New tires

[Griffin]

I have identically-sized rims on my GS650E. I run Shinko 712 tires on it, a 100/90-19 up front and a 110/90/18 on the rear. They work tremendously well, and you can get a set at Bike Bandit or Dennis Kirk for under $110 shipped.

By the way, Bike Bandit is high on oem parts, but not on tires and other aftermarket accessories. I just checked, the above tire set at Dennis Kirk is $107, at Bike Bandit it is $101.

 

[Guest]

Are the rims tubed or tubeless? Mine has a tube type on the front rim, and a tubeless on the back. Both appear to be original mag wheels (the front one had 10 79 stamped on the center).

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Food for thought. When you do get around to buying tires, are you planning on mounting and balancing them yourself. I’m going to guess the answer is no. Is so, if you buy tires online you’re going to have to pay someone to mount and balance them. Maybe I’m fortunate to have a really great motorcycle mechanic in my area that deals lots of different brands of tires. I did my research and knew I wanted Shinzo 705s before I called him, but he got me what I wanted, cleaned up my rims on the inside, mounted and balances the tires I bought through him and didn’t charge me too much to do it I thought. Same guy did a wonderful job cleaning/rebuilding my carbs a few years ago. I’ve become comfortable doing most of the wrenching on my bike. But carb cleaning and tire mounting are 2 things I just would rather have someone else do. I found a guy I’ve come to trust. I hope you can too.

If there’s such a shop near you, maybe talk to someone there, and get some opinions on tire brands/types for your proposed riding conditions and prices. Opinions and quotes are free.

 

[Guest]

Food for thought. When you do get around to buying tires, are you planning on mounting and balancing them yourself. I?m going to guess the answer is no. Is so, if you buy tires online you?re going to have to pay someone to mount and balance them. Maybe I?m fortunate to have a really great motorcycle mechanic in my area that deals lots of different brands of tires. I did my research and knew I wanted Shinzo 705s before I called him, but he got me what I wanted, cleaned up my rims on the inside, mounted and balances the tires I bought through him and didn?t charge me too much to do it I thought. Same guy did a wonderful job cleaning/rebuilding my carbs a few years ago. I?ve become comfortable doing most of the wrenching on my bike. But carb cleaning and tire mounting are 2 things I just would rather have someone else do. I found a guy I?ve come to trust. I hope you can too.

If there?s such a shop near you, maybe talk to someone there, and get some opinions on tire brands/types for your proposed riding conditions and prices. Opinions and quotes are free.

I plan on doing them myself. I've heard that putting tubeless tires on tube-type rims removes that extra redundancy in the bead, and as such isn't advised.

 

[LAB3]

I plan on doing them myself. I've heard that putting tubeless tires on tube-type rims removes that extra redundancy in the bead, and as such isn't advised.

I'm sure others will chime in, my understanding is that tubes where used on early cast type wheels because they where porous and didn't quite seal well. If I had cast wheels on my bike I would buy a set of tire irons and use balance beads, one heck of a lot cheaper than paying someone to unmount the old tires then mount and balance the new ones. Last year I used balance beads and rode about 17k miles with no problems.

Have a new set of tires ready to put on and am going to try out Ride-On tire sealer and balancer this time, from what I've read it will automatically plug hold up to 1/4" and provide above average balancing in my spoke type rims. That would solve the problem of any sort of leaking on a porous cast rim.

This product is about $30 total for the product, balance beads are about $12. Having a little less worry about punctures and good balance on a set of VERY expensive tires (Continental Trail Attack 2) is why I decided to switch.

 

[Guest]

I'm sure others will chime in, my understanding is that tubes where used on early cast type wheels because they where porous and didn't quite seal well. If I had cast wheels on my bike I would buy a set of tire irons and use balance beads, one heck of a lot cheaper than paying someone to unmount the old tires then mount and balance the new ones. Last year I used balance beads and rode about 17k miles with no problems.

Have a new set of tires ready to put on and am going to try out Ride-On tire sealer and balancer this time, from what I've read it will automatically plug hold up to 1/4" and provide above average balancing in my spoke type rims. That would solve the problem of any sort of leaking on a porous cast rim.

