• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Planning to wire in GSXR750 handlebar controls to a GS1100E

  • Thread starter Thread starter CivilRock
  • Start date Start date
C

CivilRock

Guest
GSXR controls are 2003
GS1100E bike is 1982

I'm looking at the GS schematic, particularly the turn signal wires and control boxes and it's very complex. the GSXR one is simple. But it's brought me some questions:
1. Is my GS supposed to auto cancel? (it doesn't)
2. Will I lose my turn signal running lights with this conversion?

Everything else has been super simple. Start switch, horn, brake light... easy.

Before I jump into the turn signal area, I thought I'd just ask some questions. hopefully someone has done this before and can lend some advice.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
The auto cancel system starts triggering with a pulse contact that occurs when you push the hand control turn signal switch. The continuity is not continuous though the switch. Non auto cancel hand controls are simpler; you push the switch for the turn and the continuity is there and the flashers turn on until you turn them off. Sorry, I know just enough to be dangerous about what it would take to swap out the old controls for new, just know you will loose the auto cancel unless you find a switch that functions the same way as the old.
 
Ok. That helps a ton. Those links are spot on, and very entertaining/educational. Posplayr, your DIY "Instructables" link to your homemade LED flasher is so nerdy. I mean that in a positive way. I was grinning ear to ear as I was reading it.

I think I'm going to ditch the whole auto-cancel system and simplify things. 1. My bike is not even close to stock, so I'm not really concerned about keeping any originality. 2. It hasn't worked for the last 10 years I've owned the bike, so I'm not losing something I was accustomed to. 3. My auto-cancel is already hardwired into my left thumb. It happens automatically whether I want it to or not. :)

So if I'm re-inventing this system and deleting the whole auto-cancel box, do I need a 2nd normally closed relay to turn off the running lights? (the 2nd filament in the front turn signals) when the turn signals flash? Or is there a more sophisticated way to wire this up? I do like the signals in the front to act as running lights. But if it proves to be too much hassle, I can ditch that tiny little feature as well.

Thanks to all you geniuses out there!

-Kevin
 
I would think that running light operation would have no affect on the t-signal circuit.

As long as they're two filament bulbs and sockets, I would think that the "signal" leads go to turnsignal switch, "running light" ties into head lamp (or dedicated park circuit) and ground does its thing.


I don't see a need to shut the park lamp off to allow for the flash to be visible. This function does increase the contrast of the flash, but is it enough to worry about?




Or i could be way off base and need to stfu.:p
 
I think you're totally right. For some reason I was thinking that the whole signal blinks. But I think you're right, it does just get brighter.
That makes it really easy.

Cheers!
 
Got everything wired in under the headlight, but no blinky.

This was happening before, so I knew I might have another problem. Simple question:

If I put 12v + to one terminal of the flasher, and ground another, it should "click, click, click" right?

It just clicks once and then nothing.

I'm headed to buy a new flasher, but just wanted to think out loud to ya all.

Kevin.
 
If I'm abandoning the auto cancel system, is there any reason to keep this 2x3x1 box that is the signal control unit? It's hard wired into the loom, but there's about 12 wires in there I'm not using anymore anyway. I was considering opening it all up (again) and doing some cleanup. Does the box do anything else besides the auto cancel?
 
If I'm abandoning the auto cancel system, is there any reason to keep this 2x3x1 box that is the signal control unit? It's hard wired into the loom, but there's about 12 wires in there I'm not using anymore anyway. I was considering opening it all up (again) and doing some cleanup. Does the box do anything else besides the auto cancel?

The TSCU only does auto cancel, if you have a three prong flasher it should work with the TSCU disconnected.
 
OK, the TSCU is not hard wired into the loom, but my wiring diagram shows 7 wires going into it but this thing has 17 wires going into it.

20140224_140658.jpg


Replaced the flasher, but still no blinky.

I feel like I'm looking at the wrong wiring diagram, and the GS1100EZ one is different. Maybe?

I think this is a major clue: When I wired in the GSXR Left control, there's an orange wire with a red trace on it that used to go to the GS Left control and now is sitting there unused. It's not addressed in the Katman diagram, but it seems to me this would provide power to this little sub system. No?

There's just so many friggen wires in this loom and I feel like I need to cut the thing open just so I can lay it out on the floor and figure out where everything goes. (I know that probably won't help, and I'll be just as lost.)

