Progress!!! 1978 GS1000E Restoration/Performance Rebuild

[blowerbike]

1000's dont have the piano wire deal.
i would try the 1000 inner hub 1st.
1000 steels and fibers are larger OD than 1100's but less plates.
1100's have 9 and 9 including the one behind the piano wire but are smaller diameter.

 

[Guest]

Engine paint and mods looks the dogs bullock as do the rims.

Just to put me correct, that's powder coating on top of powder coating? if so I did not know that could be done.
Was the clear also powder coating?

Dam impressive!
(green monster - envy going hard)

 

[philosopheriam]

Engine paint and mods looks the dogs bullock as do the rims.

Just to put me correct, that's powder coating on top of powder coating? if so I did not know that could be done.
Was the clear also powder coating?

Dam impressive!
(green monster - envy going hard)

All of the colors on the wheels are powdercoat - speedway black, silver, and clear. Each color is laid down one at a time and cured before the next is applied. And yes, there is such a thing as clear powder

 

[philosopheriam]

Two coats primer:

IMG_1077 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1075 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1076 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1078 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1079 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1080 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[philosopheriam]

Three coats VHT universal aluminum:

IMG_1083 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1082 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1081 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1086 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1084 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1085 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[Big T]

Beautiful work Ian


Are you Ok with the oil filter cover off a 79?

The 78 has a drain bolt

 

[philosopheriam]

Beautiful work Ian


Are you Ok with the oil filter cover off a 79?

The 78 has a drain bolt

The name is Anthony, but thanks for the compliment, sir

As for the oil filter cover, there are a few things on my motor that don't match up exactly with the 78 parts fiche - the oils filter cover is one of them. The 78 GS1000 hit the American market in February of 78 and my bike is an April model. So, I have an early motor with a few quirks....

 

[philosopheriam]

Polished Parts

Step 1: Hard wheel with black/hard-cut compound
Step 2: Stitched buff w/red compound
Step 3: Loose buff w/green compound
Step 4: Hand polish with MAAS polishing compound (in French Lavender, ooh la la!!!)

polishedparts by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[philosopheriam]

Head Work: compliments of Ray Rains (rapidray)

Specifications:
APE stainless oversize 1-pc valves, 2mm on intake, 1mm on exhaust
Bronze valve guides
Custom-grind WEB cams
APE viton stem seals
High-performance valve springs (not sure which brand, ask Ray)
Radius valve job
Exhaust & intake ported
Deck surface milled

Exhaust Ports
IMG_1091 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1094 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Intake Ports
IMG_1097 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1098 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

Valves & Deck Surface
IMG_1095 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[philosopheriam]

Spark plug hole repair (compliments of Micron Engine & Machine, Stone Park IL)

Someone stacked x3 Heli-Coils in the #2 spark plug hole . On aluminum heads, I'm not a fan of Heli-Coils as a repair for blown out spark plug threads because they are made of stainless steel and thus they are a poor material for heat transfer - aluminum will draw more heat out of the plug. Also, Heli-Coils can sometimes walk out of place.

The preferred option - a keyed aluminum insert, in this instance I used a Full-Torque branded insert. These inserts are the only ones approved by Ford for repair on damaged spark plug threads in 4.6 and 5.4 engines.

IMG_1096 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr
IMG_1099 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[rapidray]

Anthony, PLEASE make sure you get the manifolds lined up correctly when you re-install them. I know you know this but just wanted to stress it again. Your work looks AWESOME & I can't wait to hear how it runs. Make sure you call me when you are ready to degree the cams so I can walk you thru checking the piston to valve clearance. GREAT job you are doing!!
Ray.

 

[philosopheriam]

Anthony, PLEASE make sure you get the manifolds lined up correctly when you re-install them. I know you know this but just wanted to stress it again. Your work looks AWESOME & I can't wait to hear how it runs. Make sure you call me when you are ready to degree the cams so I can walk you thru checking the piston to valve clearance. GREAT job you are doing!!
Ray.

Ray,

When I removed the manifolds, I marked their orientation and cylinder # - however, with the shoulder bolts that I used, the manifold lines up damn near perfect once you install it. You only get +- .5mm of wiggle room once the manifold is on the shoulder of the bolts.

 

[philosopheriam]

Sorry I haven't posted some updates in awhile - the engine reassembly has begun!

In no particular order:
IMG_1138 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1142 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1149 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1145 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1144 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1148 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1146 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[philosopheriam]

More progress:

IMG_1139 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1147 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1150 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1141 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

IMG_1140 by Anthony Monteleone, on Flickr

 

[first timer]

Where did you source the lower end case studs? I was under the impression APE only made 16v studs but I haven't taken the time to compare 8v to 16v studs

 

[philosopheriam]

Where did you source the lower end case studs? I was under the impression APE only made 16v studs but I haven't taken the time to compare 8v to 16v studs

The lower case studs are actually sold by APE for an 1100 - they swapped out one of the 1100 studs for a shorter one. By doing this, they can then be used on an 1000.

However, during my install, I did note the following:

1. The studs have one long section of threads and one shorter section - the long section is for installation into the case. The 1000 case must have shallower holes as the studs bottomed out before the shoulder of the stud reached the case. So, we installed the studs with the shorter thread length into the case and they worked fine (there was plenty of thread engagement and the studs were just short of bottoming out).

2. The studs must be on the upper end of the thread-fit tolerance - in their original state, the studs would not thread into my case, whereas a regular M8 bolt and the original case bolt would thread in just fine. An M8 nut would thread on the end of the stud OK. So, my case tolerance must have been on the small end and the studs on the high end - running the ends of the studs intended to go into the case on a loosely-adjusted die solved this problem. *VERY* little material was removed from the stud and they would thread in perfectly after this was done.

 

[first timer]

THanks sounds simple enough. Red lock tight for the stud threads in the case? I would like to see a picture of the the bottom case bolted together if you don't mind.

 

[blowerbike]

i wouldn't lock tight the studs...

 

[philosopheriam]

APE suggests a dab of loctite on the main bearing studs, whereas the cylinder studs are installed with oil.

 

[philosopheriam]

Also, I forgot to mention that the studs directly in front of the oil filter cover need to be trimmed about 3/16" (perhaps a smidge less) to allow clearance for the oil filter cover to slip on/off its mounting studs.