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Longer shocks for a Shaftie

  • Thread starter Thread starter dakinejb
  • Start date Start date
D

dakinejb

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I have searched for a few days and I am not searching the right thing or it?s not out there. So the question is has any one put longer rear shocks on a shaft driven bike? I see that Progressive has the stock 13", 13.5", and 14.25" length shocks with the same spring rate. I currently have the fork a half inch up in the triples for better turn in. I am thinking of raising them back up to stock height and getting the 14.25" rear shocks I just don?t know how much travel the shaft has. My other option would be to leave the forks the half inch in the triples and go with the 13.5" shocks. Suggestions?
 
Why do you feel you need to raise the bike?

If you go too much farther, you will have to lengthen the kickstand, too, or carry around a board to put under the kickstand. :-k

.
 
I also am interested in raising the 850 and 1000G a bit.
They are too low for spirited riding or just seem to be too low compared to my E models.
I was at least going to add some padding to the seats.

Daniel
 
Turn in. The bike is very far from stock, all kind of parts on it from random bikes. I will put a longer kick stand on it (dirtbike) and take the center standoff once I decide on rear sets. I know a G is not the ideal bike to squeeze performance out of but it was dirt cheap so this is what I doing this summer.
 
Turn in. The bike is very far from stock, all kind of parts on it from random bikes. I will put a longer kick stand on it (dirtbike) and take the center standoff once I decide on rear sets. I know a G is not the ideal bike to squeeze performance out of ?????but it was dirt cheap so this is what I doing this summer.

I guess you're right if you want crotch rocket squid performance. The G is a road bike and a real good handling road bike with just a little fine tuning. No, it doesn't measure up to modern bikes, but then again, it's not a modern bike. The bikes from the '60s don't measure up to the '80s bikes either.
JMHO being voiced here, don't take offense.
 
I tried to make my dad’s sit down mower faster when I was 12. Put a splitfire plug with a wide gap and race gas in it. It did nothing for performance but planted a seed in me.
My first car was a 71 VW square back my parents thought it would be a good first car. I put a worked Porsche 914 flat 6 in it and was hazing my tires for a half a block.
Then I got a 65 falcon from my aunt with a straight 6 and I did this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxRgf3s7dVI.
Now I got this G for $200 and I want it to go faster and turn quicker and stop shorter.
I know it’s not for everyone, but hey some people say cucumbers taste better pickled.
 
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I wouldn't go with the 14.25" shocks -- I don't know for sure what angle the driveshaft u-joints can tolerate, but I'd rather not be the one to find out the hard way. Perhaps you can locate some engineering standards for simple u-joints and do some measuring -- they might be fine.

I have also very seriously pondered the 13.5" shocks for a different reason -- it would become possible to remove the rear wheel without dropping the shocks, since the axle would then clear the exhausts. If you keep the centerstand, you'd need to extend the feet or use the centerstand on a board.

Don't listen to the haters -- shafties handle a LOT better and are a LOT faster than most people think. If you know what you're doing. :twistedevil:

Also, Avon RoadRider tires quicken turn-in quite a lot. Try a set if you haven't already.

I can't say I'd want to drop the forks at all, either -- it may not be worth the reduction in cornering clearance.

For the very best handling, there are far better shocks available than Progressives -- Ikons, for example, are reasonably priced.
 
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What is the stock height asks the person who is too lazy to look that fact up himself??

I lowered my forks in the clamps just to see what happened as well. I wasn't impressed. I did, however, notice a difference when I put a new Shinko 712 on the front. Seems to turn in very nicely.
 
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