My new 1978 GS550. Trying to learn about bikes and safe riding (Madison, WI)

[noveg]

Hi,
I recently got a 1978 GS1000E for a price too good to refuse. It ran (poorly), and needed a ton of work. This weekend I traded the 78 GS 1000 E for a 78 GS 550 that is in decent running condition!
(The thread about the previous bike is here)

I've rode the bike around town and let a friend practice in a parking lot for about 45 minutes, and so far I've had NO major problems!

The bike has 9,400 miles on it, has a kickstarter and electric start, all of the turn signals, gauges, etc. work.

The previous owner's hobby is fixing up old motorcycles and he's got a lot of experience. He walked through the whole bike pointing out things to keep an eye out for when we traded. When he fixed it up, he put a Harley exhaust on it that he had laying around (the original was no good after it sat for a while)

Problems to work on:

• Need new front tire
• Fix Clutch pull arm where the cable became disconnected
• May need new rear tire soon
• Rear brake pads should be changed soon
• Front shocks bottom out easily (seals might be blown, drain & replace oil) (do they need more a new seal, oil?)
• Backfires when running above 4k RPM
• Air filter is homemade and should be replaced (have UNI replacement filter, need filter oil, but I'm worried that it will mess with how the bike runs)
• Air filter cover is missing, replace with plastic with holes drilled in it, or OEM part
• The seat could use a recovering
• The glass on the tachometer gauge has a couple of cracks (can superglue to keep together)
• Adjust the ride height down a tad so I can touch the ground a little more easily
• Heat shield on exhaust pipe is missing a bolt
• Headlight on/off knob fell off
• Right-side side mirror glass is cracked, not too bad

Things I'd like to improve:

• Keep some proper tools and supplies with me (any suggestions?)
• Maybe Plasti-Dip it to make the paint more durable and good looking. Maybe Plastidip?
• DONE Safe place to store a second helmet while riding
• DONE Figure out how to lock my helmet to it when I'm not riding

Things to keep in mind:

• Previous owner said it may have been rejetted
• the VIN on the engine doesn't match the numbers stamped on the frame neck (not a problem)
• The chain tension should be checked (and adjusted if needed) regularly
• A previous owner tried to adjust the idle set screw, the guy who sold it to me tried to set it back.
• Points might need to be replaced? (the previous owner said he filed something down last season, but there might not be enough left to file down) (Big T recommended the Dyna S DS3-2 Electronic Ignition System)

Upgrades I've done:

• Added a luggage rack/sissy bar from the old bike
• Got a cheap cover for it
• Put together a first aid/supplies kit to keep on the bike (first-aid, poncho, writing utensils, etc.)
• Put together a first tool/parts kit to keep on the bike (wrenches, zipties, extra spark plug, etc.)
• Got a padlock for locking a helmet to it, etc.
• Got a second full-face helmet for passengers to wear

Questions I'm almost embarrassed to ask:

1. What are possible causes of the front shock bottoming out when I go up the lip to my driveway? How do I drain and reflill the shock? What kind of oil to use?
2. What are possible causes of backfiring when above 4k RPM
3. What symptoms indicate that the points need to be replaced?
4. Any suggestions on buying used gear for the casual rider that isn't too hot, or expensive?

Questions I'm glad I got help with:

1. What exact model is it? (1978 550E model (GS550EC) with the later seat from 1980 GS550 fitted <-Thanks Big T & Ton1959! )
2. What way the petcock should point when I'm done riding? (leave the circle down (ON) when riding, move the circle clockwise to 9 oclock (res) when you run out of gas)
3. Does it have tubes in the tires, and should I replace the tires? (Yes Tubes, replace if older than 5 years <-Thanks Big T!)
4. What gear should I be in for what speed? (higher than car RPMS are good, 4k+ when riding, 5k-6k is more efficient)
5. What kind of points to replace it with? (I think the previous owner mentioned he filed something down last season but that there isn't much left to file down) (Big T recommended the Dyna S DS3-2 Electronic Ignition System)
6. Why does the VIN stamped on the neck of the frame not match the vin on the engine? <-OK pre-1980 VIN was on engine in Wisconsin

Parts I'm looking for:

