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Nitrous street 1166

  • Thread starter Thread starter Nicholaschase29
  • Start date Start date
N

Nicholaschase29

Guest
Hi everyone,

The past few months I've been collecting parts for my build. I wasn't planning to do anything at all but I was able to trade some parts for head work and that got the ball rolling. Since I needed to remove the head I then compromised the base gasket and because I had to take the engine down for new gaskets I knew it'd be a good time to do additional work to the bike.

Up to about 6 months ago my bike has had some basic mods including a 4-1 V&H pipe, VM33 smoothbores, accel coils, dyna 2000 ignition, marzocchi shocks, fork brace, braided steel lines, and 1150 cams. This fall I was able to score a cheap wet nitrous setup for a 4 cylinder engine. I bought a 2.5lb bottle and kinda got wrapped up in it. Now I own a nitrous transfer pump and two 50lb nitrous cylinders which I also scored on and actually made money on after I sold off the 5 other tanks that were included. I kept an extra tank and the pump and also some accessories.

Anyway, I've been running a 48hp shot this fall and had some clutch slipping problems so I put in some stiffer springs. I was ready to put the bike away when I was able to make the trade with Terry for the head work. So I pulled my head - got the itch - and started gathering parts.

What my plan to do was to build a bang for your buck bike. Mostly using good used parts without being too invasive. Ideally I wanted to go with a 1229 kit because the cases would not have to be modified to fit that combo. I later found that it was very hard to source a used kit with 18mm pins for the 1100 crank. After some searching I wound up sourcing a 10.25:1 Wiseco -- 1166 kit from a member on this site. I would've like to go a little bigger but the price was right and i was only giving up a few cc's.

For cams I decided to go with G4's. They seem to be the best cam that fit without messing with guides, however it is recommended to grind the oil bumps down on the rocker arms. The lift on G4's is 0.355". I picked up a few sets but they seem to be in pretty sad shape... as seen here and here
I have talked to several members on the site and some have used these cams without HD valve springs. Rather than getting HD valve springs or using stock springs I have decided to shim my valve springs 0.060" to increase the pressure a little. Cost - $7.

As far as headwork goes Terry built me a very fine head which I am excited to use. He has also been very helpful answering my many questions in great detail. The intake flows ~100CFM and the exhaust flows ~80CFM at 0.4" of lift and at 10" vacuum.
You can see very nice graphs, pictures and comparisons between different heads Terry has done along with the flow of a stock head:
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1330541#post1330541
While I have the head down I am also going to replace the valve guide seals.


Up to this point I have the 1166 bock and pistons, some G4 cams along with my ported head. I am ordering the gaskets, valve guide seals, and various other parts this week.

My crank is welded and my clutch basket is built a little; it's been welded but no HD springs or backing plate. I have the helical crank gear which is going to be my limiting factor. According to Ray I should be putting out around 140hp at the rear wheel. I am planning to reduce the nitrous from a 48 shot to a 36hp shot. I rigged up a relay system to retard the ignition timing when the nitrous is activated. because my bike doesn't have blinkers i wired the arming switch into the left turn signal. That way i have the controls at my finger tips and I have a light on my dash to tell me that the system has been/ is armed. When armed my horn button then switches to become the firing mechanism for the nitrous (with the WOT switch inline of course).

I'd like to thank Terry, Posplayr, Rapidray, Racing Jake, Rosco15 among others for their help with answering questions and helping me.

Here are some pictures of everything so far:

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Just so you know, if you ever get new intake manifolds, the CORRECT way to install NOS nozzles is from the BOTTOM so they are pointing straight up. This points the spray to the correct place in the ports. Just so you know. Ray.
 
also........
you mentioned a welded stock basket...
i hope you going to install a complete HD basket as the welded stock ones are no stronger than factory stock..
don't second guess in this area and get a new HD basket.
 
Thanks for the tip Ray. This was the easiest place for me to put them because of the existing line length and because there is more meat on the top of the manifold. If I were to do it right I would have tapped the bottom of the head as you suggested in one of our previous conversations. I never thought I'd be taking the head off so I put them in the boots. Thanks for the input.
 
not good.
the extra thick backing plate/larger rivets keeps everything intact.
like i said,
that basket is not any stronger than an OEM suzuki basket.
get a used basket and have a HD backing plate kit installed.
you might be able to sell your stock/modded basket to help offset the money a little bit.
this is wear all your horse power transfers through.
think about it.
 
