Main electrical help wanted

[alke46]

Last week I had the GS in Colorado and it performed flawlessly with the exception of two times when I pushed the start button, I got nothing. With the 2nd attempt, it started just fine.

Now back home, I went to take it to a car wash and riding up the hill from my house, I approached a stop sign and remembered my headlight was off. When I turned on the switch to the headlight, it acted like the main fuse had blown.

I got back down the hill, trying to bump start it and nothing would happen--just like the kill switch was in the off position.

Fuses are all OK and the only way I can get power to anything is with the handlebars fully turned and the key in the park position towards the right. In this position the tail light will come on. Other than that, I cannot get anything to work. No horn, no lights, nothing.

I have done a little bit of testing but cannot find the fault yet. Any advice??????

BTW, the battery is new and showing 12.7 volts.

Appreciate any good advice.

Thanks

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Connector under the tank on the right side, usually 9 pin square type could be pulling apart and loosing connection or corroded and causing the issues you are expeiencing.

 

[alke46]

Connector under the tank on the right side, usually 9 pin square type could be pulling apart and loosing connection or corroded and causing the issues you are expeiencing.

I just checked this 9 pin connecter and it is still clean and has dielectric grease still in it from 3 years ago when I cleaned all the plugs and connections. It appears to be OK.

Anymore suggestions? Thanks in advance.

 

[Kiwi Canuck]

Larry,

Possibly the ignition switch, if you look at the wiring diagram, you maybe able to jump the wires to bypass the switch and see if the issue goes away.

Looks like jump R&O and Gr & Br if I read that correctly.

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000.pdf

It should be possible to remove the bottom of the ignition switch and check if the wires are still making good connection and that the contactors and in working condition.

Use a multimeter to see if the contacts change when you switch the key on and off, the parking circuit appears to be be working properly.

David.

Edit, I have a spare ignition switch so let me test it to verify the operation, but first I need to make a key for it so will get back to you this afternoon.

Once you remove the black plastic cover from the bottom of the assembly it's easy to test as the terminals are there.

 

[storm 64]

Hey Larry, are you sure the fuse is okay? I had a main fuse problem on my 1000. The fuse didn't blow, but the solder inside the glass melted from heat. I cleaned the fuse clips and everything was good again. Maybe worth looking at. Good luck buddy

 

[rustybronco]

Broken wire in the main harness only allowing contact when the bars are turned? Should be easy enough to track down the root cause.

 

[alke46]

Larry,

Possibly the ignition switch, if you look at the wiring diagram, you maybe able to jump the wires to bypass the switch and see if the issue goes away.

Looks like jump R&O and Gr & Br if I read that correctly.

http://zeus.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/GS1000.pdf

It should be possible to remove the bottom of the ignition switch and check if the wires are still making good connection and that the contactors and in working condition.

Use a multimeter to see if the contacts change when you switch the key on and off, the parking circuit appears to be be working properly.

David.

Edit, I have a spare ignition switch so let me test it to verify the operation, but first I need to make a key for it so will get back to you this afternoon.

Once you remove the black plastic cover from the bottom of the assembly it's easy to test as the terminals are there.

I have removed the bottom cover of the switch and noticed changes in the connections when switching the key off and on. I must admit that I do not know what I am looking for when testing those 4 connectors under the cap. I just put my leads on one of them and the other lead went to another contact. Voltage would change so I guess the switch is not the problem????

Hey Larry, are you sure the fuse is okay? I had a main fuse problem on my 1000. The fuse didn't blow, but the solder inside the glass melted from heat. I cleaned the fuse clips and everything was good again. Maybe worth looking at. Good luck buddy

Norm, the fuse clips all look clean and I switched all 4 fuses with new ones and it made no difference. Thanks for your suggestion.

Broken wire in the main harness only allowing contact when the bars are turned? Should be easy enough to track down the root cause.

Not necessarily easy for someone with my small knowledge of electrical stuff.

The reference to the bars turned was just showing the parking light is working when the key is turned all the way clockwise, past the on position.
Your input is appreciated.

