Oil filter cover bolt stripped...

[turkeyroll60]

I did my first oil change on my 82 gs450t today and was torquing the oil filter cover nuts down within the specified range (5 ft lbs to be exact, max is 5.6) and one of them went real loose and will not tighten anymore. The other two went to 5 ft lbs no problem and I was sure to tighten them slowly. I replaced the gasket and made sure it went on properly. It seemed ok so I went on a short ride. I just went out to the garage to look and it is leaking oil a little near the cover and somewhere out of the gear selector where it enters the case. The gear selector leak was there when I bought the bike but I threw it in here to see if anyone else has had the same issue. DARN IT!!!

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

No pictures, but it's a pretty simple procedure: Shifter Seal Replacement

As for the oil filter cover, is it the stud or the acorn nut that is stripped? I've purchased a small supply of each because this has happened to me a couple of times.

See: Oil Cover Studs and Nuts

If the stud holes on the front of the case are stripped then you'll have to re-tap (Time-cert or Heli-coil), glue the studs in with a Permatex Loc-tite sealant, or (worse case scenario) find a used lower half of the crankcase on eBay.

Have you seen this? Oil and Filter Change (PDF file)

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[Nessism]

Most likely the clutch pushrod seal. Very common problem with the 450. There are two different types of seal for that application so make sure you get the right one for your bike. You can check part numbers here... http://www.boulevardsuzuki.com/

 

[turkeyroll60]

Bass,
When you say m6 40mm fully threaded stud, to me that seems pretty long for just that little bit that sticks out of the oil cover for the acorn nut to screw onto. Maybe I'm just thinking to much into it. The one that is giving me problems is the one in the upper left side as you are looking at the front of the case.

 

[tkent02]

Few torque wrenches are accurate enough to use at 5 ft lbs, just snug it up with your calibrated fingers on a short wrench, or even better a nut driver. Those studs and nuts are just made of cheese anyway, fortunately they are very easy to replace.

 

[Chrkut]

I recently stripped one of these myself
The stud goes into the case, where it screws in. I got 3 new studs off of bikebandit for pretty cheap, but i haven't put them on yet. My temp solution, which turned into a "I don't want to take this off again so it will wait until it leaks or the next oil filter change" was to put a m6 bolt into it, that was long enough to go into the cover and keep it on nice and tight.

 

[1_v8_merc]

What usually happens is, the studs get Flat spots on them, which causes the Nut to keep Loosening. Usually it will happen Right at the torque threshold, so you're not able to tighten her down properly. The Nuts themselves can even Flatten out.

If you have a small flat-spot on the stud, just add More nuts to the Stud, to hold pressure on the filter cover. As long as most of the stud has good thread remaining, you should be able to get some pressure back on there.

These studs are disposable items, Suzuki even says they should be replaced Often.
It's the One crappy design feature on these bikes...which I don't like.

You could re-tap for a larger threading, and just use a bolt, instead of these crappy studs.
But I would be careful, the aluminum is easily Threadable and soft...

 

[turkeyroll60]

I got it fixed finally. I ordered one plus two extras from bikebandit.com. Im waiting on some valve shims to finish the valve adjustment and some float bowl gaskets for the carb rebuild. The cam chain timing is dead on as well.

 

[jdknicks]

OK, I had a stud strip on me on my oil change, and I can't get it out. I put two nuts on it, tightened the top one down and tried to loosed the bottom one after putting some heat on the surrounding block. Help!!

Should i try to use some loctite red on the two nuts, let it cure for 24 hours and try again? I'm at a loss...

 

[prosnomonkey]

the nuts are pulling away from each other? You should tighten the two nuts against each other then put your wrench on the one closest to the block and use it to loosen the stud turning it lefty loosey. The one further from the block keeps the one your wrench is on from turning off the stud

 

[tkent02]

It's the One crappy design feature on these bikes...which I don't like.

You could re-tap for a larger threading, and just use a bolt, instead of these crappy studs.

Using a bolt will just wear out the threads in the aluminum, instead of the studs. Much worse idea. Replace the studs with better quality studs, or use the original ones and plan on replacing them every decade or two. Put them in with anti-seize either way, so replacing them is easy. And don't bottom out the studs.

 

[jdknicks]

the nuts are pulling away from each other? You should tighten the two nuts against each other then put your wrench on the one closest to the block and use it to loosen the stud turning it lefty loosey. The one further from the block keeps the one your wrench is on from turning off the stud

I did this, unsuccessfully. The one furthest from the block apparently did not grip the stud enough, so they kept on coming off. I found another thread and got a couple new ideas, so I plan on trying the following list when I get home.

1. Retry two nuts (I'll probably hit it with some loctite red to hold nuts.),
2. Visegrips, although there's not a lot of room to maneuver,
3. IF the two above options fail, I'll resort to using Screw Extractor kit.

 

[jdknicks]

Finally got it!

Finally got it!

After much effort and frustration, I finally got the stud out.

I ended up using this Extractor kit found at Autozone. It is a rental ($30.00 refundable deposit), and they just began stocking them at my local Autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...emover-set/_/N-264d?itemIdentifier=391371_0_0_

They barely cleared the space between the case and the stud, but it did the trick. For whatever it's worth, I tried using two nuts and loctite - NOTHING.

Anyway, I'm back up and running and I'm also enjoying this cool weather we've been having in TX!

 

[chuck hahn]

Here is a little time saver for BOTH the fork cap bolts AND the filter studs.

Take said bad stud with you to the auto parts store and get metric exhaust studs. They usually have an end on them for some sort of torques wrench..just grind that wrench nipple fitting off and insert that end into the fork or engine case.

Broke a fork bolt on Frank Zs Cooley and wasn't going ape on it either. He kinda sighed and I told him lets go to the auto parts..I had done this repair many times myself. Took 15 minutes to go and get back and was done in a short time after that. Red Loctite them in too.

 

[chuck hahn]

Craftsman carries a really nice set of stud extractors too. Mine is in a red plastic case. Think I paid like 15 bucks way back when.

 

[jdknicks]

Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on messing with this anytime soon but I'll keep it in mind for next time. Truly ingenious.

 

[jdknicks]

The only stud extractors that I saw from craftsman were the round disk type with offset wheel. The one I saw was too large for he 6mm stud

 

[chuck hahn]

Be mindful that the acorns strip rather easily also. Many bikes ive seen have gotten rid of them and just have a REAL 10MM nut and flat washers on them. Good thing about a regular but is this..IF it should ever get stuck and not loosen, a nut splitter takes them off in seconds..simply replace with another new nut!!!

 

[bccap]

After much effort and frustration, I finally got the stud out.

I ended up using this Extractor kit found at Autozone. It is a rental ($30.00 refundable deposit), and they just began stocking them at my local Autozone.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...emover-set/_/N-264d?itemIdentifier=391371_0_0_

They barely cleared the space between the case and the stud, but it did the trick. For whatever it's worth, I tried using two nuts and loctite - NOTHING.

Anyway, I'm back up and running and I'm also enjoying this cool weather we've been having in TX!

Hey JD. I've got a broken exhaust bolt with about a 1/4 inch out, Do you think these might do the trick ? { I have no access to a welder }

 

[chuck hahn]

!/4 should be enough for them to grip onto.