980 GS 850 GL"T" model.
It's been a while since my last update so I figured a little more now and maybe some more later. Those who have been following this saga may remember the front wheel/fork/suspension instability or scary wobble I was getting with the new tires, last year. It almost completely went away slowly or I got used to it.
A month or so ago, the speedo stopped working. I translated RPMs in my head to keep to a reasonable speed for a while. Then the tachometer stopped working as well. I need to revisit that. I had it apart several months ago to reattach the face. Boths screws had backed out. I'm not sure I got the top sqouzed back on all the way correctly. It worked fine for a while until I needed it most.
So what did I do ? I looked into why the speedo was dead. I had removed the front wheel sometime last Sumemr because the front fender was rubbing on the tire occasionally. I drove it for a few months trying to decipher what the intermittant grinding noise/feeling was from, before discovering the reason. I ended up peening over the rivets that attach the front fender to it's mounting bracket. They had been loose a LONG time and eventually got loose enough to make the intermittant noise less intermittant and almost constant before I could figure it out.
The occasionally sudden jerk and loud "ping" noise had finally ceased also. From day one, it seemed, I would occasionally pick up a piece of gravel while driving up or down my dirt driveway. The front fender sometimes would have gotten josteled loose just so, and it sometimes was close enough to the rubber that it popped the piece of gravel out of a tread groove as it came around to the back edge of the front fender. I was always thinking that small stones had been getting jammed for a brief instant into the brake calipers but could never find evidence of that when I would look for what the noise was from, exactly. The reason had eluded me ever since I started using the bike for daily transportation pretty much year-round. Somewhat of a relief to finally figure that one out. It wasn't until the front fender got loose enough that it had enough play and would rattle almost all the time, that I was able to understand.
So I thought that my work to fix the loose fender had done something to the speedometer drive. I took it off and the grease it seemed, had hardened. Now I don't keep records really but I'm pretty sure I had been into the speedo drive already in my few years of using this bike. Sure enough I realized I had used from left over stock, a BMW oil drain plug aluminum washer as a spacer inside the speedo drive. The aluminum washer/spacer had worn on on side, allowing the drive dogs to back out of the slots in the wheel. I probably got about 20-25,000 miles out of it so I put in another. Maybe someday when the latest one wears down for instance, I'll try to come up with a better part to go in there.
Whatever ... In putting the front wheel on, I decided I woudl look into why the front brakes seemed like the rotors were so warped. Maybe I had put them back on out of phase when I changed the tire. The front brakes always exhibited some amount of pulsation when used although they always brought the speed down quickly, whenever I needed them too. The pulsation was always most noticeable as I'd come to a complete stop, upon a mild application of the brake.
OK, so now Im at the point of this whole update. I discovered the front wheel has about 1/4" of lateral runnout !!! No idea why I never noticed it before but I'm sure it has to do with all the front end scary problems I experienced, when I put the new tires on. So now I'm in the market for a replacement front wheel and the first palce I thought of looking was in this forum. Figured while I'm here, I may as well give anyone who's interetested, an update on my continuing ownership and regular use of this 1980 GS 850 GL"T" model.
T
tirebiter
Guest
I haven't updated this thread for a while so figured it's not a bad idea to keep at it as things develop.
I'm at about 68,000 miles now. Little Suzy has had a lot of time off this past year because I'm not having to drive very far for work lately and there is always plenty of parking where I've been ending up going to. I have to admit it takes a lot less work to go in a car than in weather resistant garb. Maybe i'm just getting lazy in my old age ...
The other day the starter decided to not work. I had used it several times in the past month and this happened while I was on the road. When I had a chance to, I looked at why.
Turns out, when I replaced the original fried stator winding, I relocated the starter motor wire. The wire wouldn't go as far as it is supposed to, into the cavity where the starter is. I put the connector on at almost 90 degrees to the axis of the starter motor so the wire would not be pulled tight.
What happened was the connector insulator was pushed up against the bottom of the chrome starter cover. Eventually the insulator wore through to the metal connector and contacted the chrome starter cover. In my unmistakable style I hammered a dent into the cover so it would not do that again ... all the time I was thinking to myself, this sure is a stupid design to put the connector so close to the cover like that ... and why did it take so long to screw up ... but it did the job after hammering and basically screwing up a perfectly fine starter motor cover.
Now the cover almost matches the wrinkled rear fender which I still haven't replaced after getting rear ended. Have agood used replacement rear fender and stock taillight but since Little Suzy keeps getting me around I have not spent any extra time prettying her up. I was able to push start it for a few days until I had a chance to look into the starter problem.
When I was putting the starter cover back on, I noticed how the starter wire was routed incorrectly undernath the heavy engine ground wire. THAT'S what made it too tight to fit well ! I rerouted it and then realized the connector could easily be oriented paralell to the starter motor. There was ample slack in the wire now. In no way could the connector have ever contacted the chrome starter cover ... if I had only done it right the first time.
