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Oil info from the "poll" section.

  • Thread starter Thread starter The Kelzer
  • Start date Start date
83'GK said:
I will comment one last time before I close this thread from my postings: Mr Kelser, you have a whole lot' to learn about human relations, and I really hope you step aside from your omnipotence and look in the mirror at what myself and these posters here are telling you. You cut me down, you cut my state down, tell me I am ignorant, tell all the others posting here that they are ignorant, and yet you preach "if someones gives you advice from personal experience, it's at least worth a try"...perhaps the 'personal experiences of all posters on this thread except for one have to carry some kind of weight. For you to come on this forum and tell everyone here that since you sat in acouple of meetings that you are the sole authority on motor oils, you must either have some really big balls, or your as stupid as a box of rocks..I tend to think the latter applies in this case, and would be willing to bet $$ that several other posters on this thread would agree with me. You have not shown one thing that I have posted as being incorrect by any kind of proof whatsoever except you saying 'I saw it with my own eyes", well, hell! I guess since I live in Arkansas, and I Saw a UFO, that they must be undeniably real. This tells me since you can't put up, then do us all a favour and shut up. oh, and BTW, while your at it, Rotella 15w-40 is on sale at Wal-mart, perhaps since 'personal experience' tells me it works, that you should pick up a gallon and try it out. After all, it's all about personal experience,right?

What's cool is if you go on the rotella site they specifically state in their FAQ that their oil is good for motorcycle engines. Plus it's 7 bucks a gallon at walmart!

I just switched to it on the last week.
http://www.rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=169
 
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Hey KEITH KRAUSE, Only 100,000 miles on a bike engine with Castrol GTX 20/50? How many miles are you counting on with the change to Motul 3000 10/40? I've always used Castrol 20/50, with never an oiling problem. But if I can only expect 100,000 miles with this junky stuff, I guess I should be looking for something better also.
 
I use the cheapest brand name 10W-40. Why? If I need a litre (or quart) of oil when travelling, I want to be able to get the same stuff! If I need a litre of oil in Moose's Butt, Saskatchewan, I want to be able to get the same stuff I'm running. If I'm running Castrol GTX, chances are the local grocery store will carry it!

Besides, all the name brand 10W-40 oils are turbo approved. Turbo=heat. Air cooled motor=heat. Oh, by the way, my old bikes don't spin at 17,500 rpm. Perhaps if I had a new bike, I would run something a little more exotic, but today's cheapest car oil is leaps and bounds better than what my bike was designed to run with.

Oh, and please lay off the crude name calling. In case you haven't noticed, it's not something we do here. :?
 
rphillips said:
Hey KEITH KRAUSE, Only 100,000 miles on a bike engine with Castrol GTX 20/50? How many miles are you counting on with the change to Motul 3000 10/40? I've always used Castrol 20/50, with never an oiling problem. But if I can only expect 100,000 miles with this junky stuff, I guess I should be looking for something better also.
Actually, I was at 106,000 miles when I decided to do the ground up restoration.
Many people would have said I was nuts because the only known problems the motor had was a VERY small amount of smoke while warming up and some general engine noises and a rattling clutch basket. Nothing major. I could have gone many more miles I'm sure. And a lot of those miles were in the city. The rest of the bike was in pretty good shape too. Just general weathering/wear and tear. No lay downs or anything.
I tore things apart because I had some time that winter/spring and also made some good OT money that year and it was just a good time. No regrets, that's for sure.
I don't know how many miles I'll get with the rebuilt motor. My riding habits are about the same. But I do have a bit more power with the 1085 pistons, pipe and K&N's. I hope to get another 100,000 miles+.:)
 
Can someone tell me where the oil goes in the bike? And what happens to it once it's in there? Can I just put it in the gas tank with the gas? Someone told me to use "Wally World" oil, is that made by Mobil or Shell? Finally, I've put 12,000 on my bike since I've got it. Is it time to add more oil?
 
The oil goes in the rider, don't let the bike run too long without sitting on it because the bearings can start to slide instead of roll.
 
Jethro said:
Can someone tell me where the oil goes in the bike? And what happens to it once it's in there? Can I just put it in the gas tank with the gas? Someone told me to use "Wally World" oil, is that made by Mobil or Shell? Finally, I've put 12,000 on my bike since I've got it. Is it time to add more oil?

Up here in igloo land we get our bike oil from the seals they hunt this time of year. I recommend you guys down in the states start up a seal hunt so you have lots of oil to lube your bike with. Plus you get the added bonus of having Paul Mcartney visit as well!
 
JHawkins said:
Up here in igloo land we get our bike oil from the seals they hunt this time of year. I recommend you guys down in the states start up a seal hunt so you have lots of oil to lube your bike with. Plus you get the added bonus of having Paul Mcartney visit as well!

Reminds me of a joke;

A seal walks into a bar and the bartender says, "What can I get you?"
The seal says, "Anything but a Canadian Club on ice."

:lol:
 
mcycle-nut said:
Reminds me of a joke;

A seal walks into a bar and the bartender says, "What can I get you?"
The seal says, "Anything but a Canadian Club on ice."

:lol:

I love it!
 
The Kelzer said:
Your intollerable ignorance aside,
In fact I can't think of any I4 motor that has a non-plain bearing supported crankshaft.
As someone who used to use Castrol GTX in my GPz 550
Kelzer

Well, if memory serves me right, just about every I4 Japanese engine from the 70's has a roller bearing crank. Not the GPZ, tho
 
Mobil1 15w50 full synth in my beloved 82 GS1100EZ. 72,000 miles and still rolling...turbine smooth...
 
To me, the most bizarre thing about the oil debate is that it's all theoretical. Is there any data anywhere that actually demonstrates an engine with $6 syn oil will last longer than an engine with $2 fossil oil? If not, you have to ask yourself why not.

All you would need to do is get some identical engines and run them under identical conditions, speeds, etc. with different oils and see which ones wear out first. Seems like the oil companies should have enough $ to do this.

Just another bizarre idea.
 
All you would need to do is get some identical engines and run them under identical conditions, speeds, etc. with different oils and see which ones wear out first. Seems like the oil companies should have enough $ to do this.

This is what the tests in this pdf file are duplicating: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
 
topher1556 said:
This is what the tests in this pdf file are duplicating: https://www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf

Difficult to conclude anything about synthetic vs. fossil since many syns did worse in wear than the 2 fossil types. It does look like the high quality syns did better in protecting ball bearings from scarring under pressure. Does that translate into making an engine last longer - I don't know.

Reading this, you would have to be a fool to use anything but AMSOIL.
 
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