• Rear brake pads
• Air filter oil
• Top to air box, right now it's just open
• Replacement glass for tachometer
• Headlight switch knob (mine fell off)
• Bolts for the heat shield
• Windshield (maybe a slipstreamer? Any other suggestions?)
• Newer tires
• Highway bars & pegs
• New points, or something like the Dyna S DS3-2 Electronic Ignition System
• Extra master chain link (previous owner said it might be size 50?)
• New seat cover (maybe from saddleman? Other suggestions)
• Summer-weight gloves
• Motorcycle boots
• Leather bike jacket (currently have a mesh joe rocket one)
• Extra tube for tires
• Mini flashlight to keep on the bike
• Extra fuses to keep on the bike
• Paracord to keep on the bike
• HAVE Extra oil to top it up if needed
• HAVE Air filter
• HAVE Extra sparkplug to keep on the bike
• HAVE Rain suit or poncho to keep on bike
• HAVE Luggage rack w/ sissy bar and mini zipped bag (from the previous GS1000)

Where I am with the top 10 Newbie mistakes (Originally Posted by Nessism):

• Buy New Oil: Using the wrong oil and/or gasoline. Diesel engine oil is cheap and contains lots of high pressure additives appropriate for our engines. Shell Rotella oil is even certified for use with wet clutches if that makes you more comfortable, although just about any diesel oil is fine. As for fuel, Suzuki calls for use of Regular gas.
• To Do: Complete clean carbs
• To Do: properly adjusted valves
• To Do: make sure the entire airbox system is 100% sealed (airbox, carb boots)
• To Do: properly functioning petcock
• To Do: Replacing the intake boot O-rings. The classic "hanging idle" (or idle speed that increases on it's own as the bike warms up)
• Check: Trying to clean out the brake system full of brown gunky fluid by flushing the system. If the fluid is dark and brown the only way to clean the system is a full tear down and clean out otherwise chunks will remain behind in the system. While your at it the old rubber brake lines should be changed. Suzuki call for replacing the lines every 2 years, so if your bike still has the originals you are 28 years overdue. The old lines will lead to spongy brake lever feel and contaminate the fresh fluid you just installed.
• Waiting for the charging system to fail, instead of cleaning up the old wiring.
• DONE: a clean gas tank (no rust)
• NOT A PROBLEM: Trying to run the bike without the airbox...or installing pods, or a header, w/o rejetting.

Pics of the bike:

I'll try to keep this updated as I learn/improve things.

Thanks for reading!

 

[tkent02]

Start here:

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/bikecliff/

I have a lot of 550 parts if you need them. Exhausts, air filters, brakes.

 

[noveg]

Check into the availability of Motorcycle Safety Foundation rider training courses in your state.
Their course in free in my state, but I don't know about your state.

Thank you Jabcb! I took the course in Michigan (only $25!) 2 years ago.
Are there any particular skills you recommend focusing on?
('ve been practicing the training games I remember they taught (like rolling back and forth using the clutch point on a slight slope, etc.).

I would appreciate any other suggestions on getting better at riding/safety!

Thank you!

 

[Big T]

Focus on swerving and braking (66% of all MC crashes come from someone turning in front of you)

Then cornering (25% of crashes caused by the rider going wide)

That 550 seems to still be a bit of project

To answer a few of your questions

1. Suzuki serial numbers do not match
2. You have a 1978 550E model (GS550EC)
3. The petcock is ON (down), Reserve (forward) and Prime(back). In your photo, it is on Reserve
4. Your tires should have tubes. Check the date code on the tires. If they are more than 5 years old, replace them
5. Points? you can replace them, which you should if you don't know how old they are or ,better yet, replace them with a Dyna S is one's available
6. You have a luggage rack, get a tail bag, you can take whatever tools and equipment you need
7 you can gain leg room by cutting down the seat foam before you recover it
8. You'll be revving the snot out of a 550. Do not ride it like a car or a V twin
9. Read through the BassCliff greeting, his website and the Top 10 Newbie mistakes.

Like he said, TKent has a bunch of parts that you may need. He's grouchy, but reliable
6.

 

[Ton1959]

I see you have the later seat from the 1980 GS550 fitted on yours. The right seat might be slightly lower.

 

[eil]

Hi noveg!

