Koni Shock rebuild help.

[cdnoel]

I've rebuilt a set of aluminum body Koni shocks for my GS1100E that are 11.5'' from clevis to clevis. The springs on them are green green yellow so they are 231 springs. Cleaned them very thoroughly and filled them with 80cc of 10w fork oil. Have turned the damping all the way down and they are still too stiff..... Hardly low enough damping to ride on the highway. With damping turned any harder than this they might as well be solid struts. Pre load is also set to lowest setting. I like what they have done to my ride height but if I can't get these tuned I might as well put the stockers back on till I can afford more modern shocks. Any suggestions? Was thinking I'd try 5w next but I'd like to know if this will be to hard yet?

I also have a set of steel body Koni's that are 12.5 clevis to clevis that would put the bike up to normal ride height but If I can't get the shorter ones right I'm not sure I should restore the regular length ones. The long shocks have blue blue yellow 214 springs that are slightly softer but will not interchange with the short shocks.

 

[Steve]

I have no idea what the numbers are on Konis or how they relate to actual spring rate, but if that "231" is the spring rate, it's a LOT stiffer than I would have thought to be "proper". Of course, suspension geometry will have a great effect on what rate is necessary, but I have mostly seen rates in the 95-130 (or so) range on other shocks.

I will have to do some more research to see what the actual spring rate is, but I have just installed some Konis on my 850. I have contacted IKON, who assured me that the blue, blue, red springs that I have are the stock ones. I forget what they claimed as the rate, but I am looking forward to trying them out this weekend.

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[postman_pat]

I thought the preferred oil viscosity was 5W for an Ikon/Koni rebuild (?). Where did you obtain the info to use 10W oil? Would be interested in finding out. I've just rebuilt a set of Konis (7610 series) which I'm also intending to fit and try out this weekend. I used 85ml of 5W on the advice of a local suspension shop here in Adelaide.

 

[cdnoel]

Thanks for the info. I'm thinking the springs are not the culprit as with the preload turned down I'm able to remove both sets of springs by hand. I didn't get info for the fork oil but I had 10w laying around so I used it. I had a hunch 5w would be the way to go but I didn't think 10w would make things this bad. As for the 80Ml that I used, I just measured the amount a took out and added 5Ml to that for any losses. Looks like 5w will be the way to go and I'll bump up to 85Ml this time.

As for the aluminum body ones.... They were gummed up horrible when I took them apart. Perhaps the valves are not totally clean although I soaked and blew them out many times over a three day period. I alternated carb clean spray and barrymans chem dip. If the valves from the steel body ones are identical I'll try to interchange them as they came apart much cleaner to start with. Bare ,non anodized, aluminum body suspensions are, from what I understand, defunct for this reason. I think I'll get by with them if I change the fluid annually instead of letting them gum up again. Just have to keep trying to sort the tuning....

 

[cdnoel]

is this the only parts source for these shocks or does someone have another? Perhaps in the US?

http://www.motomeccaspares.com/products/browse.php?Chunk=144

 

[Steve]

Have you tried IKON USA? :-k

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[cdnoel]

Tried Koni USA and they are out of the MC business. I'll look for IKON US on google.

 

[Guest]

lighter fluid, I think you can get suspension fluid down to 2w
also, fork oil and suspension fluid, are different formulations

 

[Steve]

I'll look for IKON US on google.

I gave you the link in post #6. :-\\\

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