Is it me, or is this GS1100 wiring complex? I'm usually pretty good at this stuff.

-Kevin
 
OK, the TSCU is not hard wired into the loom, but my wiring diagram shows 7 wires going into it but this thing has 17 wires going into it.

Replaced the flasher, but still no blinky.

I feel like I'm looking at the wrong wiring diagram, and the GS1100EZ one is different. Maybe?

I think this is a major clue: When I wired in the GSXR Left control, there's an orange wire with a red trace on it that used to go to the GS Left control and now is sitting there unused. It's not addressed in the Katman diagram, but it seems to me this would provide power to this little sub system. No?

There's just so many friggen wires in this loom and I feel like I need to cut the thing open just so I can lay it out on the floor and figure out where everything goes. (I know that probably won't help, and I'll be just as lost.)

Is it me, or is this GS1100 wiring complex? I'm usually pretty good at this stuff.

-Kevin

That is the brain box to detect faults and lights your no less than 6 fault lights in the gauges; you got rid of that so I guess you could hack that out as well.

ORANGE/RED (O/R) is universally the HEADLAMP +12V power. Switched power from the fusebox to power headlamp through the left hand switch.

You signals should run off of ORANGE/GREEN (O/G).

You got the SSPB correct? I would wait to install it after you make all these changes.

Yes I would guess the 82/83 GS1100E harnesses are pretty complex given the additional TSCU and Warning lights wiring, however, the Turn signals are still rather simple.

  1. ORANGE/GREEN (O/G) supplies power to FLASHER (fuse box output)
  2. Output of the Flasher is LIGHT BLUE(Lbl) and goes to the left hand control switch and comes out as either:
    • left hand BLACK (B) or
    • right hand LIGHT GREEN (Lg)

    These two wires drive the signals and dash lights. If you have only one you will need to connect them through diodes to flash a single dash light.
.
You probably need to recheck your wiring at the left hand switch.

Also if you look at the original schematic for the left hand control O/R goes to the left hand switch as a power signal for signalling the TSCU.


The TSCU and Fault Brain Box can be removed and these signals should still work.
The only thing the TSCU does is stop the flash by applying +12V to the BLACK/BLUE (B/Bl) on the 3 prong OEM Flasher. Remove the TSCU to get the signals working first.


Are you really trying to turn that thing into a stripped down bobber or just get the signal to work?
 
Last edited:
Are you really trying to turn that thing into a stripped down bobber or just get the signal to work?

Thanks for the help. Those explanations simplify things for me.

To answer your question, I do just want them to work, but I also want a full understanding of this wiring. Right now my wiring is smarter than me, and I need to master it. That might mean stripping down the harness until I can digest it.

I believe I had a simple problem with the flasher, but I' haven't tested it yet. I think the old flasher was broken, and electronic flasher I bought was hooked up backwards. I only figured that out after I completely dove in and started tracing paths of every system. I had a large mole hill of e-tape when I was done, and enough extra wire to build a Robin's nest.

The brain box seems to have some other functions other than the idiot lights. As some of the headlight wires go directly in it. I'm going to leave that part mostly intact, but I'm removing all the wires that I know I'm not using. All the wires going to the TSCU are gone. Since I have the Dyna 2000, the ignition system wires are removed, and most of the idiot lights for the stock dash are yanked. No side stand switch. There's a couple more, but anything not used is gone.

While I have this all apart and it's fresh in my head I started installing the SSPB. I should have my new Series R/R this week as well, and I'm going to do it all at once. I know that was against your advice, but I feel a lot more confident now that I have this whole thing apart and a good understanding of what's what.

I am going to boldly predict that everything will work when I button it all up.

-Kevin

20140225_010559.jpg
 
Thanks for the help. Those explanations simplify things for me.

To answer your question, I do just want them to work, but I also want a full understanding of this wiring. Right now my wiring is smarter than me, and I need to master it. That might mean stripping down the harness until I can digest it.

I believe I had a simple problem with the flasher, but I' haven't tested it yet. I think the old flasher was broken, and electronic flasher I bought was hooked up backwards. I only figured that out after I completely dove in and started tracing paths of every system. I had a large mole hill of e-tape when I was done, and enough extra wire to build a Robin's nest.

