LED Signals Am I On The Right Track?

[cp___32]

Just a few more days till my solid state power box arrives so I thought I'd get out and tackle a project that's been on hold for a while.

I picked up some of these a little while ago and am installing them all around (4 total):
http://www.bigrigchromeshop.com/led-inch-single-face-light-reflector-p-7369.html#.VXTPHFJ9Xz4

As I hooked each light up, I would reconnect the battery, turn the signal on and make sure the light came on. I understand that since they're LEDs I'll need either a load resistor or possibly the flasher unit from NAPA (The 552 model), so when I hit the flasher function it was no shock whatsoever that they didn't flash and instead stayed solid.

What's got me confused is that when I had 3 lights installed, I'd turn on the left flasher, and the left lights would come on solid. When I hit the right (which had 1 LED and one remaining stock signal) the right would come on solid. Once the final LED was installed, when I toggle the flashers on (either direction) all 4 lights come on solid. I figure that will probably get sorted out once I get the proper electrical hardware installed to compensate for the LEDs but I did want to make sure I am on the right track and didn't screw something up.

Also, considering these are LED units and not bulbs installed into the factory housings, does anyone have a suggestion on which route to go with the load resistor/flasher unit quandary?

Either way I've got to order some parts.

Any/all help appreciated.
Thanks

 

[cowboyup3371]

Do you have each of them grounded to a bolt or other point nearby?

 

[cp___32]

The original signals were grounded to the stud on one end and to the black/white wire on the other. Since the new signals are two wire, I connected the positive to the turn signal wire, and the negative to the black/white wire. For the fronts I simply used a bullet connector and plugged in where the ground straps for the original signals hooked up. In the case of the rears, I cut the b/w wire as it ran along the top of the fender underneath the seat, added a bullet connector to either end and connected them up that way. I also made sure to use shielded connectors and swapped the male/female connections from left to right to ensure that when working on it in the future I can't accidentally swap the left and right wires by accident.

Like I said, it wasn't until the final factory light was removed that all the lights would come on. I've tried disconnecting each of the lights, one at a time and when I do that the remaining three lights come on for either signal direction.

 

[posplayr]

The original signals were grounded to the stud on one end and to the black/white wire on the other. Since the new signals are two wire, I connected the positive to the turn signal wire, and the negative to the black/white wire. For the fronts I simply used a bullet connector and plugged in where the ground straps for the original signals hooked up. In the case of the rears, I cut the b/w wire as it ran along the top of the fender underneath the seat, added a bullet connector to either end and connected them up that way. I also made sure to use shielded connectors and swapped the male/female connections from left to right to ensure that when working on it in the future I can't accidentally swap the left and right wires by accident.

Like I said, it wasn't until the final factory light was removed that all the lights would come on. I've tried disconnecting each of the lights, one at a time and when I do that the remaining three lights come on for either signal direction.

Hopefully you will have a Series R/R so the reduced load does not burn the stator. Also once you get the LED flasher all of the lights will work no matter the combination.

 

[Steve]

Once again, we are going to have to GENTLY ask the new guy, ... WHAT BIKE ARE WE TALKING ABOUT???

Yes, it matters.

If your turn signal indicator on the instrument panel is a single bulb, you will have to add a couple of diodes to it, as it is just acting like a solid wire, conducting current to the signals on the other side, no matter which side you have activated.

.

 

[cp___32]

My apologies. I thought I had the details in my signature. It might have disappeared since they switched to the new site.

It's a 1980 GS 550 L

Most of the electrics on it are new. I put in a stator from RM Stator, have a new R/R from Electrosport, a Dyna S ignition and Stock coils. Not sure if that qualifies as a "Series R/R" but I sure hope so. I don't like the idea of burning up parts. The previous owner of my Vulcan dubbed it a rectum fryer after he cooked it on a long trip and it nearly melted the seat.

I had been thinking of doing the LED gauge light upgrade at some point. Would it be worth while tackling that all at once instead of adding a diode and then eventually changing to LEDs? Would the LED (since it is a diode after all) for the turn signal indicator do the trick for that end of things? Then I can install the flasher unit and be all good, is my hope.

 

[posplayr]

My apologies. I thought I had the details in my signature. It might have disappeared since they switched to the new site.

It's a 1980 GS 550 L

Most of the electrics on it are new. I put in a stator from RM Stator, have a new R/R from Electrosport, a Dyna S ignition and Stock coils. Not sure if that qualifies as a "Series R/R" but I sure hope so. I don't like the idea of burning up parts. The previous owner of my Vulcan dubbed it a rectum fryer after he cooked it on a long trip and it nearly melted the seat.

I had been thinking of doing the LED gauge light upgrade at some point. Would it be worth while tackling that all at once instead of adding a diode and then eventually changing to LEDs? Would the LED (since it is a diode after all) for the turn signal indicator do the trick for that end of things? Then I can install the flasher unit and be all good, is my hope.

The R/R from Electrosport is a bad idea; get rid of it and get an SH-775. If you do LED's with the Electrosport you will stress your stator.

 

[cp___32]

Alright, here's an update. Please bear with me.