You might consider putting your location in your user profile so that it shows up automatically in your posts. I suggest this not because we are nosy bastards, but because it is often the case that if you get stuck or just want a hand with something, someone nearby might be willing to come and help. (Sometimes for the price of beer or muffins, sometimes for free. YMMV. )

Great idea swapping that GS1000 that needed a complete overhaul for this mostly road-worthy GS550. You won't regret it. My first bike was a GS850GL that I started riding a little over a year ago, I have a link to the "rebuild" thread in my signature if you're interested. Looks like you're well on your way.

Welcome!

 

[noveg]

Thank you all! This is one of the most helpful and welcoming forums I've ever seen!

I'd like your feedback, right now my turn-off procedure is as follows:

1. Shift bike into neutral
2. Turn off headlights (to make it easier to start)
3. Put down kick stand
4. Turn off engine switch
5. Turn off ignition (put it in lock position)
6. Rotate petcock (not sure if I need to do this, or where to aim it)
7. Dismount bike
8. Remove gloves, glasses, helmet, jacket, etc.

Am I missing anything?

Focus on swerving and braking (66% of all MC crashes come from someone turning in front of you)
Then cornering (25% of crashes caused by the rider going wide)

Thank you, I'll look into some drills to practice.

That 550 seems to still be a bit of project

Yep, its far from perfect, but I'm OK with that. From the photos/description are there other things you'd recommend I do/look at?

1. Suzuki serial numbers do not match

Just to be clear, the number stamped on the neck doesn't need to match the number stamped on the engine case? (The sticker on the fork is mostly worn off, but the stamp in the metal near it doesn't match the registration or engine)

3. The petcock is ON (down), Reserve (forward) and Prime(back). In your photo, it is on Reserve

Which way should the circle in the photo be in when the bike is off?

5. Points? you can replace them, which you should if you don't know how old they are or ,better yet, replace them with a Dyna S is one's available

Thank you. Looks like the Dyna S DS3-2 Electronic Ignition System will fit my bike. At $150, I might have to save up or find a cheaper alternative. Are there decent cheaper options out there?

8. You'll be revving the snot out of a 550. Do not ride it like a car or a V twin

What do you mean? Right now it idles around 1250 RPM. What range should it be in when I'm riding? I'm not interested in going fast, just cruising around town. Should I be shifting up when I get around 4-5k RPM, or let it go higher? When should I downshift? around 2k RPM? (I already googled it, but didn't seem to get much consensus)

9. Read through the BassCliff greeting, his website and the Top 10 Newbie mistakes.

Thank you! Did do! Read the newb top 10, etc.

You might consider putting your location in your user profile so that it shows up automatically in your posts...

Thank you for the welcome and suggestion! I've updated my avatar, etc.
Looked over your rebuild posts, they look pretty cool!

I see you have the later seat from the 1980 GS550 fitted on yours. The right seat might be slightly lower.

Very Helpful! Thank you!

 

[Guest]

Just to answer a couple:

No, the number on the neck doesn't need to matck the number on the engine case. When our bikes were manufactured, Suzuki just took the engine that happened to be at the end of the line, and put into the frame that was at the end of that line. The number on the neck is the 'VIN'.

And, assuming your petcock is working correctly, the 'circle' should point down (for ON). REServe is used when you are low on fuel and PRIme is used when there is insufficient fuel in the carbs - maybe when you haven't started it for a while or something.

Petcocks do go wrong, but they are not difficult to test.

 

[noveg]

The number on the neck is the 'VIN'.

So the VIN on the title is the same as the VIN on the engine, not the neck. Am I screwed when I go to register the bike?

 

[tkent02]

What do you mean? Right now it idles around 1250 RPM. What range should it be in when I'm riding? I'm not interested in going fast, just cruising around town. Should I be shifting up when I get around 4-5k RPM, or let it go higher? When should I downshift? around 2k RPM? (I already googled it, but didn't seem to get much consensus)

Idle at 1250 is fine, a little higher than it needs. You can ride it at 3,000, but it won't accelerate or go up much of a hill. 4,000 it gets a little power, 5,000 a bit more, 7,000 it gets quite a bit more, at about 8,000 it takes off like a raped ape, it will pull hard well past redline with no ill effects…

It's more efficient at 5,000 - 6,000 and gets better fuel economy than it will at 3,000.

