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Anonymous
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thats a good buy mine set me back $120
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Anonymous
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yeah and mine are also from the suzuki dealer
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Anonymous
Guest
I think it's a red switch at least it is on mine and it's on the right hand controls. it should be set to RUN If it's anything like mine it would be in the down postion.
Mine won't start without the clutch pulled in but it won't turn the starter either. I get nothing at all
Spark, fuel and compression is what you need to start. Make sure you have all three.
I'd say if it runs with starter fluid it has to be fuel because the other two obvioiusly worked. Starter fluid won't make up for spark or compression.
Check those lines and make sure everything flows from the tank to the fuel intlet. Are you sure it's hooked up to the fuel inlet?
Run a line from the fuel tank to a gas can see if flows good for more then a few seconds. Try it in all positions on the petcock.
There should a pretty good flow coming out of it...No dribbles.
Is there a fuel filter make sure it flows, I just worked on one that was backwards.(not a suzuki.) Makes no sense to me but when I turned it around it flowed and ran after that. Werid.
Most of all don't panic or let yourself get too frustraited take a break and think about it. I'm still trying to get that one right..,hahahaha Sometimes I do and other times I don't and always wished I had.
l
Mine won't start without the clutch pulled in but it won't turn the starter either. I get nothing at all
Spark, fuel and compression is what you need to start. Make sure you have all three.
I'd say if it runs with starter fluid it has to be fuel because the other two obvioiusly worked. Starter fluid won't make up for spark or compression.
Check those lines and make sure everything flows from the tank to the fuel intlet. Are you sure it's hooked up to the fuel inlet?
Run a line from the fuel tank to a gas can see if flows good for more then a few seconds. Try it in all positions on the petcock.
There should a pretty good flow coming out of it...No dribbles.
Is there a fuel filter make sure it flows, I just worked on one that was backwards.(not a suzuki.) Makes no sense to me but when I turned it around it flowed and ran after that. Werid.
Most of all don't panic or let yourself get too frustraited take a break and think about it. I'm still trying to get that one right..,hahahaha Sometimes I do and other times I don't and always wished I had.
l
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Anonymous
Guest
it already is in the run position
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Anonymous
Guest
The suzuki petcock has three positions, run, prime and reserve. In the run and ,depending on year, reserve positons it will only deliver fuel when engine vacuum is applied. Prime setting allows gravity flow to the carbs.
Set the petcock to prime or p and let the bike set for about five minutes. Try starting it. If it still won't run, crack a bowl drain(a small bolt on the bottom of the float bowl on each carb) and see if gas is in the float bowls.
If gas runs out, your problem is in the carbs, probably plugged jets. If no gas runs out then you should look at the petcock, fuel filter or fuel lines for blockages. Don't forget to check the tank itself, as foreign debris or rust flakes can block the fuel from flowing to the petcock.
Set the petcock to prime or p and let the bike set for about five minutes. Try starting it. If it still won't run, crack a bowl drain(a small bolt on the bottom of the float bowl on each carb) and see if gas is in the float bowls.
If gas runs out, your problem is in the carbs, probably plugged jets. If no gas runs out then you should look at the petcock, fuel filter or fuel lines for blockages. Don't forget to check the tank itself, as foreign debris or rust flakes can block the fuel from flowing to the petcock.
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Anonymous
Guest
ok!i checked the carb bowls and they are getting fuel but it still wont start and it also has strong spark and the kill switch is on run position.so what else could it be?
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Anonymous
Guest
OK, well let's look at what we know. It'll start on starting fluid, so the timing and dwell angle on the points is at least close enough to rule that out for now (I'm going on memeory here, but I belive your bike has points). You're getting fuel to the float bowls, so the petcock and fuel lines are probably working. You found water in the float bowls which probably means the bike was laid up with gas in the tank and withour a fuel preservative like Stabil.
What this means is that the carbs are probably not delivering fuel internally. Gasoline will go stale if left, and will also attract water as you found. Also, and possibly the cause of your problem it will form a shellac-like deposit in the carbs, especcially in the jets and air passages that will block fuel flow. Also, the corrosion from the water will introduce scale into the fuel also blocking small passages.
