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New to me GS1000G

Use left-handed drill bits. If you're lucky the drill will bite and back out the remainder of the screw.

It looks like there may be some screw left sticking out of the hole. You might try slotting it with a Dremel and back it out with a screwdriver. Even if you have to slot the aluminum a bit. If you have a welder you might try welding a nut to it. The heat helps loosen it in the aluminum too. Of course, you have to be careful not to melt the aluminum...
 
I did "bench sync" them as best as I thought how to. I used the throttle adjustment knob and a smooth paper clip to get the #3 carb set so the paper clip would just slide through with a slight resistance. I then adjusted the other carbs so the clip would slide through at about the same resistance. I thought of using a thin feeler gauge instead of the paper clip but decided otherwise since that would have required me to go out into the very cold garage.;)

Any suggestions on how to get that nasty broken screw out?:pray: I can just barely get a drill in there to drill it out if I have to.

Just waiting on the weather to break. It's getting down right nasty here in Atlanta. Not riding weather for sure. May not look like much to you northern folks, but it's all ice since it's been nothing but freezing rain and sleet. No snow yet but they're calling for 6 to 10 inches by tomorrow morning. Trees are already snapping from the wind and weight of the ice.:eek:

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Looks like a typical week day storm to us.
 
Use left-handed drill bits. If you're lucky the drill will bite and back out the remainder of the screw.

It looks like there may be some screw left sticking out of the hole. You might try slotting it with a Dremel and back it out with a screwdriver. Even if you have to slot the aluminum a bit. If you have a welder you might try welding a nut to it. The heat helps loosen it in the aluminum too. Of course, you have to be careful not to melt the aluminum...

alternate heat and penetrating oil for a few days, then drill it

G exhaust is different from the E, a bit shorter
 
alternate heat and penetrating oil for a few days, then drill it
G exhaust is different from the E, a bit shorter

Will do. Wish me luck!

Things done so far:

Removed and rebuilt carbs
Removed the Vetter fairing
Replaced battery
Repaired the reversed clutch safety switch
Changed oil and filter
Replaced neutral indicator light bulb
Check compression (125 to 130 cold without carbs installed)


Items on the list that still need to arrive for the initial phase of the project:

New intake boots and O-rings
Front master rebuild kit
Front master reservoir kit
Front caliper pistons and seals
Complete headlight and turn signal assembly with mounting brackets
Front brake light switch assembly

Things I still need to get or do:

Adjust valve clearances
Order Saddleman’s seat cover
Order front fork springs and seals
Install all of the above ^
Clean tank and R&R petcock
Replace right side foot peg

This will not be a frame off restoration as of now. The goal is to get her running and rideable. Once that’s done I’ll see where this takes me. Phase 2 will be more cosmetic like repainting the tank, rear end piece and the side covers. Polishing the engine covers. Also expecting to be able to verify things that can only be checked with the engine running like the stator/RR output voltage, clutch and transmission. Usually these projects take a life of their own.:eek:

I’ll post some pics of the progress in a few.
 
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Some goodies came in today:

I found a set of OEM caliper rebuild kits:
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Kits cost just under $16 each as NOS.

Airbox will be much happier as well:
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Still need to replace the missing weather stripping though.

Here's where I am today overall:
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Needed to bypass the oil cooler until I pick up the stock housing:
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Master cylinder bake parts are coming together:
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Your K&N filter came with two packs of oil... mine came with one. I applied the whole thing to the filter but didn't read the instructions closely enough until afterward... I was only supposed to put 1/2 of the pillow on the filter. So just a friendly reminder to double-check the instructions. :)
 
My instructions say to use one of the oil packs but it is strange that it came with two. Maybe mine are smaller then the one you received. Filter is now oiled and installed in the air box. Waiting on the boots to arrive from Z1.
 
Got the broken screw out of the intake.:D Tried the left hand drill bit but it still wouldn't budge and just drilled on through. I ended up drilling it through with a 5mm drill bit and then re-tapping it back to 6mm x 1 so all is back on schedule. The intake boots were still soft and unmolested so I decided to reuse them for now. I did order new air filter boots though. The ones that came with the bike were hard as rock. Still waiting for them to arrive from Z1.

Just a sanity check. When I installed the intake boots I realized that there was a Left and Right side. I found the markings on the boots:
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I assumed that the L and R were left side and right side of center with the person facing forward. I also assumed that the L and R faced up. Are these assumptions correct?

Here's how they look mounted with new SS cap screws coated with anti seize and new O-rings:
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Next step is to do a good cleaning with degreaser once I plug the intake holes with something.:rolleyes:

Brakes are coming along as well. Cleaned calipers with new pistons and seals all loaded up and ready:
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New pads were NOS Vesrahs:
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One my 1000G, when the boots are installed with the letters facing upwards the carbs/airbox are a royal PIA to install, with the letters facing downwards the carbs/airbox all go in like butter, just they way they were designed to.
 
I just went out and checked five of my 1000G's and pulled some new manifolds out of the bags, the letters go up!
Or, with the smallest/narrowest part up left and up right respectively with the letters up. Do whatever you choose. ;)
 
If you ask anyone you will be told letters up for sure. I really have no idea why mine need to be down to have the carbs and airbox fit better. Doesn't matter which way you put them in, if the carb and airbox don't want to go together easily you'll just have to pull things off and turn the boots around, at least you'll know what the problem is.
 
Thanks for the heads up tkent02. I already have the parts for that sitting around so it's going to get done. I'm also going to replace the seals in the tach drive. Seems to be leaking there as well.
 
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Valves were adjusted today. Several of the valves were less then .03mm but buckets still were able to rotate. Luckily I had enough shims left over from adjusting my 850 that I didn't need to order any new shims. In the end, the widest gap was .08mm and the tightest was .05mm. All shims were between 2.60mm and 2.70mm. Surprised that they were in that good shape based the fact that all the valve cover screws were close to being seized and the valve cover gasket was toast and leaking badly. I don't thing the valves were adjusted in years. Good news was that nothing looked out of the ordinary. All buckets rotated smoothly and no visible cam wear. Just waiting on the breather cover gasket and some cleaning of the old valve cover gasket to get it buttoned up.
 
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What are your plans with the oil cooler? if you're not putting it back on you'll need another oil sensor or I guess you could plug the extra hole in the one you have for the cooler. Not sure why anyone would ever put an oil cooler on a stock G.
 
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