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Lookout carbs, we're coming in!...(hoping for some help too!)

  • Thread starter Thread starter Chuckster
  • Start date Start date
C

Chuckster

Guest
Okay guys, I've read and studied enough. Now it's time to put it to use. For those that would say take it to someone that knows what they are doing before I mess it up, I would only say that I paid $400 for the bike to tinker with and learn something. If I blow it up today, it's already been worth it. I'm making my way through the carb cleaning manual and have the #1 carb body soaking in Berrymans right now. I also have a new set of o-rings (and rebuild kits which I know you guys say not to use). I also have a few questions for those willing to help.

1) For all the pieces that I cannot soak in the carb dip, how do you guys clean them? See pic below for some of them. I'm talking about the float, vent "T", fuel inlet "T", throttle valve (slide), CV boot", etc. Basically, anything with plastic or rubber on it.

2) For the metal pieces that I can't fit in the Berryman's, how did you clean them? For example, the "gang" plates, choke actuation rail, idle adjustment piece.

3) See pic of fuel inlet needle valve seat assembly below. Now it has a rubber ring on it, a plastic ring and a small screen. How do you clean this one? Does the plastic screen and ring come off? If so, how do you get it off? I'm not sure right now if my o-ring kit has a new one of these either. Gotta check.

4) Pilot jet - all was going well taking apart carb #1 until I got to the pilot jet. It doesn't help that you can't see down in there very well either. I could not even find the driver slot in the top of the jet for my screwdriver. Looking with my flashlight, it looked to be all boogered up by someone else. At least, that's what I'm claiming! I know y'all are going to cringe at this, but I had to take my smallest drill bit and carefully put a small hole in the end and use my smallest bolt extractor to get it out. Now even though I have 4 sets of aftermarket rebuild kits, I intended to use the original parts as I've read these kits are not as good. So can I get another Mikuni pilot jet or am I stuck using my replacement part?

I really do appreciate any help you can provide!

After some choice words and about an hour, I got them out!
DSC_0148ac.jpg


On the operating table...
DSC_0164ac.jpg


Carb #1 broken down...
DSC_0207ac.jpg


Fuel inlet needle valve seat assembly...
DSC_0209ac.jpg
 
For the parts that you can/should not dip, use some carb cleaner spray and a toothbrush.
For larger parts or heavier deposits, use a ScotchBrite pad or some very fine steel wool to help remove the deposits.

Hopefully you got your 'carb kits' before you got the inspiration. That way you can claim ignorance and good intent.
If you got them after the o-rings, the money was just plain wasted. :oops:
Well, it was probably wasted either way, but if you don't open the kits, you might entice some other un-informed person on eBay to take them off your hands. 8-[


.
 
For the parts that you can/should not dip, use some carb cleaner spray and a toothbrush.
For larger parts or heavier deposits, use a ScotchBrite pad or some very fine steel wool to help remove the deposits.

Hopefully you got your 'carb kits' before you got the inspiration. That way you can claim ignorance and good intent.
If you got them after the o-rings, the money was just plain wasted. :oops:
Well, it was probably wasted either way, but if you don't open the kits, you might entice some other un-informed person on eBay to take them off your hands. 8-[


.

Hey Steve, thanks for the response. Actually, the kits came with the bike so I didn't buy them. Do you have any ideas on #3 and #4 of my questions?

Also, do you clean the CV boot and slide or do you leave them alone? That rubber boot looks pretty sensitive.

Thanks
 
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Robert Barr's o-ring kit included new o-rings for the float seat so you can remove that old one. To clean, use spray carb cleaner. You want to look inside at the seat area to make sure there is not any wear, also no wear on the needle itself.

Not sure what to suggest about getting the pilot jet out. Left hand drill bits are common method but you might want to look for a expert in your area.

Good luck.
 
hey Chuckster,

I am in Lawrenceville, GA and am about to tear down my carbs on my 1980 GS550L. We should get together an compare notes.
 
Robert Barr's o-ring kit included new o-rings for the float seat so you can remove that old one. To clean, use spray carb cleaner. You want to look inside at the seat area to make sure there is not any wear, also no wear on the needle itself.

Not sure what to suggest about getting the pilot jet out. Left hand drill bits are common method but you might want to look for a expert in your area.

Good luck.

Hey Nessism, thanks for the response. How about the brown looking plastic ring and screen on the fuel inlet needle valve seat assembly (see pic above)? Do they come off? If so, how? Didn't want to break that plastic ring with some plyers or something!

I got the pilot jet out with a bolt extractor. :-D

Got any idea where to get genuine Mikuni pilot jet replacements? And are they expensive? Like I said before, I have 4 kits that came with the bike, but I was trying not to use them. I may depending on how expensive replacements are!
 
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hey Chuckster,

I am in Lawrenceville, GA and am about to tear down my carbs on my 1980 GS550L. We should get together an compare notes.

Hey Tuvalox, you are on the other side of town from me. I'm in Marietta.

I'd be glad to compare notes and share anything I've learned from this process with you.

I'll keep in touch! :-D
 
Pilot jets are sold by dealers or on-line at the usual places - bikebandit.com, flat out cycle, motogrid, alpha sports, ect. Considering you already have the jet kits, I'd just use a pilot out of one of the kits.

The screen is press-fit onto the seat but I'd be afraid to pull it off since it may crack. Just spray it real good and look inside to make sure it's clean.
 