So, things to try. While the carbs are on the bike, make sure the choke is actually working when you pull the knob. If you have the airbox off you can also try hand choking the engine while you crank it over.
Try starting it with the gas cap off, as the vent in the cap can clog, causing a vacuum in the tank. Out there, but I've seen it.
Be certain that the vaccum and fuel lines to the petcock are not reversed.
Check the rubber boots that hold the carbs to the engine. If you have air leaks here air will bypass the carbs thus no fuel is drawn from the jets.
After that, the carbs come off, and you will need a manual (the best $20 you can spend on the bike anyway).
Soak the carbs overnight in carb cleaner then use fine wire and compressed air if possible to clean the jets and air passages in the carb. Be careful with the jets, as they are brass and can be damged while you're poking around in them. Be careful on re-assembly not to interchange the jets. The idle and primary can be interchanged, and that won't work.
Here's where you need the manual and a caliper or machinist's rule. Seth the float heights.
Make certain that the slides move freely and the needles are at the correct adjustment and not bent or damaged.
Most of this won't require a rebuild kit if your gaskets are ok. Re-assemble,check your cables and linkages, charge your battery and try again.
Oh, and I should have said this before. You are going to have gas everywhere while you do some of this, so no smoking and watch for sparks. I burned a sweet honda 360 to the ground this way. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
If you haven't already, change the oil and filter when you get it running and about 500 miles later. The old oil will do many of the bad things that stale gas will.
What this means is that the carbs are probably not delivering fuel internally. Gasoline will go stale if left, and will also attract water as you found. Also, and possibly the cause of your problem it will form a shellac-like deposit in the carbs, especcially in the jets and air passages that will block fuel flow. Also, the corrosion from the water will introduce scale into the fuel also blocking small passages.
So, things to try. While the carbs are on the bike, make sure the choke is actually working when you pull the knob. If you have the airbox off you can also try hand choking the engine while you crank it over.
Try starting it with the gas cap off, as the vent in the cap can clog, causing a vacuum in the tank. Out there, but I've seen it.
Be certain that the vaccum and fuel lines to the petcock are not reversed.
Check the rubber boots that hold the carbs to the engine. If you have air leaks here air will bypass the carbs thus no fuel is drawn from the jets.
After that, the carbs come off, and you will need a manual (the best $20 you can spend on the bike anyway).
Soak the carbs overnight in carb cleaner then use fine wire and compressed air if possible to clean the jets and air passages in the carb. Be careful with the jets, as they are brass and can be damged while you're poking around in them. Be careful on re-assembly not to interchange the jets. The idle and primary can be interchanged, and that won't work.
Here's where you need the manual and a caliper or machinist's rule. Seth the float heights.
Make certain that the slides move freely and the needles are at the correct adjustment and not bent or damaged.
Most of this won't require a rebuild kit if your gaskets are ok. Re-assemble,check your cables and linkages, charge your battery and try again.
Oh, and I should have said this before. You are going to have gas everywhere while you do some of this, so no smoking and watch for sparks. I burned a sweet honda 360 to the ground this way. Have a fire extinguisher handy.
If you haven't already, change the oil and filter when you get it running and about 500 miles later. The old oil will do many of the bad things that stale gas will.
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Anonymous
Guest
Sorry, forgot one thing. Check the carb vent tubes. These keep the float bowl from forming a vacuum, and if they are clogged or kinked no fuel will flow from the carbs.
Good luck with this bike. Old bikes can be frustrating at times, but they are a lot of fun. Just remember, anything that is wrong with a machine can be fixed.
Good luck with this bike. Old bikes can be frustrating at times, but they are a lot of fun. Just remember, anything that is wrong with a machine can be fixed.
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Anonymous
Guest
Forgive me for being blunt, but the first thing you need when working on a bike is patience. Bikes are complex machines, and when tuning them, especially the carbs, they'll require a lot of patience. Grab yourself a soda for sippin' and be prepared to do a little work, ask a questions, wait for an answer, and repeat. In the mean time, do a chore, ponder the universe or smoke a cigar (not around the gas-impregnated carbs, obviously).
