T
Testarossa
Guest
Boy you know how to have fun! Where can I get that grease zert installed at. I need one. I got tendinitis in my elbow while I was doing the KZ. Looks like you're making good progress.
-
Required reading for all forum users!!!
Welcome!
Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.A note to new registrants...
All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.A Special Note about Email accounts!
DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.A note to old forum members...
I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.
Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...
-
Returning Visitors
If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.
If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.
S
SVSooke
Guest
Yeah I would to but decided to use this instead
Didn't want to do these by hand
Didn't want to do these by hand
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Yep, buffing will be on a Powered buffer wheel, just a long way to go before I am ready for that! The aluminum pieces of the GL1100 I did before this was in similar shape, white powder oxidation. started out wet sanding with 180 and worked my way down. I think it turned out OK...
81ZUKI75
Forum Mentor
At least good enough for a BOM recognition over at NGW
:clap:.Glad to see your skills applied to an old Zuki too
.
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
At least good enough for a BOM recognition over at NGW
Glad to see your skills applied to an old Zuki too
Uh-oh... cats out of the bag...Or did I brag about it here and forgot?
Do I know you 81ZUKI75 in another life?
81ZUKI75
Forum Mentor
Uh-oh... cats out of the bag...Or did I brag about it here and forgot?
Do I know you 81ZUKI75 in another life?
No no... I recognized your handle and your GL1000. I started lurking around over there last year (notaHarley) when I first started considering a "wang". Still considering but with two zooks already, I really don't have room for another bike
. Plus, I'm still on the fence as to wheter I want a nekkid ride or add a tourer to the fleet.Anyway, I'm looking forward to your results on the new-to-you "L".
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Man I remember you! That user name cracked me up. Glad to have an old aquaintance here! Well as long as you brought it up... 
T
Testarossa
Guest
I saw you guys "conversation" and wondered what's NGW? Well, I found your thread over there. You definitely have the perseverance to see this one (the GS) through. Nice work on the Goldwing. I have another neighbor selling a naked Goldwing. I'm guessing it's a GL1100, but not sure. I better stay away from him. My garage is about to explode as it is.
M
Motocrossx23
Guest
Looks like you have the exact same project as mine, both of ours are down to the frame and in a bunch of boxes lol. Mines an 81 though, only difference. Good luck with everything!
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Do it Testarossa! whats one more 
Motorcrossx23 - checked and subscribed to your thread, keep up the good work!
Motorcrossx23 - checked and subscribed to your thread, keep up the good work!
T
Testarossa
Guest
Do it Testarossa! whats one more
Motorcrossx23 - checked and subscribed to your thread, keep up the good work!
Only one problem with that. I can't post updates from the bottom of my grave. :-\\\
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Busy, busy , busy. The Wifey is out of town so I got some time to spare in the shop in the evenings
Yesterday I stayed after work and sandblasted some rusty hardware that would fit in the blasting cabinet. Battery tray, foot peg mount, side stand, brake and shifter levers. The remaining chrome was shot on all but the foot pad on the brake lever, so I will most likely mask that portion off because however I coat this part of the pedal, I am sure that would wear from use...
Then tonight when I got home I tackled the original rusty tank by using a method I originally saw on SOHC4.com and then again on dotheton.com. Rave reviews on both forums and my tank was unusable the way it was so what the heck.
Bought a bottle of "The Works" toilet bowel cleaner, box of baking soda, and rubbing alcohol. All items were $3.00 total.
I removed the sender and petcock, taped them off with duct tape and poured in the bottle of "The Works"
*WARNING* this stuff is an acid and should be treated as such. Rubber gloves and eye protection is recommended!
I swizzled around in the tank, stopping and supporting the tank in various positions . Removed the tape on the fill cap opening a few times and after about 45 minutes all was shiney... NO MORE RUST!