This product is about $30 total for the product, balance beads are about $12. Having a little less worry about punctures and good balance on a set of VERY expensive tires (Continental Trail Attack 2) is why I decided to switch.

So, go with tube-types tires. What type of tube should I get? I haven't seen in the service manual yet. And all the tires I'm seeing are tubeless.
EDIT: So far, only turning up fronts for tube-type. Should I buy tubeless and grab some of that sealant as well?
EDIT 2: Reading further, tubeless tires can be fitted with tubes. But they have to be a specific type (MT, rather than WM), or else it will cause more wear. How do I find out what rim type I have?

 

[LAB3]

So, go with tube-types tires. What type of tube should I get? I haven't seen in the service manual yet. And all the tires I'm seeing are tubeless.
EDIT: So far, only turning up fronts for tube-type. Should I buy tubeless and grab some of that sealant as well?
EDIT 2: Reading further, tubeless tires can be fitted with tubes. But they have to be a specific type (MT, rather than WM), or else it will cause more wear. How do I find out what rim type I have?

MT is a tire size, not a type of tire. I'm not sure what a WM is. As a rule tubes can be used in tubeless tires, there's no reason to overthink it! Those who have used the Shinko 712 seem to be pretty satisfied with them and I've have good luck with the Shinko 777 which is slightly higher priced. Overall Shinko has a good reputation with a great price.

 

[Guest]

I bought some Shinko 712s, gonna bite the bullet and try it without tubes. If it doesn't work, then all I have to do is buy some tubes... hopefully.

 

[Tom R]

I?ve done it both ways on tube type rims. I did have to put air in the tire every so often without tubes, whereas I?m running tubes now just because I was tired of that. I?m not sure if it?s porous castings or its just hard to get a good seal with the valve stem (it?s not machined flat on the tube type rims). Hard to say because if also run without tubes in the past and they wouldn?t leak at all.

btw - make sure you get the right valve stems.

 

[Guest]

I?ve done it both ways on tube type rims. I did have to put air in the tire every so often without tubes, whereas I?m running tubes now just because I was tired of that. I?m not sure if it?s porous castings or its just hard to get a good seal with the valve stem (it?s not machined flat on the tube type rims). Hard to say because if also run without tubes in the past and they wouldn?t leak at all.

btw - make sure you get the right valve stems.

I don't know which tubes or stems I need. I can pick the size and I can pick the type. I have no idea what type I need.

 

[Tom R]

You get one or the other. Tubes will say what size rim/ tire they’re for. As for the right stems.... it’s been a while, so I forget off hand, maybe another member can chime in.
how do you plan on removing the old tires and mounting the new ones? You caaaaan spoon them on, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Especially if you’ve never done it before. You’ll likely pinch the tube. Plus you’ll need to balance them.

 

[Guest]

You get one or the other. Tubes will say what size rim/ tire they?re for. As for the right stems.... it?s been a while, so I forget off hand, maybe another member can chime in.
how do you plan on removing the old tires and mounting the new ones? You caaaaan spoon them on, but I wouldn?t recommend it. Especially if you?ve never done it before. You?ll likely pinch the tube. Plus you?ll need to balance them.

I bought some general stems, if they don't work, I can return them. I did get some tire spoons, as a full bead breaker was rather expensive... I've done everything so far by watching videos.
I can always take them to my local mechanic and ask for their help. As for a balancer, two A-frame jacks and a metal pole.

 

[LAB3]

I bought some general stems, if they don't work, I can return them. I did get some tire spoons, as a full bead breaker was rather expensive... I've done everything so far by watching videos.
I can always take them to my local mechanic and ask for their help. As for a balancer, two A-frame jacks and a metal pole.

Spooning tires on isn't that hard. As to pinching tubes it helps to put some air in them, just enough to make the tube take it's shape. I'm still not convinced you even need them. Slip one side of the tire onto the rim, put the tube in, add some air then complete mounting the tire by sliding the other bead onto the rim.

There's no reason you can't run balance beads in tubes, I've put in plenty of miles on with them that way with no problems. I'm not against balancing the old fashion way, I'm just avoiding buying or building tools I don't need and spending time that doesn't put me any further ahead in the end.

