Plugged tire experinces and stories

[bwringer]

I like to use these, if the tire is relatively new. I use a plug kit
to get me home. Once home, the tire comes off and a Plug-Patch
is installed from the inside. I've probably used 7 or 8 of these over
the last 10 years and have never had one fail, Used with volcanizing
cement, it actually does become part of the tire. Recently ran a tire
repaired with one of these on the Blackbird for 4K miles.

Patch-N-Plug is one of the best repairs for nail hole injuries in the crown or sidewall, including speed rated radial tires. Cord reinforced radial and conventional all-rubber units are offered. Directions: Drill out injury hole, then cement the repair on the inside of the tire and push through the hole. Using pliers, pull the quill until the repair unit seats. Stitch the patch-N-Plug down from the inside and cut off excess plug rubber so that it will flush with the crown or sidewall.

Where might one purchase these?

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I'm interested in hearing your stories and experiences regarding running a plugged rear tire after experincing a flat. I know that front tires present a whole nother concern so for simplicity sake I'm wanting to limit this discussion to the rear tire only.

The reason I ask is because during my pre-ride inspection this morning I found a small sheet metal screw in the face of my rear tire, a Dunlop 402 with only less than 2000 easy miles on it. The screw was through the thick part of contact face of the tire and not in the bottom of the tread channel.
Since it was a very small screw and I always ride very conservativly anyway (never over 55 MPH) I plan to have the tire properly repaired at a shop and plan to continue to use it.

GS750GUY

If you haven't fixed it yet, be sure the tire is leaking first. Maybe the screw didn't penetrate too deep?
You can usually just put some spit on the screw and look for any air bubbles. Push it a little side to side while checking. If still no bubbles, remove the screw slowly by turning it and watching for bubbles.

 

[GS750GUY]

If you haven't fixed it yet, be sure the tire is leaking first. Maybe the screw didn't penetrate too deep?
You can usually just put some spit on the screw and look for any air bubbles. Push it a little side to side while checking. If still no bubbles, remove the screw slowly by turning it and watching for bubbles.

I don't usually have that kind of luck.......and I didn't this time either. The screw had a very small hex head on it giving the appearance that it was a very small screw. However, the shaft of the screw was long enough to punch clear through. The shaft of the screw only measures 1/8" diameter....so it's not a very large hole at all. My friend that has had many experiences with flats in his day said since the hole is so small to just plug it and forget about it. He said he had plugged much larger holes in his day and had no problems just using well installed plugs.

Anybody out there experienced blowouts on the front end that want to tell about their experiences?

GS750GUY

 

[chuckycheese]

Rear

Rear

I'm often wrong.......but I thought I read somewhere that a blowout on the front at highway speeds is less controlable and potentially more disasterous than a blowout on the rear.
GS750GUY

If it had to happen to me, I'd very much prefer that it be the rear tire!

I've never plugged a bike tire but I had a car tire plugged once and I suffered a 'blow out' on the freeway about 2 days later. I'd plug a tire on a motor scooter that I only rode around town, with no hesitation. On a motorcyle that I ride at high speeds, I'd be really reluctant to do it, except as a very short term fix. If others are willing to rely on those things, it's perfectly fine with me; I guess I just get scared easily!:-s

 

[GSXXZRX]

http://www.blackjacktirerepair.com

bwringer, under patches.

 

[paintmann111]

At work we use the plug than a patch with the vulcunizing cement. It is imperative that the inside of the tire be buffed where the patch is going, then cleaned with a brass brush to insure a solid, even, and clean contact spot. Once pluged and patched the tire is like new. Research RMA tire repair standards and it shows you how to do it. Its the industry standard, that unfortunatley not a lot of places follow.

 

[CB900SS]

I have used patch-plug combos with perfect success. its cemented in place and looks like a rubber plug with a metal rod on one end and a patch connected to the other end.