Second, you need a service manual. The Haynes or Clymer manuals are good enough. It's kinda hit-and-miss. My 450 Clymer is kinda pathetic because it tries to cover 25 different cheap bikes, but my 1100 Clymer is excellent, and only covers 4 primo bikes. Anyway, get one. It'll cost something like $20.
We at GSR are glad to help you out. Best of luck and welcome to the forum!
Michael
Second, you need a service manual. The Haynes or Clymer manuals are good enough. It's kinda hit-and-miss. My 450 Clymer is kinda pathetic because it tries to cover 25 different cheap bikes, but my 1100 Clymer is excellent, and only covers 4 primo bikes. Anyway, get one. It'll cost something like $20.
We at GSR are glad to help you out. Best of luck and welcome to the forum!
Michael
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Anonymous
Guest
ibex said:
Are we allowed to laugh at that?
I guess I shouldn't be the one to laugh though. I had a petcock that leaked through the vacuum diaphragm, and I had the brilliance to pull the vacuum tube (full of leaked gas) off a hot bike, spilling gas all over the hot exhaust pipes (not smart). The gas just boiled off but for sure it was damn close to exploding. ](*,)
Michael
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Anonymous
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mopolopo said:
You sure can. I think anytime I can pull off a stunt like that without hurting anything but my dignity its worth a chuckle. :lol:
What mine was, was a leaky fuel hose that dripped onto a (badly) spliced wire. When the tape disolved enough the wire arced, and the rest is history. Live and learn
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Anonymous
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Not a Honda 360 
That was my first bike :\
That was my first bike :\
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Anonymous
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Honda CB 360T, blue. It was my first bike bought new with the proceeds from a summer job in my junior year in high school. I was 20 when the immolation happened and it broke my heart.
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Anonymous
Guest
oh, a CB. Mine is a 1976 Honda CJ360T. either way, very nice bikes. I think your model just had the dual exhaust? Disk brake in the front too.
I agree completely with ibex. It sounds like your jets are clogged or something else restricting the gas to the cyclinders. Are the plugs wet? If so, you may not be getting a strong enough spark, but it will fire with starting fluid (im pretty sure starting fluid is more flammable, thats why they use it instead of gas) so you wouldnt need a strong spark for that. Although its very doubtful.
And get a manual! .. I still need to get one
I agree completely with ibex. It sounds like your jets are clogged or something else restricting the gas to the cyclinders. Are the plugs wet? If so, you may not be getting a strong enough spark, but it will fire with starting fluid (im pretty sure starting fluid is more flammable, thats why they use it instead of gas) so you wouldnt need a strong spark for that. Although its very doubtful.
And get a manual! .. I still need to get one
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Anonymous
Guest
my baby, circa 1978.
Jaykup, you have a good piont about weak spark and starting fluid. These bikes actually fire 2 cylinders at a time, and if the plugs or leads are in bad shape the stronger spark goes to the cylinder on it's exhaust stroke.
Definitely worth checking.
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Anonymous
Guest
I had the same problem with my bike when I got it. Here's the deal. Your carbs are jacked. Take them off the bike and tear them apart again. Let them soak in carb cleaner (you can buy this at any cycle shop and it comes in like 2 gal. cans). After soaking for a WHOLE DAY, take and air compressor and blow out all the holes (inside and outside the carb), check jet settings and float settings and reassemble and put back on bike. Now try to start it again.
If you have spark, fuel flow and your kill switch is set to run like you say, then it should start.
Why take the carbs off and clean them again you ask, well I'll tell you why. When your dad cleaned them the first time he got most of the gunk out of them, but not all of it. Water will turn gas into a glue like substance and clog everything up. When you put the carbs back on the bike it ran, but only until the gunk broke free and glogged up something. Just because your carbs have gas in the bowls does not mean gas is flowing through the carbs and into the intake.
I would also pull the hose from the carb the goes to the tank (pull the carb side of it and not the tank side). Put hose into a gas can and set your petcock (tank valve) to prime. You should have a fast flow of gas from the hose into the gas can. If not, bring that valve back to the dealer you got it at and request another one because that one is broke also.