 

[Guest]

Spooning tires on isn't that hard. As to pinching tubes it helps to put some air in them, just enough to make the tube take it's shape. I'm still not convinced you even need them. Slip one side of the tire onto the rim, put the tube in, add some air then complete mounting the tire by sliding the other bead onto the rim.

There's no reason you can't run balance beads in tubes, I've put in plenty of miles on with them that way with no problems. I'm not against balancing the old fashion way, I'm just avoiding buying or building tools I don't need and spending time that doesn't put me any further ahead in the end.

That is true. But can I run tires without tubes in these rims, or should I grab some sealant too?

 

[Gorminrider]

spooning tube tires on is usually easier than Tubeless. EXCEPT pinching a new inner-tube is a real hazard with tube tires- it's even harder with tubeless.

I'd
A) put tubed tires on with new tubes. Nothing wrong with tube tires for general use.
B) put tubeless on with inner tubes unless you are going to race (tube tires run hotter, I've heard) and get a professional to do it for you unless you are willing to learn and damage the rim etc . At the least, buy 2 tubes.
C) investigate the multiple threads where people convert the alloy rims to tubeless by drilling a new "land" for the tubeless valve...

 

[LAB3]

That is true. But can I run tires without tubes in these rims, or should I grab some sealant too?

Here's the way I see it. You're trying to get a bike going with little experience and not much money to work with.

The people who own bikes with the early cast rims like yours tell us that they don't need to use tubes but have to check the tire pressure often because of leaks. It might be because the rims leak a little or it might be because the valves for cast wheels don't seal well.

The rims are good good enough to use without tubes but you need to use valve stems made for cast wheels since the valve stems are molded directly into the tubes.

There is no problem with the sidewall of a tubeless tire sealing on the cast wheel. There is also no problem with the tire bead staying seated on the rim.

You already have a set of new tires to mount on your bike, so that cost has been covered.

Two tubes will cost about $30 and will have the air valves molded into them.

Two air valves that are made for cast wheels will cost $10 or less.

You will have to buy or build a balancing stand. You will also need to find the weights that you will need to balance the tires. This will cost money to buy or build the stand and get the weights you need. You will also be doing this for the first time so there's more ways for things to go wrong.

A package of balance beads will cost about 10 to 12 dollars and will automatically do the balancing for you as you ride.

Two bottles of Ride-On balancer and sealer will cost about $30 and will balance the tires as you ride plus give you some insurance against punctures.

The lowest priced option is to not use tubes, install tire valves for cast wheels and use balance beads to balance the tires. It will cost $10 or less for the air valves and about $12 for the beads.

The next lowest option is to not use tubes, install the air valves for cast wheels and use Ride-On sealer/balancer. The valves will be $10 and the Ride-On will cost $30

If you use tubes it will cost another $30 to buy the tubes.

It will cost $12 for beads, $30 for Ride-On

You can make/buy a truing stand plus wheel weights and learn something new but will have a more difficult time getting your bike on the road.

So, the lowest priced and easiest option is to not use tubes, install air valves for cast wheels and use balance beads to balance your wheels. You will need to keep closer attention to your tire pressure. This would be the decision I would make where my money was limited.

If you want to pay less attention to air pressure and give yourself some insurance against punctures then you should use Ride-On sealer/balancer, this is the decision I would make if spending another $18 wasn't a big issue for me.

Having to buy tubes then make or buy a truing stand plus wheel weights will probably be the highest priced option with more things to go wrong and more new things to learn. This would be the least attractive choice for me.

 

[Guest]

It's more the lack of experience. I've only changed tires on bicycles. Never had to deal with porous rims that might/might not leak air. Only had tubes, so didn't have to worry about the spokes leaking air.

 

[Grimly]

You can address porous rims by simply cleaning them properly and giving them a coat of paint inside.

 

[Guest]

The porous rims thing is the word on the street, buuuuut, has anyone who has converted to tubeless ever actually had a rim that was holey enough to matter? The 3 rims I've converted were all solid....many, many others have converted but as far as I remember no one has had an issue that they reported here

 

[Gorminrider]

You can address porous rims by simply cleaning them properly and giving them a coat of paint inside.

need add..but be careful. If a homemade paint job scrapes off and bits get between bead and tire, it can be trouble.
I wouldn't -I have trouble believing air leaks through the aluminum rims anyways.