I had a nail in my front tire with less then 500 miles on a new set of tires. I got this rubber patch-plug, to install it you pull the tire off the rim, ream the hole, sand the inside of the tire wear the patch plug, put cement on both the patch and the tire, let it set, then stick the metal end of the patch-plug in the hold from the inside, pull it through the other side and make sure that the patch is pressed down firmly to the inside of the tire, and finally razor off the excess of the plug from the outside. Make sure the cement dries before re-mounting the tire and have it re-balanced.

It still holds fine to this day.

 

[OzJavelin]

I worked during holidays in a tyre store with my Dad for many years. In that time I fitted a LOT of internal patches to car tyres and do not remember one of them coming back as failed. I've always wondered how motorbike tyres are patched? I thought you could plug them but I'm not sure if it's legal in Australia? (I thought it was illegal previously).

BTW: I was always told that a more dubious tyre - i.e. retread, worn, patched, plugged, etc - should be fitted to the rear of a CAR because in the event of a blowout at least the front can be controlled by steering. Does anyone know if this is true and if it would be applicable to motobikes .. e.g. patch/plug front tyre but not rear?

 

[Steve]

It is imperative that the inside of the tire be buffed where the patch is going, then cleaned with a brass brush to insure a solid, even, and clean contact spot.

I just LOVE details.

Is there something magical about brass, or can a stainless steel brush be used to do the same job? Maybe the brass is just a bit softer?
Either way, they are both harder than the rubber, so I am just curious ... why the brass? :-k

.

 

[Clone]

Well, picked up a screw about 15mm off the centre line of the rear tire. So since new tires are in order this summer I figured I would plug it and get it overwith. So I carefully removed the screw watching the angle so that when I put in the rasp it took the same angle. I juiced up the plug with glue and jammed it in, I was surprised, I usually don't get good results with a plug but so far, no leakage. I will try it out tomorrow on the way to work and see if it leaks.

 

[GS750GUY]

Well, picked up a screw about 15mm off the centre line of the rear tire. So since new tires are in order this summer I figured I would plug it and get it overwith. So I carefully removed the screw watching the angle so that when I put in the rasp it took the same angle. I juiced up the plug with glue and jammed it in, I was surprised, I usually don't get good results with a plug but so far, no leakage. I will try it out tomorrow on the way to work and see if it leaks.

Just an update on the 1/8" diameter screw hole in the rear tire of my 78 GS750EC that started this thread.
This 1/8" diameter hole was approximately 3/4" to right of center line. I plugged it approximately two weeks ago, have put nearly 500 miles on the bike since then and the tire is loosing no air at all. Last weekend I took a nice long cruise on two lane blacktop in the country and at times doing 60MPH. I notice the plug has leveled off flush with the tire face and almost seems to have become part of the tire itself. I think I'm going to forget about patching it from the inside and just ride it.
GS750GUY

 

[old_chopper]

I usually cut the plug off just short of the tire with a razor so there isn't a long piece sticking out of the tire. I put a pointy rock thru a brand new Metz rear tire (on my V-Rod) at Sturgis a few years ago. Aired it up and rode to a small gas station where some kid was working. I gave him $5.00 to plug it. I replaced the tire 8,000-10,000 miles later because it ran out of tread. Never leaked.

 

[Jethro]

I didn't read the whole thread, but I carry and use gummy worm type plugs with the reamer tool and insert tool. The trick is how well you install the plug. First thing is to try and install the plug as soon as possible, while the tire is still warm. Use the reamer tool, which has a dual purpose most people don't realize. First is to clean and make the hole uniform, but almost more importantly to cause friction to heat up the hole. So it's very important to go nuts with the reamer, almost like you are trying to use two sticks to light a fire. I think that heat is the key to getting those gummy worms to seal real good. I then air the tire immediately and let it cool for a half hour or so (if I have time) and then cut the worm off fairly flush with the tire.

Depending on how well the installation goes and where the puncture is, I will ride without worry at all, even on a front tire. It's easy to tell how the installation goes.

