Procedure for removing rotor on 1100ED

[darrell3001]

This is a 1983 GS1100E.

The starter clutch recently started to grind on start attempts. Replacement springs and rollers ordered. Lets hope (pray) its a simple fix.

Anyway, im looking at the service manual for removal of nut that secures the rotor. It calls for a Rotor Holder special tool. This tool is astronomically priced. Is there an alternate way to lock the crankshaft so i can get the retainer nut off? Im thinking that i could hold the crankshaft on the other side near the signal generator. Seem there is a pretty beefy nut there, im just not sure if that is the easiest/safest/correct way to do it. Also, i was planning on using an impact gun to break the nut free. Assuming that holding the crankshaft on the signal generator side is an acceptable alternative, is it still ok to break it loose with an impact gun?

If this is already well documented on another thread, pls direct me to it.

PS.. Iv also ordered a puller off of Ebay. Seems the consensus is that Ebay stuff is crap, but hopefully, it will work for one or two applications.

Regards,

Darrell

 

[rphillips]

Not professional, but a broom handle through the rear wheel spokes, trans in high gear, and clutch engaged. rotate forward till broom handle rests, locks, against something it won't damage damage. impact probably not needed, but shouldn't hurt a thing. I'd think any puller should work.

 

[Suzukian]

The tool screws onto the rotor. The bolt pulls the rotor out. Do not try hitting anything. I believe it is a tapered interference fit. You could make a tool buy finding the right side threaded pipe and then welding a nut to it, so that you can thread in a bolt. The bolt when tightened will will pull the rotor off. To put back on, you just place if back on the crankshaft and torque to spec. I've sent you a P.M. You risk doing some serious damage by locking the rear wheel.

 

[rphillips]

Sorry for any wrong, damaging info., just the only way I've had to do it. Your idea of the bolt on the other side "will work", all you want is to do is hold it till loose, but be careful nothing on the other side strips, brakes, or over tightens as loosening one side is always tightening the other....Hopefully not as big of deal as you may think...

 

[darrell3001]

I got the nut off. Small amount of heat and impact wrench and the retaining nut broke free. I didnt even have to hold the crankshaft. Now I will just wait for the puller to arrive and i should be able to extract the rotor. Thanks for the info!

Regards,

Darrell

 

[Rob S.]

Show us pics of the bike (especially if it's red). :welcoming:

 

[Suzukian]

If you have a threaded pipe that fits onto the rotor housing, you can weld a nut into it and as the bolt screws into that nut the rotor will pull itself out. Did you get the P.M. I sent you?

 

[darrell3001]

If you have a threaded pipe that fits onto the rotor housing, you can weld a nut into it and as the bolt screws into that nut the rotor will pull itself out. Did you get the P.M. I sent you?

Yep. Got your PM. Thanks for that. I’ve actually got a hard copy of that guide so I knew the exact page you were referring. W/R to building the extraction tool, yes looks pretty simple to fab. However I don’t have a welder. My wife draws the line at things that can burn the house down. The tool I ordered off eBay will be here on Friday. If that one is not up for the challenge, then I will seek out a welder to fab the part, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.

 

[dorkburger]

I've read that upon reassembly, some locktite on the crank taper is added insurance to keep the rotor from slipping on the taper if the bike is ridden hard.

 

[Suzukian]

I've read that upon reassembly, some locktite on the crank taper is added insurance to keep the rotor from slipping on the taper if the bike is ridden hard.

I wouldn't advise that. The taper is usually a 1 degree interference fit. It won't happen if tightened to torque. If is is galled, scratched, on the crank, or the rotor, that may be a different condition. Some heating would be required. If both parts are smooth, don't put anything, it can't improve the interference fit. IMHO

 

[Suzukian]

Yep. Got your PM. Thanks for that. I’ve actually got a hard copy of that guide so I knew the exact page you were referring. W/R to building the extraction tool, yes looks pretty simple to fab. However I don’t have a welder. My wife draws the line at things that can burn the house down. The tool I ordered off eBay will be here on Friday. If that one is not up for the challenge, then I will seek out a welder to fab the part, but I will cross that bridge when I get there.

The wife factor can be very compelling. I had to build a Barn to get around that one.

 

[storm 64]

If your E-Bay job doesn't work out or if the wrong size. I could probably lend you my set up if you promise to send it back. Let me know.
I'm not sure how you would make your own, unless you have a M-35X1.5 tap?

 

[rphillips]

"Keep the rotor from slipping on the taper". Yes that was a big problem in "80" & "81", but, if I remember right, the taper was changed in mid "82" & that took care of that problem so his "83" shouldn't have a problem.