I probably don't ever ride mine below 4,000 except at idle or maybe coasting to a stop, usually much much higher.

Get to know your engine, it will tell you when it's in it's happy place.

Edit, I am not advocating riding fast until your skills are up to it.

 

[Guest]

So the VIN on the title is the same as the VIN on the engine, not the neck. Am I screwed when I go to register the bike?

I don't know exactly how your registration system works. But, to put it simply, the frame number should match the paperwork. The engine number doesn't come into it.

 

[noveg]

Thank you TKent02! I won't be trying to ride fast, I can just leave it in a lower gear.

Thank you!

 

[eil]

If the serial number on the frame doesn't match the serial number on the title, someone goofed. You'll have to sort it out with your DMV. It may be a simple correction, or it may be a painful process. You won't know until you call them. You may be able to register the bike if they don't go out and physically verify the VIN on the bike, but then you run the risk of having the bike impounded if there's an encounter with the law enforcement or having an insurance claim denied. Bottom line: get it sorted out sooner rather than later.

Regarding the RPMs, try not to think about it too much right now. Focus on learning to ride and shift smoothly first. You'll figure it out the RPMs-to-speed ratio thing as you go along. The only point tkent and others were trying to make is don't be afraid to run it at high RPMs if your skills are up to it. The bike will handle the upper end of the tach with no complaints. (And will in fact reward you for it.)

Also, since you asked for tips on riding safely, there's one thing I thought I would mention: ATGATT. If you don't know what that is yet, google it now and thank me later.

 

[DanTheMan]

noveg, I suggest you register for, and take the MSF BRC again as well. It's been two years, you haven't ridden, taking it again will bring it all back into focus for you and in doing so you'll update your skill level. In Wisconsin passing the BRC also will allow you to get the endorsement on your license with the current MSF BRC completion card.

 

[noveg]

Thank you Dan & Eil!

I'm familiar with ATGATT. I've got a Joe Rocket mesh jacket (like this one), and two full face helmets. I have been riding with safety glasses, thick leather gloves, thick leather shoes, and my thickets jeans.
I looked into riding boots today, and will try to find some on craigslist as well as actual riding gloves and pants ASAP. Any suggestions on buying gear for the casual rider that isn't too hot, or expensive?

About the MSF course, thank you, that is a great suggestion. I do already have the license endorsement, but since a couple of friends want to take it, I might as well take it again with them!

Thank you all for the help,

- Noveg

 

[noveg]

Good news. In Wisconsin, motorcycles 1980 and older the title goes by the VIN on the engine.
Just verified this with the Wisconsin DOT Advanced Research and Information Group. (608) 266-1466.
Looks like I'm in the clear.

 

[tkent02]

Any suggestions on buying gear for the casual rider that isn't too hot, or expensive?

Look at NewEnough, and get mesh pants with full armor.

 

[SouthsideWJK]

Love the bike man!

Love the bike man!

Looks like a fun ride, solid learner!

 

[Big T]

Other members have responded to post #8, so I'll just hit the few they missed

The petcock doesn't need to be moved when you ride, or stop. The circle should be down (ON). You only move it forward (as in your last photo) to Reserve when you run out of gas

The 550 is a small engine and produces power at higher RPMs. Keep it above 4K , as Tom suggests

Costs - you bought a bike cheaply. That means it needs $500-$1,000 to fix all of its problems and become roadworthy. Yes, you'll end up spending more than you paid for the bike. That's why a decent, complete one costs around $1,500

Read the top 10 newbie mistakes again and use that as a checklist for your bike. Ask the guy you got it from what he did to it and check that off of your list. Then, do the rest, like check the date code on the tires.

 

[Mista M]

Read through the links given, if you search youtube there are helpful videos some GS members made.

Gear: Revzilla, sportbiketrackgear, motorcyclesuperstore. read reviews and watch out for sizing differences between brands of gear.

Riding tip:
Practice rotating your head while walking, driving a car, looking at women, everything. Make it second nature.
When cornering/turning, don't keep a stiff elbow. Bend the elbow.

Search Keith Code on youtube.