Yet another chapter in my idiocy I call maintenance and repair for this poor beast. She sat at lest three months this winter. No cover, getting rain soaked, snow covered, freezing temperatures below zero and generally ignored. Parked just as I had left it when I got back from wherever I went, the last time I used it.
Battery still connected. A testimonial to the regulator modification this forum provided for me. When I eventually decided to go somewhere on it, she fired right up after about 2 power strokes ! What AMAZING machines these are.
I'm at about 68,000 miles now. Little Suzy has had a lot of time off this past year because I'm not having to drive very far for work lately and there is always plenty of parking where I've been ending up going to. I have to admit it takes a lot less work to go in a car than in weather resistant garb. Maybe i'm just getting lazy in my old age ...
The other day the starter decided to not work. I had used it several times in the past month and this happened while I was on the road. When I had a chance to, I looked at why.
Turns out, when I replaced the original fried stator winding, I relocated the starter motor wire. The wire wouldn't go as far as it is supposed to, into the cavity where the starter is. I put the connector on at almost 90 degrees to the axis of the starter motor so the wire would not be pulled tight.
What happened was the connector insulator was pushed up against the bottom of the chrome starter cover. Eventually the insulator wore through to the metal connector and contacted the chrome starter cover. In my unmistakable style I hammered a dent into the cover so it would not do that again ... all the time I was thinking to myself, this sure is a stupid design to put the connector so close to the cover like that ... and why did it take so long to screw up ... but it did the job after hammering and basically screwing up a perfectly fine starter motor cover.
Now the cover almost matches the wrinkled rear fender which I still haven't replaced after getting rear ended. Have agood used replacement rear fender and stock taillight but since Little Suzy keeps getting me around I have not spent any extra time prettying her up. I was able to push start it for a few days until I had a chance to look into the starter problem.
When I was putting the starter cover back on, I noticed how the starter wire was routed incorrectly undernath the heavy engine ground wire. THAT'S what made it too tight to fit well ! I rerouted it and then realized the connector could easily be oriented paralell to the starter motor. There was ample slack in the wire now. In no way could the connector have ever contacted the chrome starter cover ... if I had only done it right the first time.
Yet another chapter in my idiocy I call maintenance and repair for this poor beast. She sat at lest three months this winter. No cover, getting rain soaked, snow covered, freezing temperatures below zero and generally ignored. Parked just as I had left it when I got back from wherever I went, the last time I used it.
Battery still connected. A testimonial to the regulator modification this forum provided for me. When I eventually decided to go somewhere on it, she fired right up after about 2 power strokes ! What AMAZING machines these are.
Steve
GS Whisperer
I had the same thing happen to my wife's bike. No problems with wire routing, as yours seemed to be, but it was arcing from the starter terminal to the bottom of the cover. Hammered a dent, all is well again.
"Enhanced" cover, with enhancement highlighted:
.
N
NickyGS750
Guest
I think you guys could have just epoxied on a little high temp rubber piece under it instead of denting it down. Or has it been done before and not worked.....
T
tirebiter
Guest
Dented upwards actually Nicky.
I couldn't even figure out where it was touching or why at first. Never mind do something futuristic like a dab of epoxy.
When I initially tried to slip the rubber cover down past the eyelet, it wouldn't go. I kept working at it trying to twist it around pushing up and down but it wouldn't budge. I did see a crack in the insulation a few inches away from the eyelet which I had thought was the trouble spot. I was trying to be thorough and make sure the eyelet connector was ok, too. Good thing ...
Until I realized the damage by seeing the arc spot on the bottom of the chrome cover I was getting more confused about why the rubber eyelet cover was stuck onto the wire. Then I decided to "fix" it by beating a dent into the cover before realizing the whole picture. The rubber had melted and fused onto the yellow insulator. Once i saw the damage it all became crystal clear. Unfortunately I had already "enhanced" the cover. Oh well she's taken me another 1,000 miles since then and I'm still happy with her.
Glad to see at least someone else did the dent trick, though. Especially someone like Steve, who knows so much about these bikes. Tricky little "gotchas" everywhere on them.
I couldn't even figure out where it was touching or why at first. Never mind do something futuristic like a dab of epoxy.
When I initially tried to slip the rubber cover down past the eyelet, it wouldn't go. I kept working at it trying to twist it around pushing up and down but it wouldn't budge. I did see a crack in the insulation a few inches away from the eyelet which I had thought was the trouble spot. I was trying to be thorough and make sure the eyelet connector was ok, too. Good thing ...
Until I realized the damage by seeing the arc spot on the bottom of the chrome cover I was getting more confused about why the rubber eyelet cover was stuck onto the wire. Then I decided to "fix" it by beating a dent into the cover before realizing the whole picture. The rubber had melted and fused onto the yellow insulator. Once i saw the damage it all became crystal clear. Unfortunately I had already "enhanced" the cover. Oh well she's taken me another 1,000 miles since then and I'm still happy with her.
Glad to see at least someone else did the dent trick, though. Especially someone like Steve, who knows so much about these bikes. Tricky little "gotchas" everywhere on them.
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