The brain box seems to have some other functions other than the idiot lights. As some of the headlight wires go directly in it. I'm going to leave that part mostly intact, but I'm removing all the wires that I know I'm not using. All the wires going to the TSCU are gone. Since I have the Dyna 2000, the ignition system wires are removed, and most of the idiot lights for the stock dash are yanked. No side stand switch. There's a couple more, but anything not used is gone.

While I have this all apart and it's fresh in my head I started installing the SSPB. I should have my new Series R/R this week as well, and I'm going to do it all at once. I know that was against your advice, but I feel a lot more confident now that I have this whole thing apart and a good understanding of what's what.

I am going to boldly predict that everything will work when I button it all up.

-Kevin

20140225_010559.jpg

The brain box (actually it is called check panel) senses the current draw through the headlamp, tail lights and brake lights (again see figure on page 11-21 of the manual) among other things. If you have no dash lights then not there is not much reason for most of the check panel box. Check the manual to see which ones you would want to retain.

As far as integration of the SSPB separately, It was just a gentle suggestion to keep things simple. The only complicated part is the modifications to the Kill switch wiring and that is rather simple. See this thread for more suggestions.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=218780


That is obviously not your approach so the SSPB should make thinks easier considering you are jumping in with both feet. If you do short something it will tell you and you dont have to change out fuses looking for the short.

I would offer one last suggestion which is to make sure everything works correctly before you re-wrap the whole harness (err been there done that :o).

Good luck, I'm sure it will work out.
 
I would offer one last suggestion which is to make sure everything works correctly before you re-wrap the whole harness (err been there done that :o).

Oh, you can be sure I will be testing everything. I'm already pre-testing each step just to make sure I'm going the right direction.

So I can delete the check panel black box completely? I've already removed 1/2 the wires from it. The only hesitation I have is that on the microfiche that black box is described as a "Head Lamp Relay". Although that's not a full description of what it does, it makes me think there is a headlight relay in there. Does the SSPB have enough output to directly power the headlight? Or am I going to use the O/R feed out of the SSPB to signal a relay for the headlight?

10 amps x 12v = 120 watts right? What's the headlight? 50-60 watts?

So the < 5 amps for the headlight is fine. I think I just answered my own question.

-Kevin
 
Oh, you can be sure I will be testing everything. I'm already pre-testing each step just to make sure I'm going the right direction.

So I can delete the check panel black box completely? I've already removed 1/2 the wires from it. The only hesitation I have is that on the microfiche that black box is described as a "Head Lamp Relay". Although that's not a full description of what it does, it makes me think there is a headlight relay in there. Does the SSPB have enough output to directly power the headlight? Or am I going to use the O/R feed out of the SSPB to signal a relay for the headlight?

10 amps x 12v = 120 watts right? What's the headlight? 50-60 watts?

So the < 5 amps for the headlight is fine. I think I just answered my own question.

-Kevin

Yes and Yes you did.

Not sure about the headlamp relay in the check box. If you look at the schematic

O to Fusebox
O/R from Fusebox to RH control connector
Y/W loops out from connector to HL Switch
R/Y and R/W go to the Check BOX
Y and W exit the Check Box to power the HL H/L respectively.

There would need to be an O/R input to the Check box if it had a headlamp relay in it. There is none.

There is an O/G input to the check box and so there could be a brake light relay. The R/Bl is the common signal from either the F or R brake switch. A current amp would be needed to see if those brake switches are carrying the whole light current or just enough to switch a relay.
 
I could really use a good wiring diagram schematic of this bike.

For some reason all the ones I have don't show this black box check panel box thingy.

Do you have one you could send me? Either way, I'm cuttin' more stuff out. :evil: And for a guy that just knows enough to be dangerous, those are dangerous words. I know it, but I'm still going to do it.

-Kevin
 
I could really use a good wiring diagram schematic of this bike.

For some reason all the ones I have don't show this black box check panel box thingy.

Do you have one you could send me? Either way, I'm cuttin' more stuff out. :evil: And for a guy that just knows enough to be dangerous, those are dangerous words. I know it, but I'm still going to do it.

-Kevin

Check your email.
 
Almost done.

Almost done.

OK, everything works. It didn't work first try, but close. Worked from 9:30p-2:30am on this, and sorted out all the problems, but went to bed before I buttoned everything up.

