I
incarceration
Guest
Just got a new battery, still isn't sparking on the left side. 
I am running out of ideas.
I am running out of ideas.
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Have you gone through any electrical tests? What inspections have you done of your wiring? Does the problem follow if you swap coils? Basically, what troubleshooting have you done or are you just throwing parts at the bike? You say in a previous post that you haven't dipped the carbs or replaced the intake boots. Are you even getting fuel to the carbs and therefore into the cylinders? It would be a lot easier if you stepped back and did the basic maintenance instead of worrying about getting it running.
I
incarceration
Guest
I've done several things I could think of and could think of HOW to do, all related to the non-existing spark on the left side.
I've swapped the plugs from right to left to see if it was the plugs - no change
I've tested the voltage from the negative terminal of battery to the positive lead of the LEFT coil, it read ~11V
I removed the boot over the left spark plug and trimmed the wire back and put the boot back on attempting to give a better connection; I've also done the same on the spark plug wire going into the left coil from the spark plug and spark plug boot
I've applied dielectric grease to the connector coming from the signal generator on the right side of the crank case and then also on the connector connecting to the igniter
I took the battery back and had it checked, and then replaced under warranty
I would like to know how to check for proper functionality of the signal generator and coils but I'm not sure how.
I want to check functionality of the left coil itself. I also would like to know if there's a way to check functionality of the igniter.
I've swapped the plugs from right to left to see if it was the plugs - no change
I've tested the voltage from the negative terminal of battery to the positive lead of the LEFT coil, it read ~11V
I removed the boot over the left spark plug and trimmed the wire back and put the boot back on attempting to give a better connection; I've also done the same on the spark plug wire going into the left coil from the spark plug and spark plug boot
I've applied dielectric grease to the connector coming from the signal generator on the right side of the crank case and then also on the connector connecting to the igniter
I took the battery back and had it checked, and then replaced under warranty
I would like to know how to check for proper functionality of the signal generator and coils but I'm not sure how.
I want to check functionality of the left coil itself. I also would like to know if there's a way to check functionality of the igniter.
I know some people here recommend swapping the coil connectors and see if the issue follows. What is the battery voltage at normal, with the key on, and while you are starting it? What is the battery voltage at each of the coil connectors when the key is on and when you are trying to start it? Remove the harness from the bike and go through each and every connection to clean them up. Inspect the wiring and make sure nothing is cut open where it shouldn't be.
Knowing what condition all of that is in will help the smarter electrical guys then me give you enough guidance to help fix the problem.
Knowing what condition all of that is in will help the smarter electrical guys then me give you enough guidance to help fix the problem.
I
incarceration
Guest
I believe the battery voltage when the key is on and while starting it, at the negative terminal of the battery and positive terminal of the left coil was ~11V. I didn't check the voltage of just the 2 leads on the coil. I'll do that tomorrow.
Remove the ENTIRE wiring harness? Isn't that a bit excessive (I know right now I have nothing, but that seems fairly excessive considering it worked just fine a couple weeks ago as far as the starting\ignition process?)
I appreciate all suggestions though and I will considering it tomorrow after removing the tank and seat again.
Is there anything I can check with the signal generator\'point contacts' on the right side of the engine case? How do I check the CDI\igniter for functionality?
Remove the ENTIRE wiring harness? Isn't that a bit excessive (I know right now I have nothing, but that seems fairly excessive considering it worked just fine a couple weeks ago as far as the starting\ignition process?)
I appreciate all suggestions though and I will considering it tomorrow after removing the tank and seat again.
Is there anything I can check with the signal generator\'point contacts' on the right side of the engine case? How do I check the CDI\igniter for functionality?
Instead of worrying about the signal generator and igniter right now, start from the very beginning. Yes, those can go bad but without knowing what every thing else is doing, all you will do is grasp at straws. With all the electrical problems I have had, and there have been a few, everything has come back to the wiring and the battery in some form or another.
Don't just believe, check it with your multimeter and write down the numbers. If you are dropping to 11v when you turn the key on and start the bike then you're not putting out enough juice to get started. You need at least 12.0v to really push everything. Go through the stator papers and read up on some of the different tests.
No, removing the harness is not excessive in my opinion (I've had to do it three times now) as you'll have an easier time inspecting each of your connectors to see if any are corroded. I have learned corroded or even badly crimped connectors will cause problems.
Without a known good baseline to start troubleshooting from, all you'll keep doing is throwing money at the bike and hoping it will fix itself. Start over, do the basic maintenance that has been suggested, and then start worrying about the other stuff.
Don't just believe, check it with your multimeter and write down the numbers. If you are dropping to 11v when you turn the key on and start the bike then you're not putting out enough juice to get started. You need at least 12.0v to really push everything. Go through the stator papers and read up on some of the different tests.
No, removing the harness is not excessive in my opinion (I've had to do it three times now) as you'll have an easier time inspecting each of your connectors to see if any are corroded. I have learned corroded or even badly crimped connectors will cause problems.
Without a known good baseline to start troubleshooting from, all you'll keep doing is throwing money at the bike and hoping it will fix itself. Start over, do the basic maintenance that has been suggested, and then start worrying about the other stuff.
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