Try those two things and get back to us. I would be almost willing to bet my bike on the carbs being your trouble.
If you have spark, fuel flow and your kill switch is set to run like you say, then it should start.
Why take the carbs off and clean them again you ask, well I'll tell you why. When your dad cleaned them the first time he got most of the gunk out of them, but not all of it. Water will turn gas into a glue like substance and clog everything up. When you put the carbs back on the bike it ran, but only until the gunk broke free and glogged up something. Just because your carbs have gas in the bowls does not mean gas is flowing through the carbs and into the intake.
I would also pull the hose from the carb the goes to the tank (pull the carb side of it and not the tank side). Put hose into a gas can and set your petcock (tank valve) to prime. You should have a fast flow of gas from the hose into the gas can. If not, bring that valve back to the dealer you got it at and request another one because that one is broke also.
Try those two things and get back to us. I would be almost willing to bet my bike on the carbs being your trouble.
P
Planecrazy
Guest
One more thing that you may or may not be aware of ... even in perfect running condition, a lot of our GS's tend to be difficult to start when cold. My '80 550L, for example, with factory rebuilt carbs (several times over the years) has always been difficult to start cold. The ONLY, I repeat, ONLY way that bike starts cold is with the choke pulled completely out (and I mean tugged tight) and crank the bike over repeatedly without giving any gas at all.
It got slightly better when I upgraded the ignition with high performance electronic parts (although my bike already had electronic ignition), but it is a very finicky bike. I tend to agree with most of the others that there is still a problem with your carbs, but even after it's solved don't be too surprised if you still have to fully choke the motor and crank a bit to get it to start.
Keep in mind, when you spray starting fluid in, you're probably balancing the air/fuel mixture or even slightly flooding the motor with readily flammable fuel, but once it burns out even if you're getting fuel flow from the carbs there may be too much air in the mixture, SO make absolutely sure that you've choked it as much as you can...
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Steve 8)
It got slightly better when I upgraded the ignition with high performance electronic parts (although my bike already had electronic ignition), but it is a very finicky bike. I tend to agree with most of the others that there is still a problem with your carbs, but even after it's solved don't be too surprised if you still have to fully choke the motor and crank a bit to get it to start.
Keep in mind, when you spray starting fluid in, you're probably balancing the air/fuel mixture or even slightly flooding the motor with readily flammable fuel, but once it burns out even if you're getting fuel flow from the carbs there may be too much air in the mixture, SO make absolutely sure that you've choked it as much as you can...
Hope this helps, and good luck!
Steve 8)
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Anonymous
Guest
does anyone have a diagram of the carbs for a 1977 gs750!any diagrams?
Help
Help
While you're waiting for the manual and diagram. Find a hill, full choke no twist of the throttle, run switch on, key on, neutral to 2nd, let out clutch, see what happens.
Your carbs are probably gummed up as everyone else has said, but this way you'll be riding for a block or two.
Did anyone mention to change the gas in the tank, not add to it, but drain and fill with new? I can't remember, Carter
Help
While you're waiting for the manual and diagram. Find a hill, full choke no twist of the throttle, run switch on, key on, neutral to 2nd, let out clutch, see what happens.
Your carbs are probably gummed up as everyone else has said, but this way you'll be riding for a block or two.
Did anyone mention to change the gas in the tank, not add to it, but drain and fill with new? I can't remember, Carter
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Anonymous
Guest
I don't know if this applies to your carbs, but mine have three jets per carb. It's easy to overlook the little pilot jet, because it's deep in a narrow hole that's capped with a rubber plug. If you miss those, you'll definitely have starting and idling problems.
One thing I've learned is to use good fitting screwdrivers on jets. If the blade doesn't fit properly in the slot, you can easily damage it. Brass is pretty soft. I have a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers that work like a champ, so I recommend them highly.
FWIW,
One thing I've learned is to use good fitting screwdrivers on jets. If the blade doesn't fit properly in the slot, you can easily damage it. Brass is pretty soft. I have a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers that work like a champ, so I recommend them highly.
FWIW,