1. My new flasher was in backwards. Had to move the pins in the connector. Removing the TSCU (Turn Signal Control Unit) was as easy as unplugging it and cutting all the wires out. All I had to do was ground the (-) side of the connector. Easy.

2. I spent way too much time soldering together diodes for the single indicator light on the Bandit dash. Turns out they're built into the dashboard already, and that mystery (matching) black lead was for the other set of blinkers. That wasted a bunch of my time, but was a relief to figure out.

3. Bought a smaller starter relay at Lowes for $12.99 yesterday and fits much better in the space. (and doesn't hang down below the trim anymore). I know the Suzuki one would be a better match, but I'm taking easy over authentic.

4. I didn't exactly follow the kill switch relay mod posplayr describes because for some reason I had already changed/removed some of the harness. And the whole thing was open, so I could do it the cleanest way I could figure out. The way the SSPB works is brilliant, and what I did is effectively the same. Now the power for the Dyna 2000 (ignition) comes directly from the SSPB (solid state power box) and the Kill Switch merely is the switch side of the relay in the SSPB.

5. Removing the CPCU (Check Panel Control Unit) was pretty easy once I understood it's function. That involved me physically tracing the wires in and out of it. Most of the lights on the bike won't work with it unplugged, so it's a matter of just bypassing the connector. This also removed a fist full of wires. I would explain how this works if I could in a simple way, but I don't know how.

Again, the route I took on this whole wiring adventure is probably not typical. I removed a lot of handy functions, but I also removed the GS1100 Dash, so much of those features were useless anyway. My auto cancel never worked, and the "Headlight" check light would intermittently light up when clearly the headlight was working. Deleting all that stuff is a relief to me. I've also deleted the kickstand disable switch, the clutch interlock switch, and probably a few other safety items that a responsible citizen should just leave in place.

I did leave 2 wires that ran the whole harness and were doing nothing just for any future modifications I do, but other than that, I removed anything not necessary.

As always, thanks for all the help. And I always like pictures with my posts, so here ya go.

-Kevin

My new fancy garden tractor starter relay:
20140225_153316.jpg


A pile of stuff I removed from the bike:
20140226_022714.jpg


It's hard to make out what's going on here, but at this point I've finished testing everything and I'm starting to wrap up the harness. I'm going to follow Suzuki's method by doing a little pre-wrap, then add a couple of the harness protector tubes, then wrap the whole thing. It was 2:30am by the time I was taking this picture, and I was ready for bed:
20140226_022704.jpg


This is not pretty, but basically how it looks during testing. I'm still waiting for my Series R/R to show up. Should be here this week. Once it gets here I'll make this area nice and neat:
20140226_022802_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
 
Last edited:
She's alive!!!

She's alive!!!

Got her all buttoned up this morning and rode the bike to work. Carbs aren't perfect, but for all the changes I've made, it was pretty fun. The GSXR controls are just so much better and easier to use than the crap GS ones I had. I even incorporated the choke control using the (newer) throttle cable from my old GS controls. I had to make a little bracket on the carbs, and make a little retainer for the hand controls, but that's par for this project.

I hope to pick up my new Series R/R today, but it's not in yet, so I'm still using the Electrex one I bought as an upgrade 9 years ago. Once that's in, I'll be done with all the electrical. That's not true, I have a tiny gear indicator coming from China, and I'm going to wire in a Headlight Kill switch as well. I also want to add a digital oil temp gauge if I can find one I like.

-Kevin

This is the trick SSPB
20140228_104648_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


Glory shot. Needs a bath. I need a 90 deg fitting coming out of the R MC to clean up that supply line. My used Corbin seat needs to be replaced. I need to re-polish all the shiny bits... the list goes on forever.
20140228_120246_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


The space between the Bandit cluster and the triple clamp will be the home of a new panel with some custom stuff.
20140228_120308_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


This little clip took me waaaaaay too long to make. Made it 3 times. Aluminum didn't work, crappy sheet metal didn't work. Finally a scrap piece of steel worked well.
20140228_120429_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg


Same thing with this little hanger. I mounted it 4 times before it was perfect. Just took me forever to fabricate and instal such a simple part.
20140228_120353_Richtone%2528HDR%2529.jpg
 
Last edited:
Back
Top