probably this has been covered before, but i couldn find it.I think my front springs on my 1980 gs 100 gl are worn out, seem to bottom out easily. The bike has 35,000 miles on it and handles just find. I was thinking aobut replacing the fron fork springs which isnt too hard.I was wondering if anyone here has used the progressive or works springs and or shocks and if the difference was worth it or noticeable.Thanks for any responses given.
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progressive springs
- Thread starter ron bayless
- Start date
Steve
GS Whisperer
I have replaced fork springs with Progressives on other bikes, but not on my Suzukis yet. Made a world of difference. Something you might try, though, before you buy the new springs...change the fork oil. The PROPER AMOUNT of the CORRECT VISCOSITY fork oil will help almost as much as new springs.
Amount? Stick with what is recommended in your service manual.
Viscosity? Personal preference here, but it is heavily influenced by your weight and riding style. Most prefer a 15w. Personally, I prefer 10w. I spend more time on leisurely or spirited rides than I do atacking curves at maximum speeds, so I go for the comfort of 10w.
Amount? Stick with what is recommended in your service manual.
Viscosity? Personal preference here, but it is heavily influenced by your weight and riding style. Most prefer a 15w. Personally, I prefer 10w. I spend more time on leisurely or spirited rides than I do atacking curves at maximum speeds, so I go for the comfort of 10w.
P
Poot
Guest
Hi there,
I ended up changing my fork oil last year, and it did help, although my springs are still going to get replaced this year with progressives. for 90 something bucks, its the cheapest upgrade I can do on my bike, so why not?
I used 20 wt. fork oil last year, but would use 15 with newer springs.
I ended up changing my fork oil last year, and it did help, although my springs are still going to get replaced this year with progressives. for 90 something bucks, its the cheapest upgrade I can do on my bike, so why not?
I used 20 wt. fork oil last year, but would use 15 with newer springs.
You absolutely MUST change the fork springs in a GS to get safe, competent handling.
The difference is amazing -- the stock springs were set up for featherweight Japanese test riders and have had 20 - 25 years to sag. They are dangerous junk.
Now go order those Progressives pronto! And order up new Progressive (or IKON, or Hagon, or a few others depending on your budget) shocks for the back, too. The stock shocks are also evil junk -- crappy to start with, and not improved by years of wear and sag.
Follow the package directions as far as making a proper preload spacer, but feel free to experiment from there depending on your riding style, wieght, and preferences. I ended up with spacers about 1.5 inches longer, but I'm heavy and ride hard.
As far as fork oil, I usually start out with 15W and add a bit of "motor honey" to make it a bit thicker -- about 5% to 10% motor honey. Motor honey is a thick motor oil additive intended to quiet worn-out car engines ling enough to sell off. Don't get it near your motorcycle engine (additives will screw up the clutch), but it works great for fine-tuning fork oil.
After you drain the forks, it's important to run some solvent through to flush out the icky bug parts and wear particles that accumulate in there. After that, let them air out thoroughly before adding fork oil.
When you add fork oil, ignore the spec in your manual for the amount of fork oil. It will be totally wrong because the new springs are thicker and thus a bit less oil is needed. You must set the fork oil LEVEL as specified in the manual. It's pretty easy to rig up a piece of tubing, a few cable ties, and a suction pump or large syringe to create a tool for slurping oil out of forks to precisely the correct distance from the top of the fork tube.
Someone will be along shortly to assert that they "take it easy" and they are happy with the stock shocks and fork. This is bunk -- even if you're more of a cruiser than a roadburner, you have far better odds of staying alive on a machine that can handle emergency maneuvers. The fork is especially important to hard braking -- I don't care how slow you ride, you have to be able to stop hard when that dog/kid/dumptruck driver/geezer in an RV looks at you, smiles, waves, and then enters your path as if you aren't there.
When the choice is a hard stop or killing someone's child (yourself included), would you rather have a fork that bottoms out immediately, then skips and skids out of control? Or would you rather have a fork that can still do its job of keeping the tire in contact with the road under hard braking?
If you're worried that the ride will become harsh, please understand that if preload and sag are set correctly, the fork will be a lot more comfortable because it won't bottom and it can use more of its travel to absorb bumps. If you prefer an easier ride, you can try a lighter weight fork oil which will give you less damping but won't affect braking.
If you don't have the budget to do the whole enchilada at once, upgrade the forks now and get the shocks a little later. The forks are more important because of their effect on braking, and the springs and oil are cheaper than a good set of shocks.
Also, take a close look at your bike before ordering parts -- sometimes good fork springs have already been installed by a previous owner, so all you need to do flush them out, then fine-tune fork oil and preload spacers to suit you.
There are several places selling Emgo shocks for about $80, but you get what you pay for. They are serviceable, meaning they keep the fender off the rear wheel a little better than the worn out stockers, but that's about it. Most people, including me, are very happy with Progressive shocks for about $150-$200 a set.
Progressives are an excellent value and very good shocks, but there are several other good brands of shocks available for more money that give you other advantages, such as being rebuildable, more adjustable, lighter, etc.
The difference is amazing -- the stock springs were set up for featherweight Japanese test riders and have had 20 - 25 years to sag. They are dangerous junk.
Now go order those Progressives pronto! And order up new Progressive (or IKON, or Hagon, or a few others depending on your budget) shocks for the back, too. The stock shocks are also evil junk -- crappy to start with, and not improved by years of wear and sag.
Follow the package directions as far as making a proper preload spacer, but feel free to experiment from there depending on your riding style, wieght, and preferences. I ended up with spacers about 1.5 inches longer, but I'm heavy and ride hard.