 

[sk843143]

im realy suprised at this thread ...... i am getting ready to graduate from unoh a automotive tech school. in two months i will have a degree in automotive tech along with a degree in highperformance automotive and an assoc. of aplyed science. i tell you this so you know that im not some jack ass with another openion.
now what happens when you get a screw in your tire is not only that the screw creates a hole in the rubber of the tire it also rips holes in the bands of the tire the bands are the structure of the tire it holds its shape and holds it togeather . the plugs usualy have a reamer that reams the hole to a bigger size ( or a size that the strings are designed to fit) this cuts more of the bands further decreacing the streanth of the tire
i cant speak for anyone else but i wouldnt use a plug for anything other than to get to a shop for a new tire.and even then i would only use it if i couldnt find a ride to a shop.
sorry about the spelling ........ im in the middle of changing the coils on my gs1100 and putting a clutch in a ford ranger

 

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Part of the thinking behind running a plugged tire is the ridiculous price of some tires. We're being ripped off and it makes people compromise.

 

[rphillips]

SK, Please don't mention this to the U.S. Federal Safety Standards people, If they get that idea in their heads, they will probably make patches and plugs against the law. I can't afford buying a new tire every time I have a flat!!!!!

 

[earlfor]

On the previous set of tires on my Bandit 12, I picked up a roofing nail in the center of the rear tire when the tire had about 2000 miles on it. Average tire life is usually about 6500 miles, so I was not eager to throw away a $180 tire. I put a sticky wick type plug in it and trimmed it on the outside so that about 1/4 of the wick was left showing. I replaced the tire at 6500 miles with no problem from the patch and never a leak.

Earl

 

[Clone]

Considering how hard I have heard Earl pushes his bikes, the centre of the tire probably had more rubber than the shoulders.

Remember that up here in Canuckada we get boned twice as hard for tires as you guys in the states so as far as I am concerned anything I can do to get more life out of a tire is important.
:-$
That means pluggin' it.
:-$

 

[paintmann111]

I just LOVE details.

Is there something magical about brass, or can a stainless steel brush be used to do the same job? Maybe the brass is just a bit softer?
Either way, they are both harder than the rubber, so I am just curious ... why the brass? :-k

.

Sorry to get back to you so late... Brass is used because it is a lot softer than regular steel. If steel was used it would scrap the inside of the liner even more, while the brass just brushes off the lose rubber. You want to use a buffing wheel on a high speed drill. You must be very careful though not to buff to much because if you buff down to the belt, you have ruined the tire. You basically want a darker color than the surrounding area. A dark buffed area. All you are doing is buffing away the silicon that tires are sealed with. Since rubber is pourous, it can't hold air effectively, so they line the inside of the tire with silicon to seal the air inside, otherwise the air would literally leak through the tread and sidewalls. Basically its:

1. Spray inside of tire with pre-buff cleaner, than scrap inside with scraper to remove top layer of silicon.
2. Drill out hole with approprite size drill bit (no bigger than 1/4inch) to clean out hole.
3. Insert plug with light coating of blue vulcunizing cement making sure to leave about 1/4 to 1/2 inch sticking out into the inside of the tire.
4. Trim plug flush with snipers on both the inside and outside of tires.
5. Use buffing wheel to buff silicon and rubber to a dark finish.
6. Use a brass brush to remove debris.
7. If shop vac is handy, suck up debris from inside of tire. (be sure to stay away from buffed area!)
8. Apply a thin layer of vulcunizing cement to buffed area, (remember a thin layer is all you need, its not actual glue, so if you put to much it takes forever for the patch to bond with the tire/cement).
9 Wait for cement to become tacky to the touch, touch the outside edge away from the plug to test tackyness.
10. Apply patch and use a roller wheel to mate the patch with the tire, leave the clear plastic backing on the patch, (but obviously remove the foil side).
11. After using a roller wheel to mate the patch with the tire, carefully remove the plastic backing. Rub the edge of the patch to see if the patch completely sealed to the tire.
12. Apply a generous amount of tire repair sealant to cover the patch and surrounding buffed area. Let stand for about 5 mins then mount tire.

 

[errorcauser]

That's the way I've always seen it done that works best. Patch the tire from the inside. Buff the inside of the tire and patch it, it'll stay sealed from now on.

Never seen it done by drilling the hole out though, only buffed and patched.