Pilot jets are sold by dealers or on-line at the usual places - bikebandit.com, flat out cycle, motogrid, alpha sports, ect. Considering you already have the jet kits, I'd just use a pilot out of one of the kits.

The screen is press-fit onto the seat but I'd be afraid to pull it off since it may crack. Just spray it real good and look inside to make sure it's clean.

Thanks!

I see from your sig line, you sold your 1981 GS550. That was a beauty. You got a 1982 (recent?) that you're redoing now?
 
The screens come off with a small flat (standard) screw driver.

If you have no reason to take them off; I'd leave them on.

I too have buggered up pilot jets from a PO and ordered four new for 5.60 a piece OEM at prosourcemotorsports.com

I put the carb body in the Berryman?s for 30 mins and as I was pulling the carb out I swished them up and down a bit.

I then threw the body in a bucket of hot soapy water and swished the carb around in there before I blew it dry with shop air.

As far as cleaning the slides, I used a bit of carb dip on a shop rag and whipped the parts down and cleaned them that way.

A used tooth brush works well to help remove any stubborn goo. Be sure to clean the carb bore as well with a tooth brush after the dip before cleansing with soap.

Also ensure that all orafices are free and clear!
 
Hey Nessism, thanks for the response. How about the brown looking plastic ring and screen on the fuel inlet needle valve seat assembly (see pic above)? Do they come off? If so, how? Didn't want to break that plastic ring with some plyers or something!

I got the pilot jet out with a bolt extractor. :-D

Got any idea where to get genuine Mikuni pilot jet replacements? And are they expensive? Like I said before, I have 4 kits that came with the bike, but I was trying not to use them. I may depending on how expensive replacements are!

Chuckster,

I soaked my fuel inlet needle valve assembly in the carb cleaner and it did fine. I am not telling you to do the same, just letting you know what I did. With the pilot jet replacements. I bought mine at www.bikebandit.com. They were in the same condition as yours. Someone down the line had messed with them and tore the heads up a bit. i used my small bolt extractor to pull them out, it was easy. I am replacing all four; I think $6.00 a piece. Since you have the kit you should compare the pilot jet with one you puled out. Are there any differences?

Cory
 
The screens come off with a small flat (standard) screw driver.

If you have no reason to take them off; I'd leave them on.

I too have buggered up pilot jets from a PO and ordered four new for 5.60 a piece OEM at prosourcemotorsports.com

I put the carb body in the Berryman?s for 30 mins and as I was pulling the carb out I swished them up and down a bit.

I then threw the body in a bucket of hot soapy water and swished the carb around in there before I blew it dry with shop air.

As far as cleaning the slides, I used a bit of carb dip on a shop rag and whipped the parts down and cleaned them that way.

A used tooth brush works well to help remove any stubborn goo. Be sure to clean the carb bore as well with a tooth brush after the dip before cleansing with soap.

Also ensure that all orafices are free and clear!

I'll do that. Thanks for all the tips! Love you bike by the way. :-D
 
Chuckster,

I soaked my fuel inlet needle valve assembly in the carb cleaner and it did fine. I am not telling you to do the same, just letting you know what I did. With the pilot jet replacements. I bought mine at www.bikebandit.com. They were in the same condition as yours. Someone down the line had messed with them and tore the heads up a bit. i used my small bolt extractor to pull them out, it was easy. I am replacing all four; I think $6.00 a piece. Since you have the kit you should compare the pilot jet with one you puled out. Are there any differences?

Cory

Thanks for the info Cory. I've bought stuff from Bikebandit before. I like them. Didn't know they carried that stuff too. Nice to know! :-D
 
Anybody got any tips on cleaning the CV boot and slide? Looks pretty delicate and I'd hate to mess it up! :shock:
 
Anybody got any tips on cleaning the CV boot and slide? Looks pretty delicate and I'd hate to mess it up! :shock:

82SHAFTY told you how to do this in a previous reply. Carb dip on a rag. Wash off with soapy water immediately after.
 
AAAAGHH!


PLEASE don't get standard carb cleaner anywhere NEAR the diaphragms, floats, rubber fuel tees, or anything plastic or rubber that you care about. Stop it! Stop it RIGHT NOW! Put the spray can down and back away slowly... :shock:


To gently clean these chemically delicate bits, simply use Sea Foam. In "pourable" form, it's Sea Foam. In spray can form, it's called Deep Creep, but it's pretty much the same stuff. These are safe on plastic and rubber, but carb cleaner is not.
 
AAAAGHH!


PLEASE don't get standard carb cleaner anywhere NEAR the diaphragms, floats, rubber fuel tees, or anything plastic or rubber that you care about. Stop it! Stop it RIGHT NOW! Put the spray can down and back away slowly... :shock:


To gently clean these chemically delicate bits, simply use Sea Foam. In "pourable" form, it's Sea Foam. In spray can form, it's called Deep Creep, but it's pretty much the same stuff. These are safe on plastic and rubber, but carb cleaner is not.

Thanks for the tip on the Deep Creep! I'll pick some up tomorrow. I've only soaked the #1 carb body in Berrymans as of now, so I haven't done anything to any other parts yet. I appreciate it. :-D

I left the #1 carb body soaking for two days and rinsed it tonight with soap and warm water; then, as I was blowing it out with my air compressor, a big chunk of mud/gunk came out of one of the side holes. Somebody must of been dirt riding with this thing or something. So I put it back in to soak for another day. Taking my time trying to do them right.
 
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