• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Loose Cam Cover Bolts

mcycle-nut

Forum Mentor
Past Site Supporter
Charter Member
Anybody ever had that happen to you? I noticed I was getting a burning oil smell at lights, and a big cloud when I revved the engine at lights. Hmm, not cool. I thought it was because the half moon gaskets on the head or the washers under the Phillips, (sorry, the JIS :rolleyes:), screws on top of the cam cover were leaking. Sorced some new ones and gasket, and when I went to take the cover off, EVERY bolt and screw was loose enough to be taken off with my fingers! One bolt wasn't even touching the cover! :eek: The gasket was literally toasted, but came off pretty much in one piece, making cleanup a breeze! I made sure when I put it together I put a LIGHT,(notice I said LIGHT, not enough to blob out), coating of RTV on the gasket surfaces and tightened the bolts down a little tighter. I guess I'm a little too cautious with tightening small bolts in aluminum, as I work on boilers with large steel bolts, usually which take a cheater bar to remove!
Maybe trying to catch up to Rob on the Port Alice road shook the **** out of everything!:lol:
 
I don't know about your bolt problem, but I'd rather have a small leak occasionally and have to tighten a few bolts once in a while than have RTV loose inside my engine, no matter how small the blobs. There are some VERY tiny oil passages inside the engine.
 
"I work on boilers with large steel bolts, usually which take a cheater bar to remove!"

impress your co-workers by getting a 1/4 inch drive torque wrench and tighten the cam cover bolts to about 8 foot-lbs in a progressive pattern. No need for rtv -
 
8 ft lbs is too tight. Something like 65 - 75 inch pounds, or a light twist with a couple fingers on a short ratchet.
 
The 850 manual calls for 6.5 foot lbs (78 inch lbs). I have stripped one at this torque setting. Inserting a helicoil tomorrow.
 
I've never had that happen with the stock paper gaskets but have had it happen with the silicone gaskets but with those ones you're only suppose to tighten the bolts a tich past finger tight. Princess Auto has a great 1/4 torque wrench that I use all the time for things like that, great price too.
 
I prefer a light twist with a couple well calibrated fingers on a short ratchet. A torque wrench is clumsy, even a small inch pound one. If the threads are damaged by some previous bonehead's hamfisted ways it's hard to feel them letting go until they are gone.

I'd rather have to cinch them up again once or twice a year than strip one out of the head.
 
I have always installed valve cover gaskets dry with lacquer thinner as a cleaner and wipe the rubber half moons with lacquer thinner until they are not shiny any longer and install them. No RTV or any type sealer anywhere. I have also taken a small punch and punch a few small places around the valve cover gasket area to give it something to hold onto (mostly in the centers) if I have a problem pushing them out or pulling them in. Which should not happen but does at times with older engines. Any type of sealer just gives the gasket something to slide on.
 
Last edited:
Just going by what Mr. Haynes reccommends. From manual 737, "Suzuki GSX/GS1000, 1100 & 1150 4-valve Fours", on page 29, it is written in the section reguarding valve clearances, "After adjustment is complete, clean the joint face of the cylinder head and cover and place new gasket in position. A thin film of RTV sealant should be applied to both sides of the gasket to ensure an oil-tight seal."
From "The bible", "Suzuki GSX1100 Service Manual", part #99500-39014-01E, on page 2-6, in section reguarding valve clearances, "A thin film of SUZUKI Bond No. 1215 on both sides of the gasket will ensure an oil tight seal". I don't know what "SUZUKI Bond 1215 is, but it's probably RTV.
I think a lot of people are reluctant to use RTV because a lot of people don't know what "light coating" means. I've seen where people just goop the stuff on, which can cause serious problems. Seriously, if I can't see the metal underneath the the thin coating of RTV I've put on, I've put too much on.
 
I coat mine with a thin layer of grease on both sides so I can get a couple of uses out of them.
 
I don't know what "SUZUKI Bond 1215 is, but it's probably RTV.

Could be something like fuel lube.

Oh, and now its called EZ turn lube ;).

EZ Turn is a specialty lubricant/sealant used for fuel and oil line valves & is resistant to high temps. Especially effective where high octane fuels and aromatics are present. EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste & anti- seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out. Each shipment is independently tested. Excellent for tapered plug valves, aircraft engine manufacturing, and marine applications.
 
I think the torque suggested has to be taken in the context of the gasket used. I reckon gaskets are different in how they react to being squeezed and in particular different materials may loose their springiness after a time clamped up. I wouldn't even be sure that an oem today was the same as 1980. Suck it and see.
 
Back
Top