Need help with 1979 GS1000 forks

[slamonte]

I purchased the bike and the front forks were leaking. I am in the process of changing to progressive springs and new oil seals. The hex screws at the bottom of the lower legs just spin but do not come out. It looks like someone had used some RTV on them. MY question is how can I remove the HEX screws at the bottom of the lower legs? Also I"m not sure how to take appart the lower leg to clean them because I know little pieces of the old seals have gone in. I've read that there is a 8mm nut or something that holds the damper rod in. Does anyone have experience with this process? I bought a 20 inch 3/8 extension for my ratchet but I'm not sure I'm getting to whatever is holding in the damper rod. Any help greatly appreciated

Steve
slamonte2@comcast.net

 

[robinjo]

You need a 19 mm Allen key, I just got some 12 mm threaded rod and welded 2 twelve mm nuts to either end.

 

[frosty5011]

You need a 19 mm Allen key, I just got some 12 mm threaded rod and welded 2 twelve mm nuts to either end.

I'm not as blessed as Robin and don't have access to a welder, so I just counter-tightened 2 19mm nuts (or 3/4") on each end of a 18" pc of threaded rod.:-D

 

[robinjo]

I'm not as blessed as Robin and don't have access to a welder, so I just counter-tightened 2 19mm nuts (or 3/4") on each end of a 18" pc of threaded rod.:-D

Yeah it was quite a day when my welding machine came falling from the sky with a little note attached to it saying: "here you go kid, thought you might need it" :-D I thought of the other method too but couldn't think if a word for counter-tightened.

 

[frosty5011]

Yeah it was quite a day when my welding machine came falling from the sky with a little note attached to it saying: "here you go kid, thought you might need it" :-D I thought of the other method too but couldn't think if a word for counter-tightened.

It's a unique word, and I hold the patent on it. That's something that I have been blessed with!:-D

 

[don_gibb6512]

a pic of the tool

a pic of the tool

Here's what I made that both Frosty511 and Robinjo are referring to. As you can see, I drilled a hole through both the last 19mm nut and the 4 inch, 19mm head bolt and then tapped in a set pin and voila !! Fork stanchion holding tool. This drops in to the top, open end of the fork and then with your extension and a 19mm socket, you can reach it. No patent. Feel free to make as many as you wish.

 

[Guest]

All you have to do is flip a spark plug socket over and put it on your extension (go through the socket). The big hex on the base of that socket is 19mm. Hold the bolt that is turning on the botttom of your forks while you loosen everything up with your ratchet.

 

[slamonte]

Thanks for all your help

Thanks for all your help

I ended up using the inverted 5/8 spark plug. It had a 19mm end on it. I had to drill through the rounded part on the inside (Where the sparkplug tip goes) in order for my exrension to go all the way through to the square fitting of the socket. Thanks for all your help!

Is there any tricks I should know about in reassemble of the forks? (besides trying to remeber where everything goes!) Ha Ha:-D

Steve

 

[Guest]

I put mine back together off the bike. It makes it easier to push the spring down when you screw on your cap. Make sure you put exactly the same amount of oil in each tube. Since you are putting Progressive springs in, you can use a bit more oil and not need to put air in. Use 260cc and no air. I read about this trick in an old mag, and used it on my 1000. She handles great.

 

[BadBillyB]

Is there any tricks I should know about in reassemble of the forks? (besides trying to remeber where everything goes!) Ha Ha:-D

Steve

Carefully inspect the bottom of the fork tube where it rubs on the fork slider. Mine had rubbed all the way through the chrome plating. I marked the bad spot at the top of the tube so I could locate the bad spot 90 degrees from where it was. This gave the point of maximum friction (where the bad spot was) a new surface of the inner fork tube to ride on. This noticeably reduced the stiction of the forks. I would recommend at least a 1" spacer on top of the progressives when assembling. 20wt fork oil and no air....BadBillyB

 

[slamonte]

I put mine back together off the bike. It makes it easier to push the spring down when you screw on your cap. Make sure you put exactly the same amount of oil in each tube. Since you are putting Progressive springs in, you can use a bit more oil and not need to put air in. Use 260cc and no air. I read about this trick in an old mag, and used it on my 1000. She handles great.

BadBillyB, do you know what the distance from the top of the fork is when you use 260cc? I believe the manual says for 241cc the distance is 5.51 inch (140 mm). I heard a trick that you can take a spray nozzel from a spray bottle and cut the tube to the distance you need. Fill the forks up to approx level and put the sprayer in the tube. If is doesn't reach the tube add more fluid. When fluid is touching the tube start spraying until if doesn't spray any longer, you'll be at the level you need. do the same on other fork. this way you know they are the same.

 

[Guest]

BadBillyB, do you know what the distance from the top of the fork is when you use 260cc? I believe the manual says for 241cc the distance is 5.51 inch (140 mm). I heard a trick that you can take a spray nozzel from a spray bottle and cut the tube to the distance you need. Fill the forks up to approx level and put the sprayer in the tube. If is doesn't reach the tube add more fluid. When fluid is touching the tube start spraying until if doesn't spray any longer, you'll be at the level you need. do the same on other fork. this way you know they are the same.

Since your forks will be completely empty, just get a measuring cup that measures in cc's. Much easier and accurate.

 

[saaz]

The fork oil level is crucial on the air forks of a GS1000. Fluid volume is not particularly accurate, as you want to know the space left above the oil. Even in newer forks they always specify an oil level.

I use an old large syringe with some tubing on the end. Looks a lot like the Suzuki special tool in the manual!Put some tape at the right level, then use the syringe to suck up excess fluid.

I have done the forks on my 78 GS1000 since 1980. I also have two sets, one US and one European. Both quite different in oil viscosity and oil level setup requirements.

 

[bwringer]

The fork oil level is crucial on the air forks of a GS1000. Fluid volume is not particularly accurate, as you want to know the space left above the oil. Even in newer forks they always specify an oil level.

I use an old large syringe with some tubing on the end. Looks a lot like the Suzuki special tool in the manual!Put some tape at the right level, then use the syringe to suck up excess fluid.

I have done the forks on my 78 GS1000 since 1980. I also have two sets, one US and one European. Both quite different in oil viscosity and oil level setup requirements.

I was just about to post the exact same thing... fork oil LEVEL is crucial. Fork oil VOLUME is pretty unimportant. And the levels in both sides must be within 1mm of each other.

You can't just dump in a certain amount of oil and stop there. Dump in a little extra, then slurp out the excess to set a precise level.

I just helped a friend install Progressive springs, and the instruction sheet said that 140mm - 150mm (fork springs out, forks compressed) is a good all-purpose fork oil level setting for street bikes if you can't find the spec for your forks.