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RifRafRacing
Guest
On Bob Beraults website,he shows lightening/turning the alternator rotor. Has anyone done this,how much weight/diameter do you remove,will this disturb the balance of the crank? thanks, Steve
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Re: lightened alternator
For an all out racing machine, there is no need to have a stator or rotor.
The rotor is balanced,so if you turn it down it will still be balanced. I doubt you could lathe more than two or three ounces off of it. Hardly worth the effort and expense. It would be more effective to remove the charging system, starter clutch and starter altogether to save weight, Use an aux external starting system.
Earl
For an all out racing machine, there is no need to have a stator or rotor.
The rotor is balanced,so if you turn it down it will still be balanced. I doubt you could lathe more than two or three ounces off of it. Hardly worth the effort and expense. It would be more effective to remove the charging system, starter clutch and starter altogether to save weight, Use an aux external starting system.
Earl
RifRafRacing said:
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RifRafRacing
Guest
alternator rotor
alternator rotor
Thanks Earl,I have the covers off to polish them,and was curious about this procedure.This is a street bike,needs charge/start gear.
alternator rotor
Thanks Earl,I have the covers off to polish them,and was curious about this procedure.This is a street bike,needs charge/start gear.
Re: lightened alternator
If you lighten the rotating mass, doesn't that affect torque? It will give you a quicker reving motor, which is what you want because the horsepower is in the upper rpms, no?
earlfor said:
If you lighten the rotating mass, doesn't that affect torque? It will give you a quicker reving motor, which is what you want because the horsepower is in the upper rpms, no?
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rosco15
Guest
I broke a Falicon super crank over the summer on my dragbike because of the weight of the magnets on the end of the crank. I cut mine off down to the starter gear on my dragbike. I would think any lightening would help longevity of the crank. Check out the picture of what can happen. http://www.rccracing.com/101_0134.jpg
RacingJake
Forum Sage
I was thinking of removing the rotor but leaving the starter clutch and all that stuff on for electric start. Just pull the rotor off, drill out the rivets and pull the magnet assy off, slap it all back together with 3 HD bolts and nuts and I should be good to go.................I think...........Right........... or would .041 safteywire be better?
Jake
Jake
A
Anonymous
Guest
rosco15 said:
That looks painful & expensive!
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Hoomgar
Guest
rosco15 said:
Ouch!
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rosco15
Guest
Jake, I left the bottom part of the magnet assembly. I had it cut off on a lathe. I was afraid that if I totally removed all of the rotor I wouldn't have much for the three bolts to thread into.
P
Paul
Guest
rosco15 said:
I've seen cranks go in exactly the same plae which have had the lot removed, the lot being rotor, starter assy even the cover being replaced with a flat plate.
I think it is to do with the balance of the crank, but I'm only guessing.
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rosco15
Guest
Falicon said the left end is the #2 weakest point on the crank. #1 problem is twisting. That crank I broke was welded, polished, balanced, and trued by falicon. It was out of a 1980 and they referred to it as having a hollow left end. Something about an oil hole that runs thru it weakening it. I guess suzuki modified the problem thru the years and eventually fixed it in 83 when they went to the big left end. My crank now is also out of an 80 but I had them put a billet left end on it.
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Anonymous
Guest
I make a belt driven alternator setup that cures left end breakage.
Tested on Godzuki and Brad Mummerts GS, the quickest and fastest GS streetbike on the planet (7.75@192)
No failures
NoBars@aol.com
Tested on Godzuki and Brad Mummerts GS, the quickest and fastest GS streetbike on the planet (7.75@192)
No failures
NoBars@aol.com
