Mikuni 36mm flat slides.

[Leslowone]

I have a 1982 Suzuki GS 1100 E set up for Drag racing with a Vance and Hynes Street and strip pipe. I’ve had a set of eBay Mikuni flat slides lying around for nearly 14 years. It was a deal that I couldn’t pass up back then. Since my original carburetors had gotten gummed up while in storage, I decided to completely rebuild these Mikuni’s. i’ve got them on the bike and have the synchronization dialed in.
Does anybody else have a similar set up?
I am wondering where to start off on the jetting such as needle position, Pilot jetting, and main jetting along with proper float height?
any help will be appreciated.

 

[unfocused]

If you haven't touched the compression ratio, I would not change anything, yet... Just make sure all the internals are the same for the stock carbs - jets, needles, etc...
95 Katana 750 with same size carbs - sidewinder 4 into 1 w/straight pipe about 18". This is important because the length changes things. Without the pipe I had horrible bottom end, zero mid-range but a crazy top end. added the length of pipe and everything is almost back to normal. Changes in process with this engine going into another frame so I stopped tuning but it was running great... Foam air filters with the stock velocity stacks/air box tubes, and not much else done to it besides advancing the ignition a couple degrees.
Carbs are stock and my floats are set at 14mm or 13mm ???. I don't remember as it's been a minute.

Get everything in place and do several 3000 rpm full roll ons in 2nd or 3rd gear - this will tell you everything. Since you're drag racing you'll want to pay more attention to above 6k rpms.

Also,this will help and they have good info with cv carbs

http://www.factorypro.com/tech/carbtun.html

 

[unfocused]

When I opened up my CV carbs for the Katana 750 this is how I found them. Yes, one spring is actually broken:

 

[Don R]

I'm working on my street bike 81 gs1100e with new RS36's, K&N's and a Kerker pipe. I have an air fuel meter made up that I can move from bike to bike. Right now it's jetted as it came but wide open it's really rich, like 9.8 to 1. I need to remove the carbs so when I open them up I'll have a better idea of what's really in there. I read 130 mains but also got 125's and 120's with it. 17.5 pilots? I'll post more when I know more, My plan is to drop two main sizes and lower the needles a notch. I'd like to see the air fuel ratios in the high 12 to mid 13 ranges, now it's more like high 10's.
Edit: my meter is apparently reading incorrectly, I'm putting the carbs back to 17.5/130 and in the as delivered notch. it runs lousy cold.

 

[Don R]

I did the change I mentioned above, it runs good but cackles between shifts. I'm wondering if my air fuel probe is flowing enough exhaust to read correctly, if I turn it on and it heats the sensor, then run right away with a cold engine sometimes it reads way rich and doesn't seem to clear up. I'll be sure to install it on a hot engine and warm exhaust next time. I found a set of 127.5's and plan to swap those into it, then get some plugs so I can do a proper plug chop and compare that to the meter.

 

[Grimly]

I did the change I mentioned above, it runs good but cackles between shifts. I'm wondering if my air fuel probe is flowing enough exhaust to read correctly, if I turn it on and it heats the sensor, then run right away with a cold engine sometimes it reads way rich and doesn't seem to clear up. I'll be sure to install it on a hot engine and warm exhaust next time. I found a set of 127.5's and plan to swap those into it, then get some plugs so I can do a proper plug chop and compare that to the meter.

The instructions with the AFR gauge I bought explicitly warn against running the sensor on a cold engine. I let the engine warm up for five minutes before switching on the sensor / gauge feed.