 

[alke46]

I am running out of time right now to find the answer to my problem. I have to get busy doing other things as I will be traveling to Ind. for the weekend. Hopefully on Monday, I can get back to trouble shooting this problem.

Keep the suggestions coming though as I can use all the help.

Thanks

 

[salty_monk]

Take the fuse box off & have a look at the back of it... Sometimes they melt back there & you get an intermittent. You can re-solder (and in my case I filled the case up with epoxy as well).

 

[alke46]

Take the fuse box off & have a look at the back of it... Sometimes they melt back there & you get an intermittent. You can re-solder (and in my case I filled the case up with epoxy as well).

Checked that and all the soldered ends look good. Thanks anyway.

 

[alke46]

As it all went dead at the time I was switching the headlight on, I am wondering if it is something in that housing or maybe in the starter button housing since I had two different times when I hit the start button that it failed to make contact, then on the next attempt, it contacted and started right up.

Scratching my head here trying to make sense of the whole thing.

 

[alke46]

Seems like the horn should at least work though and maybe the turn signals. IDK!.

 

[rustybronco]

Clarification...

Fuses are all OK and the only way I can get power to anything is with the handlebars fully turned and the key in the park position towards the right. In this position the tail light will come on.

Does anything light up/work when the key is in the on position?

Does the bike crank? If it doesn't, have you tried jumping across the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to see if it will crank?

 

[alke46]

Does anything light up/work when the key is in the on position?

No, nothing will work. This includes the horn, turn signals instrument lights and brake light. Nothing.

No, have not tried jumping across the starter solenoid yet. That will have to wait until Monday as I am leaving town for the weekend. Thanks.

 

[rustybronco]

Any further update?

 

[alke46]

Any further update?

No, haven't gotten back to it yet. Testing begins tonight with a little luck.

 

[Redman]

That key position wioth key turned all the way and handlebars locked is called the "park" position, and yes it turns on the tail light and tail light only... and it uses the main power (not fuse that typically powers the tail light).... so that is a clue.... a little bit of a clue, it tells you your main power to the ignition switch is okay. So knowing thast is okay, then must be that what you are loosing is the power back (orange wire) to the fuse block for the head & signal & ignition fuse.


When you talked about turning handle bars: did you mean you loose power when turn handle bars?
Or did yolu just mean if turn all the way and go to the park position then you have everything out but tail light on? (which is what should happen then).

I would also say that you need a volt meter (or test lamp probe) to troubleshoot this. See if you are getting power back on that orange wire or not. If not, then are loosing it somewhere from the ignoition swtich. If do have power on orange wire then are loosing it inside the fuse block (Yes, that can happen).,

If you dont have a volt meter (or test lamp probe) then try wiggling the connector on bottom of the ignition swtich.

Dave

.

 

[alke46]

Clarification...
Does anything light up/work when the key is in the on position?

Does the bike crank? If it doesn't, have you tried jumping across the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to see if it will crank?

Bike does not crank. I just tried jumping across the solenoid and it does crank that way.

 

[alke46]

That key position wioth key turned all the way and handlebars locked is called the "park" position, and yes it turns on the tail light and tail light only... and it uses the main power (not fuse that typically powers the tail light).... so that is a clue.... a little bit of a clue, it tells you your main power to the ignition switch is okay. So knowing thast is okay, then must be that what you are loosing is the power back (orange wire) to the fuse block for the head & signal & ignition fuse.

Thanks, I'll check that orange wire next.

When you talked about turning handle bars: did you mean you loose power when turn handle bars? No.
Or did yolu just mean if turn all the way and go to the park position then you have everything out but tail light on? (which is what should happen then). Correct.



I would also say that you need a volt meter (or test lamp probe) to troubleshoot this. See if you are getting power back on that orange wire or not. If not, then are loosing it somewhere from the ignoition swtich. If do have power on orange wire then are loosing it inside the fuse block (Yes, that can happen).,

If you dont have a volt meter (or test lamp probe) then try wiggling the connector on bottom of the ignition swtich.

Dave

.

​Thanks, will check this after breakfast.

 

[alke46]

I just now removed the fuse block and on the back side with the key switched to the on position, I got no reading from the orange wire at all.

I will now have to check the switch again.