New-2-Me '80 GS750L

[Guest]

Man I must be blind, I only just found your thread over here!

 

[SVSooke]

Man I must be blind, I only just found your thread over here!

Your white cane is in the mail

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

....that would be the Blue font in my sig! LOL

The Brother-in-Law wanted a replacement windshied for his bike so I ordered it from Motorcycle-Superstore on my account and had a 10% coupon, so for the savings I was able to thow this in for FREE!

I plan on eliminating the factory filter box and replacing it with the Uni mated to the airbox. After a lot of searching I went for the straight, 2 1/2" to mate to the stock air box's 60mm neck. Guess with this and the Kerker header, it would be best to install a Dyno-jet stage-I kit in my freshly rebuilt carbs after all.

Tank is ready for paint. I took some JB Weld and filled in the badge mounts after roughing up the area with a 60g disc in the die grinder. Used the same 2" disc to shape it smooth and them some premium quality Bondo Gold on that area and what was left of the half dozen or so dents that the Ding-King didn't quite remove. Then filled the emblem holes in the side covers with epoxy and micro-ballons, sanded smooth. Then shot everything in white primer and sanded with 400g. Paint is bought, Duplicolors White and "Intense Blue Metalic"... Then the temps dropped and rain hit, even when it isn't raining it's over 90% humidity, supposed to go on till Saturday.

 

[Guest]

Thanks Greg, that'll come in handy!

Hoosier... just a stage 1 kit? How free is the kerker and the Uni? And well done for scoring it for free

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

This is where my Suzuki Noob-ness comes into play, I have researched it and thought without any internal engine mods and without running individual pods it would be what I should use. According to Dynojets website tech description...

Stage 1 kits are fully adjustable to allow the use of a well designed aftermarket pipes and stock replacement air filters like K&N.

I wish they offered a Stage 2 in my application as it's description matches perfectly!

Stage 2 Jet Kits
Intended for motorcycles with a stock or mildly tuned engine using a well designed aftermarket pipe with a modified airbox and a stock replacement air filter. Stage 2 kits are designed for applications where individual filters cannot be installed and for applications where airbox modification improves the engine's performance.

But unfortunatly ...NO. Maybe it would warrant a call to their tech support before making the puchase to see if they could offer best advise for me.

 

[Flyboy]

Ah, yes, the ball is cloudy, wait it's clearing, yes, yes, I see a hand full of jets, and plug chops in your future.........

"White and "Intense Blue Metalic"

sounds like it is going to be looker for sure, Get that paint on already, we need to see, we need to see, c'mon c'mon we want eye candy. :dancing:

 

[Guest]

To be on the safe and cost-effective side I think I would get the Stage 3 kit and start with Stage 1 setup (i.e. the needles and one size up on the main jets). If that doesn't end up being enough you can then experiment with other bits in the kit (larger vacuum holes, main air jet restrictors and larger main fuel jets).

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Yes, Yes... more research is needed. I am not "ready" for the air filter yet, but the timing was right to snag it up for free.
When I contact Dynojet, that's more or less how the conversation is going to go...
By description I am looking for a stage 2 kit, describe my mods and ask if it would be better to start with a stage 1, install the big jet (120) and be able to raise the needle a notch, or a stage 3, install the smaller jet (124) and lower the needle as needed. Depending on their recomendations, I can pick up a #40 drill bit and start small on the slide hole and then enlarge to the #30 that comes with the stage 3 kit if needed.
Fun Fun! But that's a ways off before I awaken this beast from it's slumber. But hopefully not TOO far off!

 

[Guest]

Hey at least you have a stage 3 kit available... 450's are a stage 1 only dammit! I want Dynojet goodness to go with my Dynatek, Ikon, and Tranzac goodness dammit! Best stop my tantrum now... haha

So have you painted yet?

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Rain, rain, go away!
Day 3 of it, even if it does stop it will probably be too humid this week with all this standing water.... good news is we aren't butt hole deep to a tall giraffe like they are on the East Coast here in the states this morning!
DAMN!

 

[Guest]

Rain, rain, go away!
Day 3 of it, even if it does stop it will probably be too humid this week with all this standing water.... good news is we aren't butt hole deep to a tall giraffe like they are on the East Coast here in the states this morning!
DAMN!

So I guess that's "bugger" and "excellent" all in the one sentence hey?

I do feel sorry for them though, we just went through that earlier this year, thankfully it didn't hit us here at our house though...

 

[SVSooke]

Rain, rain, go away!
Day 3 of it, even if it does stop it will probably be too humid this week with all this standing water.... good news is we aren't butt hole deep to a tall giraffe like they are on the East Coast here in the states this morning!
DAMN!

Sound like winter here,or earlier this "summer".Finally getting a nice strecth of weather.:dancing:

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Well today (Sunday) didn't start out too bad and by afternoon it was near 80 degrees and the Hygrometer read 62% so I put two cans of the white laquer in the sink filled with warm water. Gave eveything a final wipe down, threw covers on the bikes then went in and grabbed the paint and out to the shop I went. 6 coats later and this is the first stages outcome. Almost looks too good wet sand. Some very slight orange peel on the one side cover but it will wet sand out for the next step... like I said, this is only the first stage... Go ahead, touch it ... it's dry.

