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Opinions on this chain tool

  • Thread starter Thread starter SVSooke
  • Start date Start date
I bought one similar (maybe the same) as sold by Cycle Gear and the pin bent the first time I used it.

Edit: make that the C-beam bent, not the pin.
 
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I bought one similar (maybe the same) as sold by Cycle Gear and the pin bent the first time I used it.
On what size chain?One of the eBay ads said grinding the pins on larger(530-630 IIRC)is a good idea,me thinks they may be right.
 
Mine is a Pit Posse but it looks the same.
I have used it on a 530 and 630 chain and it worked but i did grind the pins down with a Dremel.
 
Mine is a "Stockton" brand and yes I ground down the pins. The metal is soft. If you baby the thing it will get the job done but not sure for how long.
 
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The good thing about the Cycle Gear tool is they sell the replacement pieces. I've pigtailed the smallest one on a cam chain and bent the largest on a really stubborn 530. I've done around 30 chains with the same tool and will be doing a Busa chain tomorrow. I bent the second, because I wasn't centered on the pin. It's hard to see it if it grinds smooth with the link. If you make sure you're on the mark by turning it a little then backing it off to make sure you're pushing the pin and not the link. They work ok and last once you get the hang of it. I would get the extras parts now, that way when you bend a part your already ahead of the game. BTW, keep some 9/16 wrenches handy. It's easier than using the bar they give to turn the tool. I think the CG tool has more parts, unless they're not showing everything in the ad.

PS, if you're tossing the old chain, just cut through a link with a cutoff disc and be done with it, nothing to bend then.
 
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Mine is a Pit Posse but it looks the same.
I have used it on a 530 and 630 chain and it worked but i did grind the pins down with a Dremel.


Mine is a Pit Posse and yes I ground down the pins. The metal is soft. If you baby the thing it will get the job done but not sure for how long.
Hmmmm...two slightly differing opinions on the same tool:-k
The good thing about the Cycle Gear tool is they sell the replacement pieces. I've pigtailed the smallest one on a cam chain and bent the largest on a really stubborn 530. I've done around 30 chains with the same tool and will be doing a Busa chain tomorrow. I bent the second, because I wasn't centered on the pin. It's hard to see it if it grinds smooth with the link. If you make sure you're on the mark by turning it a little then backing it off to make sure you're pushing the pin and not the link. They work ok and last once you get the hang of it. I would get the extras parts now, that way when you bend a part your already ahead of the game. BTW, keep some 9/16 wrenches handy. It's easier than using the bar they give to turn the tool. I think the CG tool has more parts, unless they're not showing everything in the ad.

PS, if you're tossing the old chain, just cut through a link with a cutoff disc and be done with it, nothing to bend then.
At this point I have nothing needing a chain removed but yeah I'm not to worried about cutting off a dead chain.That Cycle Gear looks like the one I'm thinking about. Thirty chains is a far cry from Nessism's experience.Other reviews have me wondering if it's hit and miss QC in the heat treat at some factory in China.I'd already done that bend trick to find where the pin is,it works great.

I bought the AlphaMoto tool, same thing, for $25 on ebay. If you don't force it you will be OK. I did my first chain with it, the hardest part was getting the plate over the pins far enough to expand the rivets.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alpha-Motor...ash=item1a14ef98db:g:8bkAAOSwa-dWqERH&vxp=mtr
Think I looked at that on the Bay to,by the time you get it in CAD it's $32 here.Not a big enough saving to not get it here.
Thanks for the input so far,still wondering if I should do it or hold off.:-k
 
Will it work on a cam chain? :-k

That is the only chain that you NEED on a GS. :encouragement:

And it almost never needs to be replaced, so the tool is virtually unnecessary. :-\\\

.
 
Will it work on a cam chain? :-k

That is the only chain that you NEED on a GS. :encouragement:

And it almost never needs to be replaced, so the tool is virtually unnecessary. :-\\\

.
Well the odd thing is I have NEVER had a bike without a drive chain.Not any real problems with buying a shaft drive it just never happened:-sGetting a new drive chain for the GPz at some point so I was wondering if this would work.
 
I have one just like it and as long as you don't get in a hurry and lubricate it(anti seize) it will do the job for a long time. Just tighten down and back off repeatedly until your rivet is set. Be sure you're using the right pin or anvil for the chain and cut off old chains, don't break them.

If you're trying to salvage a chain you are even cheaper than me. If that's the case just drop the swinger and don't f*** with the chain.
 
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Will it work on a cam chain? :-k

That is the only chain that you NEED on a GS. :encouragement:

And it almost never needs to be replaced, so the tool is virtually unnecessary. :-\\\

.

Steve, what kind of oil should I use?
 
I have one just like it and as long as you don't get in a hurry and lubricate it(anti seize) it will do the job for a long time. Just tighten down and back off repeatedly until your rivet is set. Be sure you're using the right pin or anvil for the chain and cut off old chains, don't break them.

If you're trying to salvage a chain you are even cheaper than me. If that's the case just drop the swinger and don't f*** with the chain.
No salvaging old chains here.Mostly without this tool getting a rivet master on is a major PITA.It would do a better job"cutting" a new chain to size to from the vid's I looked at.
 

Well it seems I got the last one at the new Victoria store.From the looks of the packaging it was sitting on the shelf a looooooooong time.Got wet to as the was shelving rust on the cellophane.A bit of rust the push bolt to.Will be taking care of that of course.
 
That tool is the same one as the "Stockton" brand. I dug mine out and realized that the pin didn't bend, the C beam did! The freaking thing flared out when I was pressing a pin but wasn't properly on center of the pin. I'm going to take a ride over to Cycle Gear and see if they will give me a new one. if not, I'll take out the sledge and try to bend it back into shape. It looks thick and strong, but the steel is soft and cheeselike.
 
That sounds to me like the C frame wasn't heat treated.A :black_eyed: on it for sure but i'd guess and hope it's a one off:disturbed:
 
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