I then pulled the tape and drained the tank out the petcock hole. Dried with the area around the hole and re-taped everything. Mixed up a gallon of water with approx 3 tablespoons of the the Baking soda and poured it in the tank to neutralize the acid of "The Works". Swizzled it all around for a while the drained it.
Next, re-taping yet again, I poured in the rubbing alcohol a final rinse and absorb the remaining water. After dumping that I removed All the tape and put a hair dryer in the fill neck and let it blow until the tank was warm to the touch to dry everything out (approx 15 minutes).
The final step re-taped it one last time on the pet cock and sending unit holes and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil I had. The I reinstalled the fill cap and swished it around to coat the entire surface to prevent it from flash rusting.
It is now sitting on a white towel so I can tell if the welded seam has any pin holes by the tell-tale pink marks from the Marvel Mystery Oil.
Sorry, no pics but trust me, this works GREAT, I was left with a shiny galvanized appearance inside the previously unusably rusted tank.
Yesterday I stayed after work and sandblasted some rusty hardware that would fit in the blasting cabinet. Battery tray, foot peg mount, side stand, brake and shifter levers. The remaining chrome was shot on all but the foot pad on the brake lever, so I will most likely mask that portion off because however I coat this part of the pedal, I am sure that would wear from use...
Then tonight when I got home I tackled the original rusty tank by using a method I originally saw on SOHC4.com and then again on dotheton.com. Rave reviews on both forums and my tank was unusable the way it was so what the heck.
Bought a bottle of "The Works" toilet bowel cleaner, box of baking soda, and rubbing alcohol. All items were $3.00 total.
I removed the sender and petcock, taped them off with duct tape and poured in the bottle of "The Works"
*WARNING* this stuff is an acid and should be treated as such. Rubber gloves and eye protection is recommended!
I swizzled around in the tank, stopping and supporting the tank in various positions . Removed the tape on the fill cap opening a few times and after about 45 minutes all was shiney... NO MORE RUST!
I then pulled the tape and drained the tank out the petcock hole. Dried with the area around the hole and re-taped everything. Mixed up a gallon of water with approx 3 tablespoons of the the Baking soda and poured it in the tank to neutralize the acid of "The Works". Swizzled it all around for a while the drained it.
Next, re-taping yet again, I poured in the rubbing alcohol a final rinse and absorb the remaining water. After dumping that I removed All the tape and put a hair dryer in the fill neck and let it blow until the tank was warm to the touch to dry everything out (approx 15 minutes).
The final step re-taped it one last time on the pet cock and sending unit holes and poured in some Marvel Mystery Oil I had. The I reinstalled the fill cap and swished it around to coat the entire surface to prevent it from flash rusting.
It is now sitting on a white towel so I can tell if the welded seam has any pin holes by the tell-tale pink marks from the Marvel Mystery Oil.
Sorry, no pics but trust me, this works GREAT, I was left with a shiny galvanized appearance inside the previously unusably rusted tank.
Last edited:
81ZUKI75
Forum Mentor
Cool...I've been having a hard time locating "washing soda" to try elecrolysis on a spare tank for my T-model so I may try this instead.
It's funny that I just came across SOHC4 today (researching a K6 for a possible project) :-\\\.
Thanks for sharing...
Zuki, it's in the same aisle as the regular laundry soap. I would have picked up some but I'm a little low on cash so I'm doing it with baking soda this weekend on my footpeg mounts.
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
81zuki75... This is what you are looking for, like cowboyup3371 said it should be in the laundry detergents aisle.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_dKecubcjILM/SxKUz7pgQXI/AAAAAAAAAy4/Xjmzit6Qtok/s1600/washing+soda.jpg
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
HA-Ha! Ok I can take a hint...
I scanned the line drawing out of the manual and have been changing things up a little with MS Paint. Easier to click "undo" if I make a mistake than to try and re-weld something back on.
Lowered gauges and staighter bars, no passenger peg triangles and a seat that's Bratstyle. I shortened the rear fender a little instead of removing it all together, so I think I'll keep the rear frame extensions for the mounting.
