Need Oil filler plug O-ring

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Never had a problem with oil oozing out the top of the case at the cap until this year. I must have lost this O-ring when I changed the oil last winter. Since I don't really need anything else to make it worth placing an online parts order, and the closest dealer is further than I want to drive for this, is this something on which I can use an o-ring that my local good hardware store may have? does the part # reveal anything about the size? I have to stop there on the way home anyway.


O RING

​

09280-32005

O RING

​

09280-32005

 

[2BRacing]

The "32" in the second part of the part number indicates that the inner diameter of the O-ring is 32 mm. I just went out and measured the O-ring on the filler cap of my 850, and confirm the ID is 32 mm.

The thickness appears to be 2 mm, but the O-ring has been on there for some time, so it could have been slightly thicker originally.

A normal hardware store O-ring will work fine for that application. ​

I suggest that you take the filler cap inside the store with you, and select an O-ring that most closely fits the groove in the cap.

 

[rphillips]

Just wondering, are all "O" rings made of material that won't be deteriorated by oil or gas?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

...... take the filler cap inside the store with you, and select an O-ring that most closely fits the groove in the cap.

:hopelessness: Ok, ultra "Duh" moment for me, sometimes I just don't think. Thanks

 

[Grimly]

Just wondering, are all "O" rings made of material that won't be deteriorated by oil or gas?

There are different materials and grades, sure.
For that application, just about any of the common ones will work fine.
If it were being exposed to real internal heat or pressure or gas, I'd look closely at it.

 

[bwringer]

Most hardware store o-rings are made of Buna-N, which resists gas and oil and will work fine here.

For higher heat situations like intake boot o-rings, you need Viton o-rings (or the generic equivalent material). You can order these from McMaster-Carr or other industrial suppliers.

In this situation, a relatively large o-ring where the consequences of failure are nearly nonexistent, a rummage through any hardware store should fix you right up. That said, the o-rings are normally found in little plastic bags, so it might be hard to match things up.

Or, buy an o-ring assortment. It's a very handy thing to have around and the first time it saves you a trip to the hardware store, it'll be worth it.

 

[Guest]

they have a perfectly adequate asst. in nitrile at horror fright...

Most hardware store o-rings are made of Buna-N, which resists gas and oil and will work fine here.

For higher heat situations like intake boot o-rings, you need Viton o-rings (or the generic equivalent material). You can order these from McMaster-Carr or other industrial suppliers.

In this situation, a relatively large o-ring where the consequences of failure are nearly nonexistent, a rummage through any hardware store should fix you right up. That said, the o-rings are normally found in little plastic bags, so it might be hard to match things up.

Or, buy an o-ring assortment. It's a very handy thing to have around and the first time it saves you a trip to the hardware store, it'll be worth it.

 

[rphillips]

I thought they may be like rubber hoses, some were made petroleum resistant & others weren't, Just thought if you use one made for a water faucet, then remove the cap 3 mo. later & nothing remained except a ring of goooo, Oh shirt!!. I've learned something again, thanks.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

It tickles me to have anyone even bother to respond to this seemingly trivial, almost non-issue.
To continue my epic saga of the missing oil cap o-ring:
HW store had great assortment of loose o-rings and a helpful associate to help me find just the right size. (See pic below). Found one that fit into position 1, and another that slipped over it into position 2. Wasn?t sure which was right. Thanked the guy, bought both, and went home to see which was right. Smaller ring (1) didn?t let the cap close enough, I think, though I believe would seal enough. Bigger ring (2) only fits well into position 2 if the smaller ring is also there. Measuring the larger ring, it?s @30mm. So I?ll stop again tomorrow and look for the one that?s just right, closer to 32mm. Thanks for all the replies.

 

[bwringer]

Yep, the o-ring goes into the groove.


Hey, most of us in the US are kinda bored, and this is an easy problem...

 

[Grimly]

If push comes to shove and you can't find the exact size, you could take two of the larger ones that fit the groove and lengthen one by splicing in a short piece of the other. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) works well to join o-rings end to end if the ends are cut square-on.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If push comes to shove and you can't find the exact size, you could take two of the larger ones that fit the groove and lengthen one by splicing in a short piece of the other. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) works well to join o-rings end to end if the ends are cut square-on.

Thanks Dave. Never thought of that. My luck, the piece I glue would break off and end up in my oil sump next time I removed the cap. I will definitely keep that info in my book of tricks, though.

 

[Rob S.]

Groove 2 is the proper place, and only one ring should be used.

 

[Guest]

When I needed a new cap o ring, I went down to my nearest John Deere dealer. Found what I needed and got a couple spares. A hydraulic shop usually has all kinds of o-ring sizes.

 

[Brendan W]

32 x 2.2 mm. Picked one up at the local hydraulic/farm/eng supplier for a few cents.
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850g...e34-e39_model13500/o-ringd22-id32_0928032005/

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

One more trip to the hardware store for the right size o-ring (or the close enough English equivalent) got me sorted. No more weeping. Case closed. (Pun intended )

 

[bwringer]

32 x 2.2 mm. Picked one up at the local hydraulic/farm/eng supplier for a few cents.
https://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gs850g...e34-e39_model13500/o-ringd22-id32_0928032005/

You've inadvertently touched on a very weird little cultural difference. Here in the US, the vast majority of vehicles and machinery are metric, and have been for decades.

Inch stuff is still found in some agricultural equipment, some heavy equipment, and is used in construction. But the vast majority of the bolts most people turn are metric; the domestic car manufacturers switched to metric decades ago.

However, when you enter a hardware or farm store, you'll find gleaming, untouched rows upon rows of inch hardware. It stays neatly sorted because no one over needs it. Way in the back, if you're lucky, you might find a few jumbled, mostly empty drawers of desperately pawed-through metric hardware at eye-popping prices.

As far as metric o-rings, forget about it. All you'll find on the shelf in the US of A is inch o-rings (sold using an irritating number system instead of actual dimensions, but that's another rant for another day...) At least in the larger sizes of o-rings, you can usually find something close enough to work.

To get metric stuff like fasteners, o-rings, e-clips, etc. at reasonable prices, I usually have to order from an industrial supplier like McMaster-Carr. (But they usually only sell in large-ish quantities -- 25, 50 or 100). There's also a thriving little industrial supplier not far from my house called "Metric Seals, Inc." They also sell o-rings, and they've saved the day a few times with a desperately needed seal, but they're not really set up to sell by ones and twos very efficiently.

I keep several diameters of o-ring cord "in stock" in case I have to fabricate an o-ring or o-ring type seal, as well as several commonly needed sizes of o-rings.

I have the Harbor Freight o-ring assortments, but they're not always very helpful; I checked and neither the metric or inch assortments have an o-ring skinny enough for this application.

 

[Brendan W]

A lot of the so called metric stuff is actually inch with a different type of number attached. In spite of the passage of time plumbing is still resolutely inch and I can't see it changing anytime soon.

 

[fastbysuzuki]

If push comes to shove and you can't find the exact size, you could take two of the larger ones that fit the groove and lengthen one by splicing in a short piece of the other. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) works well to join o-rings end to end if the ends are cut square-on.

Not wanting to be contentious in an engineering workshop making and joining orings the joint is cut at 45 degree's to give a larger contact area. (Increased strength)

 

[Grimly]

Not wanting to be contentious in an engineering workshop making and joining orings the joint is cut at 45 degree's to give a larger contact area. (Increased strength)

Oh yes, I can see that, same as splicing a tape - who remembers that?
First o-ring making kit I had, had a jig for cutting and glueing the cord that was a simple straight cut at 90degrees.