I've got my LED flashers fitted. Got my Solid State Power Box working. As part of the check to see if my fault detection still worked after the mod, I grounded one of the leads on the flashers. When I did that I was taken aback by how fantastic the flashers worked and how awesome they looked. They were super bright, and there was no feedback to the opposite side like I had been getting.

I did some reading and thanks to the LED flasher post by GS(X)400 I went to my local electric supply shoppe, got a pair of 1N5401 diodes. I installed them as per the instructions (one on each lead just before the indicator bulb on the cluster, tied both together after the diodes and connected that lead to the green wire, connected the black side of the bulb to ground using the B/W wire coming from the headlight).

When I hit the turn signals they did indeed function properly and there was no bleed through to the opposite signals. The problem I have is that they aren't nearly as crisp as I had hoped. They don't turn off entirely on the off cycle of the flash and I'm not hearing the clunk of the flasher unit much at all (compared to the clear thunk when I had been testing the SSPB). I checked the battery and I have 11.2 V in it. I'm charging it overnight just to be sure and unfortunately since the bike isn't running yet I can't see how it functions with the stator going, but I was surprised to see just how little difference there was between the "on" and "off" during flashing duties. Of course when the signal is in the off position the lights are completely off.

Any thoughts? Does it sound like I did the mod correctly? Should I install some load resistors as well?

Thanks

 

[cp___32]

I charged the battery over night and tried it this morning. I can now hear the Napa turn signal relay clunk but it's still not as loud as previous. The signals are brighter but the activated side still remains illuminated even during the off section of the flasher pulse. I am worried there won't be a substantial enough difference in brightness for other drivers to take notice during the day. I would like a crisp ON/OFF if at all possible.

 

[Steve]

I am wondering if the diodes you installed might be in backwards? :-k

.

 

[cp___32]

I was worried about that as well so I was very cautious during the install. The line side of the diode is on the "output" side. So the lead closest to the cluster indicator bulb. If they were backwards wouldn't that prevent the indicator on the cluster from lighting up?

eureka! I was just thinking about if I had seen the indicator light up or not and realized I had pulled the bulb so I can see if I can find an LED to replace it with. I don't think I reinstalled the bulb during testing. Perhaps that's my issue since the bulb is used as part of the resistance load for the circuit to function properly. first thing I will do when I get home is verify the bulb is installed and recheck.

Thabks Steve

 

[cp___32]

Yup. I left the bulb on the toolbox. Popped it back in and the flashers worked perfectly.

Thanks for the help and advice

 

[Steve]

Thanks for the follow-up. :clap: :clap: :encouragement:

.

 

[cp___32]

I have another question regarding the signals and LED cluster lights.

I ordered a bunch of LEDs to replace the bulbs on both my Suzuki and Kawasaki. The wedge based bulbs for my Kawi are great. They're 5 lumens and light up just as well as the incandescent bulbs that I removed. But when it comes to the Suzuki, needless to say I'm a bit disappointed.

Here are the bulbs I ordered for the Suzuki:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...a9s-led-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-lan/2541/15/

Apparently these ones are only 3 lumens. I didn't think that they would be that dim in comparison to the 5 lumen ones. Also more importantly, I was under the impression that with the addition of the diodes and proper LED compatible flasher relay I would be able to swap my cluster bulb for an LED. When I have this bulb in it doesn't do the same job as the incandescent and so I'm back to where the flashers go dimmer/brighter/dimmer instead of a crisp on/off. SuperbrightLEDs will no doubt allow me to exchange them or I can always pick up some new ones anyway but any suggestions on what LED to go with so I can get the turn signals to work properly again?

Thanks

 

[Big Red]

Hey Everyone, I have a stock 1980 GS550L (new battery, tires, seat) I found this summer that when the headlight was on and in traffic i would signal at a light everything would dim when the signal lights came on (sometimes would even stall out) so i am thinking the stock lights are drawing to much so i was thinking of upgrading to LED signal lights this winter as it is done for the season (also lost a signal light cover on my last ride with another one broken already). would this solve my power loss issue? if yes what do i need to do this? i already need to order a new tach cable so i would order everything at the same time online parts are hard to find in Canada.

Thanks
Caleb

 

[mnferwerda]

Caleb,
I think that indicates a charging issue. Switching to LEDs is not going to help that. Go up this thread and look in posplayer signature for checking the charging system.

 

[roeme]

I found this summer that when the headlight was on and in traffic i would signal at a light everything would dim when the signal lights came on (sometimes would even stall out)

At low RPM's, there's not enough power generated, so the battery covers the rest. Results in slight dimming if the battery isn't super-fresh, or something is amiss with the generator and/or R/R, as already said. Shouldn't completely die though, if it does, most likely your R/R is on its way out. Replace it as soon as possible, or you risk damage to all kinds of eletrical components.

Source: This forum, and had the exact same symptoms, but got off light with a few burned out bulbs and damaged battery.

If you have a known good R/R, then you have to replace your stator, but if I'm not mistaken, it's not as pressing. You will need to charge your battery all the time though.