Happy with the look, today I introduced the frame to mister Sawz-all and removed the peg / exhaust mount triangles, the inner splash gaurd and helmet lock mounts. Then I took my rotory burr then a sanding disk in the diegrinder and cleaned up the welds remains.
I plan on running without the centerstand but sure like using it to service the bikes so I kept those mounts on, I can put the stand on and raise the bike on that when maintenance requires it.
Previous builds I sandblasted the frame, but that was in the summertime, too cold outside here to pull that off now. I have been sanding it but it is slow going. I will probably end up laying cardboard in the shop and trying to strip it myself... but Monday I will call around and get prices for getting this frame dipped.
I scanned the line drawing out of the manual and have been changing things up a little with MS Paint. Easier to click "undo" if I make a mistake than to try and re-weld something back on.
Lowered gauges and staighter bars, no passenger peg triangles and a seat that's Bratstyle. I shortened the rear fender a little instead of removing it all together, so I think I'll keep the rear frame extensions for the mounting.
Happy with the look, today I introduced the frame to mister Sawz-all and removed the peg / exhaust mount triangles, the inner splash gaurd and helmet lock mounts. Then I took my rotory burr then a sanding disk in the diegrinder and cleaned up the welds remains.
I plan on running without the centerstand but sure like using it to service the bikes so I kept those mounts on, I can put the stand on and raise the bike on that when maintenance requires it.
Previous builds I sandblasted the frame, but that was in the summertime, too cold outside here to pull that off now. I have been sanding it but it is slow going. I will probably end up laying cardboard in the shop and trying to strip it myself... but Monday I will call around and get prices for getting this frame dipped.
Last edited:
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
Wasn't very patient waiting to call around. This morning I got the heater going in the shop and decided to give it a test and see how easy the paint removed with a partial gallon of Stripper I had left over... and next thing you know it is noon and I am cleaning up the remains!
I need to go get some etching primer and get thing sealed up before it gets humid out!
I need to go get some etching primer and get thing sealed up before it gets humid out!
H
Hoosier Daddy
Guest
I've been doing a lot of disassembly, cleaning, sandblasting, and painting of the old parts. How do you paint when it single digits? easy preheat the parts and paint in the "Mens Room" here at home, run out in the garage and shoot a coat, then bring them back in to the heater and let it cure. Swear it gets about 90 in my little bathroom.
Big news is I picked up a Kerker header with a SuperTrapp tunable muffler from Delbert24 here. Looks a little rusty on the back side of the pipes but has no dents. I am so stoked.. Thanks Pal!
Once it gets here, if the the chrome doesn't clean up I will remove /mask off the muffler and sandblast the header. Then shoot it with black high-temp paint at work and cure it in the Paint Departments bake oven there. Being a Maintenance Super has it's perks!
Yes, a frame fits in there quite nicely!
Heat wave here tonight, up in the 20's... tomorrow it's supposed to get above freezing! I have been out in the shop with Simple Green and a scrub-brush working on the engine. Seems to be cleaning up nicely. Maybe if I get off work in time considering it's a Saturday I can take it out of the shop and actually rinse it off!
Big news is I picked up a Kerker header with a SuperTrapp tunable muffler from Delbert24 here. Looks a little rusty on the back side of the pipes but has no dents. I am so stoked.. Thanks Pal!
Once it gets here, if the the chrome doesn't clean up I will remove /mask off the muffler and sandblast the header. Then shoot it with black high-temp paint at work and cure it in the Paint Departments bake oven there. Being a Maintenance Super has it's perks!
Yes, a frame fits in there quite nicely!
Heat wave here tonight, up in the 20's... tomorrow it's supposed to get above freezing! I have been out in the shop with Simple Green and a scrub-brush working on the engine. Seems to be cleaning up nicely. Maybe if I get off work in time considering it's a Saturday I can take it out of the shop and actually rinse it off!
Last edited:
