oil coolers

[terry]

for saaz thats what i have been trying to say. i dont know why it took about 4 goes must be oldtimers disease

That's alright Ozzie, just give me a ride on the "Hone Monster" and I'll forgive you, ha ha!

Saaz was nice enough to email me some pics of a home made adaptor, I've no doubt that it worked, but I reckon it would be one of the ugliest pieces of metalwork I've ever seen.

I've got a pic of the earls adaptor (about $150.00 US) which I won't be buying at that price, so I'll try to make one similar, it looks pretty neat.

There was a complete cooler on ebay last night with about 8 hours to go, but I noticed that the high bidder was Squaredancerlynne, a regular GS contributor, so I thought I better do the right thing and not outbid him. Pity though, it looked pretty good.

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Terry. Not bidding against SquareDancerLynn is a nice thing to do. Very respectable. I hope the good deed returns to you.

 

[saaz]

The principle is what matters! The Yoshi one I have is just a nicer cast and machined version of the homemade one. The original oil pressure switch is still used.

 

[Anonymous]

I've always been concerned about fitting coolers. We can get away without it here because most days are cool enough. I've got 2 questions:
Can the standard pump cope?

What happens to the oil in the cooler when you stop the engine? Do you need to add extra oil to compensate in order to keep the oil level high enough when the engine is running?

Sorry, thats 3!

To do the job properly surely you'd need to fit a thermostatic valve to bypass the cooler for cold days, and non-return valves to stop the oil running back into the sump?

 

[Anonymous]

yes the pump can cope
the small amount the cooler take does not seem to affect anything
check the oil same as always
no return valves ...why never seen one fitted yet
we ride in winter never had a problem with the oil getting to cold thermos just more complication and no gain
ozman

 

[terry]

Interesting points guys, the cooler that I have apparently has some sort of built in thermostat, but how well (if at all) it works is anyone's guess. My old BMW R100RS that I recently sold had a thermostatic bypass on the engine block, and apparently it wouldn't allow oil to the cooler until it reached a certain temperature.

The cooler and lines must have held up to half a litre (a pint) of oil, because when I checked the oil on occasion (well, not that often, it is a BMW, ha ha!) I would forget and end up overfilling it because of all the oil hiding up in the cooler and lines, because the thermostat worked as a non return valve too.

Very noble of you Ozzie to state that us brave Aussies ride in winter, I've been to England and can attest that their summers are about as warm as our winters anyway, ha ha! :twisted:

 

[brs127s]

Hi fellas,

Last summer, I put an oil cooler on my 83 GS850. I had been doing some riding and was stuck in a traffic jam on the road. My battery had went dead, and I could shut my bike off. After that, I began a quest to find a cooler setup to fit my 850. I was luck enough to by a Hayden adapter and cooler for a GS1000. The adapter replaced the oil pressure switch housing cover. I think this cover is the same for all GS's(don't quote me on that. I did a lot of research and preparation before putting the cooler on my bike. I added an oil pressure gauge(main oil gallery just below the back side of cylinder #4. I added the cooler and adapter with a minimal pressure drop. To make sure my pressure didn't drop, I took several pieces of 3/8" diameter aluminum stock and drilled a different sized channel through each. I then tried each to till I felt like I was retaining plenty of oil in the engine, but was allowing enough to flow through the cooler. I was going to fit a thermosat onto my outgoing line last fall, but I never got around to it. I do add a little extra oil, because some does stay in the cooler, but it is never over the full mark. As I said, I have done alot of research on this, so if you have any questions, let me know.

Brandon

 

[saaz]

I am doing some riding in sub zero temps recently to work, so short trips. Instead of a thermostat I will cover the oil cooler. I only have a little one one at the moment as my decent sized one cracked. For longer rides it still gets warm enough. This is with the full flow adaptor.

 

[Anonymous]

My 1100 has two ports on the front of the engine next to the oil filter that can be used for an oil cooler installation. What needs to be done to make these ports fully functional is to use an 1150 oil filter cover. This was covered a while ago in another oil cooler post.

The reason the 1150 cover must be used is that it blocks off flow to the filter through the drilled passages in the block. The flow to the filter is then through the oil cooler. Without the 1150 plate the oil cooler will not get much oil through it - so in turn not much cooling.

One word of caution - if you use the 1150 oil filter cover, then you MUST use and external oil cooler. Without the cooler, there will be a severe oil flow restriction to the filter.

 

[Anonymous]

re brs127s coment about restricting to keep oil preasure the way i read your post all you have done is kept preasure at the gauge and restricted flow to motor why....the cooler is between pump and oil galleries the restricters you made could not fit any where else it appears you might have reduced the amount of oil supplied to engine this is not good
ozman

 

[Chris D]

oil cooler adapter

oil cooler adapter

Hello,
I have built my own adapter and it works fine. Do a search for Chris Dailey and you should find the like to where it is posted. It has the demensions of the adapter or I have built and extra so if anyone wants one just let me know. Also with my adapter I have not had any troubles with the oil pressure light coming on like Brandons, I think because his adapter might be the partial flow and with mine I have made it long enough into the mate up the the oil pickup hole. So if you want some more pictures of mine or of other make's of adapters just let me know. Mine is roughly based on the earls model since they do make there's any more. Hope this helps, just let me know if you what my extra one.

Chris Dailey

 

[brs127s]

Ozman,

Sorry, I didn't give a very good explaination of the restrictors. The restricters are placed in the hose going out to my cooler. With the pressure switch housing adapter, it only allows an additional path for the oil to pass through. The oil comes out just over the crankcase pump hole and returns just over the crankcase return hole.

If I plugged the outgoing hose, then it would be as if I never added the cooler. As Chris said in his post the adapter I have is a partial flow. The adapter has a shoulder that is about 2/3 the length of the distance between the top of the adapter and the crankcase. This allows some oil to go to the cooler, and the rest to continue its normal path through the engine. My restricter prevents too much oil from going to the cooler, therefor keeping more oil in the engine. I have trouble with my oil pressure light, because it is the pressure going to the cooler. The pressure switch is elbowed off the side of my adapter, so the oil flow just passes by it's opening. When warm, the light only comes on at an idle. This means I have a 1/2 pound of pressure at idle going through my cooler. This is why I added a mechanical oil pressure gauge to my main oil gallery(I did this on the recommendation of another GSR member[Hap gets the credit here]). Also, this is where the service shops would check the oil pressure.

When I finally got everything set up to my satisfaction, my pressure dropped only one two to tenths of a pound. With the cooler setup, my pressure was still at the upper end of the range in the factory manual. My 850 definitely runs cooler. It takes a little longer to warm up in cooler weather. That just means I have to ride it longer...darn, I just hate that!

 

[terry]

I'm in the process of carving a chunk of billet alloy into an oil cooler adapter for my GS1000ST, loosely (well actually quite closely) based on the now unavailable Earls item. When it's finished (and if it works) I'll post a pic.

Because I run an oil pressure guage and due to the problems with tapping in an effective pressure switch and to save me some of the problems highlighted in the above posts I've decided to go without the oil pressure light, at least for the time being.

I thought about making another adapter for the oil pressure guage so that I can tap in the oil pressure switch as well, but I don't see much value in having two instruments working off the same adapter. :twisted:

 

[Chris D]

oil cooler

oil cooler

Terry,
My oil pressure switch is just like Brandons. I got it from NAPA it is .5 to 2.0 psi and if you looked at my adapter you can see where I mounted mine. It works fine since the oil comes up from the oil pickup right to the oil pressure switch and then thru the oil lines and cooler. I also think my oil cooler gives it some resistance in it. I made an oil temp block (drilled and taped for oil temp sender) so I can see what the oil temp was. I hooked the lines up from one side to the other and by passed the oil cooler and my pressure light came on at idle, so I hooked up the oil cooler and the light has yet to come on at idle. I hope the help you.

Chris Dailey

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

The earls ed30 adapter is NOT available I tride to get one from their web site. And I also got out bid on ebay at the last minute on the oil cooler. To get an adapter for the roller brg motors you will have to make one, so do a site search their are excellent directions for making one.

 

[terry]

The earls ed30 adapter is NOT available I tride to get one from their web site. And I also got out bid on ebay at the last minute on the oil cooler. To get an adapter for the roller brg motors you will have to make one, so do a site search their are excellent directions for making one.

No problemo mate, I've copied the ED30 as I think it looks the best out of all the adapters I've seen so far, I machined it out of billet aluminium but when I was almost finished and just tapping a BSP thread for the rear hose (return) fitting I managed to break my new 50 buck tap, so now I'm about half way thru adapter #2.

I'll have it finished by the weekend, so as soon as I work out how to post a pic I'll show you. As I said, it's a close copy of Earl's ED30 that is no longer available, machined from billet on my milling machine and bead blasted. (because I like the "frosted" finish) If you want one let me know, I'd really like to sell a couple of these to recover the costs of the two taps, ha ha! :twisted:

 

[Anonymous]

The NAPA/Echlin part number for the oil pressure switch is: OP6115