I will keep my eyes open for a different basket. Thanks for the suggestion.

The other thing I was thinking about having done while the bike is apart is to either shave the head or the cylinders down to bump compression. Will I see worthwhile gains by doing this? Will I cause clearance problems with the piston/valves? too much compression bad for spraying nitrous?

I'm planning on putting the cams at 105/107.

Thanks,
Nick
 
if your pistons are near zero deck height or maybe 3-4 down i wouldn't worry about tightening anything up.
be aware that a fiber type head gasket may not like the NOS and you may need to go with a copper head gasket....just depending on how much HP your gonna spray.
in my opinion i would install HD cyl. studs and main studs.
if this was a non turbo non NOS application then i wouldn't worry a lot about the factory bolts/studs stretching with flat tops.
 
I was going to call Cometic tomorrow regarding their aluminum core rubber coated gasket that I've been turned onto. Have you had any experience with these?

Granted I get a HD basket, what do you think would be a safe shot and a "pushing it" with this setup (helical gears). and also in terms of HP - what do you think would be safe and pushing it?
 
i'm not a NOS guy.
i have made 200+ HP with 1166 turbo/helical gear engine.
i would check the basket weekly.
then...
i checked it and 2 of the 3 rivets had came loose.
went to straight cuts after that and installed engine in a car tire drag bike.
like i mentioned ...the studs are nice because they keep the head gasket from pushing out/holds higher torque (40lbs).
and the main studs keep the crank from bouncing around.
money well spent for sure.
the head gasket you mentioned...i'm not familiar with that so i can't comment.
 
How are you retarding the ignition when you spray it? Ray.

Basically I'm using a SPST relay with the coil wired in line with the solenoid relay. Then connecting the switched wires to ground and the orange retard wire that goes to the dyna 2000.
 
Here's the flow sheet on the nice head Terry did up for me:

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Here's the bike as it sits now:


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My valve spring shims just came from APE today.


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I was going to call Cometic tomorrow regarding their aluminum core rubber coated gasket that I've been turned onto. Have you had any experience with these?

I've used Cometic head gaskets in a few car engines I've built. One with a turbo, two pushing 150 and 200 hp shots of nitrous. Never had one problem with the gaskets failing. Cometic makes a darn good product.
 
I would think you would need a lockup clutch for that thing, I went from 3 barnett and 3 EBC spring to 6 Barnett springs in mine to get it to stop slipping.
+1 on the HD clutch backing plate, WAAAY beefier, if that thing comes apart it will make a helluva mess of your engine. I think its about $200 for the APE HD do-it-yourself kit.
 
I just got my valves back-cut and I'm getting ready to lap them in and re-assemble the head.

My question is do I just move the valve back and fourth ~1/8 turn or do I spin it in circles with my drill or with a piece of fuel line on the end of the valve?

I've heard it done both ways......

Pictures to come!!:D:D:D
 
Here are pictures I got of the valves. Take a look at them and let me know what you think about it. The cuts on some of the valves are not concentric. I guess it's not detrimental as it's just to increase air flow, however I would have thought they would be concentric. Are the valves a precisely cut and machined symmetric piece? Is the eccentric cut on the valve from his machine or from the shape of the valve?

Also - Is this what they should look like after they've been backcut - is it deep enough? they're supposedly cut at a 37 degree angle...

I'm getting ready to lap them in - should I just get a fine paste? Is there a good brand/type i'm looking for?

Thanks

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Nick, it astounds me that you get this work done & then come to different sites & ask questions to everyone EXCEPT the guy that did the work for you! Call Terry & ask HIM! Do you have any idea how you are insulting Terry?! Terry has done exactly what he told you he would do & the STOCK valves look like that after they are backcut when you are too cheap to buy stainless valves. Ray.
 
ray,
are the valves bent?

i just now looked at the pictures.
so terry didn't have the valves?
that explains a lot then.
 
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