 

[SVSooke]

Hmmmmm...Verrrryyyy interestingggg

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Good news is now some of the pressure is off, I need to let it cure and de-gas for several days then I can hit it with the 400g wet sand, and wait for the next batch of "Nice" days to lay out the pattern then shoot the blue.
Then more waiting...
sanding... then the clear.
Guessing about 2 weeks at this rate!!!

 

[Flyboy]

Jeeeez, look at that, even before sanding, this is going to be special for sure.
I hope your weather holds for the next two weeks, I need to see this transformation.
Looking stunning so far.

 

[Guest]

Oooooh pretty! Finally got a start hey? Good stuff!

So tell me... for a complete noobie wanna-be painter (me), does a paint job really take that amount of time every time?

I'm thinking with mine I'll need to prime, lay down the maroon base coat, then the white stripes, then the clear coat.

Wondering if I need to take two weeks off work or if I can get away with one... I can potentially do the prep work and primer before hand...

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Well, patience is a virtue when it comes to a decent paint job... Some times you can knock them out in a week, but I did not have Mother Nature cooperating with the rain. It also depends on the paint. Some paints will heave and wrinkle if you lay another coat before it is completely cured. Even though it's hard on the exterior, inside the thinner used is still evaporating off called "Degassing". Some cans even say to recoat every ten minutes, but if not within one hour, you must wait a week before the next coat. (!) So I always let one color cure as long as possible before wet sanding and applying the next color or the clear coat.
Here is also a tip, paint light colors first then darker colors. you will get better coverage. My tank will be blue with white stripes. So I will have better outcome panting the white first, masking off my stripes then painting the blue. Depending on your striping you may want to do the same. It will be easier than trying to cover the maroon with white and get complete, even coverage with no bleed through. Plus the white base coat will really make my "Intense Blue" well....INTENSE.
Even though paint seems to be opaque, whats underneath does show. Usually with darker colors you want a darker primer to make them appear more "Deep", and brighter colors a light colored primer makes them "Pop".
Don't know if "Non Members" have access but I know you can read this DoTheTon Rattle Can Bling! a 20 page thread chucked FULL of other great tips, some I knew, some I've learned. AWESOME resource!

 

[Guest]

Well, patience is a virtue when it comes to a decent paint job... Some times you can knock them out in a week, but I did not have Mother Nature cooperating with the rain. It also depends on the paint. Some paints will heave and wrinkle if you lay another coat before it is completely cured. Even though it's hard on the exterior, inside the thinner used is still evaporating off called "Degassing". Some cans even say to recoat every ten minutes, but if not within one hour, you must wait a week before the next coat. (!) So I always let one color cure as long as possible before wet sanding and applying the next color or the clear coat.
Here is also a tip, paint light colors first then darker colors. you will get better coverage. My tank will be blue with white stripes. So I will have better outcome panting the white first, masking off my stripes then painting the blue. Depending on your striping you may want to do the same. It will be easier than trying to cover the maroon with white and get complete, even coverage with no bleed through. Plus the white base coat will really make my "Intense Blue" well....INTENSE.
Even though paint seems to be opaque, whats underneath does show. Usually with darker colors you want a darker primer to make them appear more "Deep", and brighter colors a light colored primer makes them "Pop".
Don't know if "Non Members" have access but I know you can read this DoTheTon Rattle Can Bling! a 20 page thread chucked FULL of other great tips, some I knew, some I've learned. AWESOME resource!

Ok that does make some sense.

I was thinking maroon then white as I haven't decided if I want the stripes on the front guard or not.

Everything else does make a lot of sense, and I guess the best option is just to talk to the people wherever I get the paint from to determine the best course of action...

And I'm a member there remember

Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

 

[Hoosier Daddy]

Ok that does make some sense.

...And I'm a member there remember

Can't wait to see how yours turns out!

Thanks pal! and yea, I remember seeing you there once or twice . That's why I posted the linky for you... but didn't know if others reading this thread can go there.
SO, on another note, the Uni filter was here when I go home... BONUS!
BUT I had a BEAR of a time trying to fit the air box back onto the carb rack tonight, wound up taking the carbs back off and fitting the airbox to it on the bench to try and expand the boots back out to shape. The more I played with them, the more pliable they became.
If you look back to the beginning of this build, The PO had a tough time and didn't have the bottom of the boots on right. I was able to get everthing in place on the bench and figure I will let it set that way overnight before trying to remount everything to the engine tomorrow.
And the 2 1/2" filter fit the 2 3/8" (60mm) airbox just fine, I was able to snug it down just like they said it would. Not even cranking on the clamp bolt, just snug and I could pick up the air box and the carb rack buy the filter so it sould be fine once it is all together.
Pics once I get it all installed.