As far as fork oil, I usually start out with 15W and add a bit of "motor honey" to make it a bit thicker -- about 5% to 10% motor honey. Motor honey is a thick motor oil additive intended to quiet worn-out car engines ling enough to sell off. Don't get it near your motorcycle engine (additives will screw up the clutch), but it works great for fine-tuning fork oil.
After you drain the forks, it's important to run some solvent through to flush out the icky bug parts and wear particles that accumulate in there. After that, let them air out thoroughly before adding fork oil.
When you add fork oil, ignore the spec in your manual for the amount of fork oil. It will be totally wrong because the new springs are thicker and thus a bit less oil is needed. You must set the fork oil LEVEL as specified in the manual. It's pretty easy to rig up a piece of tubing, a few cable ties, and a suction pump or large syringe to create a tool for slurping oil out of forks to precisely the correct distance from the top of the fork tube.
Someone will be along shortly to assert that they "take it easy" and they are happy with the stock shocks and fork. This is bunk -- even if you're more of a cruiser than a roadburner, you have far better odds of staying alive on a machine that can handle emergency maneuvers. The fork is especially important to hard braking -- I don't care how slow you ride, you have to be able to stop hard when that dog/kid/dumptruck driver/geezer in an RV looks at you, smiles, waves, and then enters your path as if you aren't there.
When the choice is a hard stop or killing someone's child (yourself included), would you rather have a fork that bottoms out immediately, then skips and skids out of control? Or would you rather have a fork that can still do its job of keeping the tire in contact with the road under hard braking?
If you're worried that the ride will become harsh, please understand that if preload and sag are set correctly, the fork will be a lot more comfortable because it won't bottom and it can use more of its travel to absorb bumps. If you prefer an easier ride, you can try a lighter weight fork oil which will give you less damping but won't affect braking.
If you don't have the budget to do the whole enchilada at once, upgrade the forks now and get the shocks a little later. The forks are more important because of their effect on braking, and the springs and oil are cheaper than a good set of shocks.
Also, take a close look at your bike before ordering parts -- sometimes good fork springs have already been installed by a previous owner, so all you need to do flush them out, then fine-tune fork oil and preload spacers to suit you.
There are several places selling Emgo shocks for about $80, but you get what you pay for. They are serviceable, meaning they keep the fender off the rear wheel a little better than the worn out stockers, but that's about it. Most people, including me, are very happy with Progressive shocks for about $150-$200 a set.
Progressives are an excellent value and very good shocks, but there are several other good brands of shocks available for more money that give you other advantages, such as being rebuildable, more adjustable, lighter, etc.
S
scotty
Guest
I run progressives in my 1100e for a few years. no more air --seems a bit more stable. I also removed the anti dive unit.
S
SqDancerLynn1
Guest
I was very lucky Bought a set of progressive fork springs last year
on ebay $20 + $15 shipping. Made a big difference
on ebay $20 + $15 shipping. Made a big difference
KGB
Forum Sage
I agree with bwinger.
I've been running progressive brand shocks and spring for years.
best bang for your bucks $$$.
I also run 20 weight oil in both bikes, no air in the forks.
On the 1000S I ordered the "sprcial" heavier springs.
They're in the catalog, you have to look, or call and ask for them.
The 1100E has the heavy springs, the 1000S has the heaviest springs on the rear shocks. It is a stiffer ride, the 1100E isn't plush but is comfortable.
It will make a world of difference.
I've been running progressive brand shocks and spring for years.
best bang for your bucks $$$.
I also run 20 weight oil in both bikes, no air in the forks.
On the 1000S I ordered the "sprcial" heavier springs.
They're in the catalog, you have to look, or call and ask for them.
The 1100E has the heavy springs, the 1000S has the heaviest springs on the rear shocks. It is a stiffer ride, the 1100E isn't plush but is comfortable.
It will make a world of difference.
KGB
Forum Sage
Jethro said:Progessives- yummy!
Love em. I run 15 wt. fork oil and 10 lbs of air. But I'm a fat bastard and I ride way harder and faster than anyone else on here...
that's funny :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I remember getting by you, when I was 2 up.......oh yea, you were leading down that dirt road 8O
I don't run any air in the forks with 20weight.
Works for me, but we all have different riding styles.
If you can try different weight oils in the fork legs.
And I'm sure someone will chime in about the use air, don't use air issues.
I don't use air in my forks because a hunk of pipe (preload spacer) is a much more reliable way to set preload than air retained by the highly fallible fork seals. You also put less stress and wear on the seals by not using air pressure -- the seals last longer and there's less stiction.
The consequences of a sudden loss of pressure could be dire -- imagine being in a fast corner and all of a sudden your front end drops by two inches... ew.
It's also important to note that even at atmosperic pressure at rest, the air trapped in the forks plays an important role when the forks compress. It acts as an additional spring.
I remember reading a while back about a Hardley touring model that had lines running from the air space in the forks to the inside of the handlebars. When you were just cruising to the next tavern, the larger air space would give you a smoother ride so your ol' lady wouldn't spill her beer. The air space acted as a big, soft spring.
When you hit the brakes to slow down for the weenie bite contest, a solenoid valve cut off the connection so that the smaller air space in the forks alone would act as a crude anti-dive. Wouldn't want to slop suds all over your leather buttless chaps, ya know. I have no idea how well it actually worked.
The consequences of a sudden loss of pressure could be dire -- imagine being in a fast corner and all of a sudden your front end drops by two inches... ew.
It's also important to note that even at atmosperic pressure at rest, the air trapped in the forks plays an important role when the forks compress. It acts as an additional spring.
I remember reading a while back about a Hardley touring model that had lines running from the air space in the forks to the inside of the handlebars. When you were just cruising to the next tavern, the larger air space would give you a smoother ride so your ol' lady wouldn't spill her beer. The air space acted as a big, soft spring.
When you hit the brakes to slow down for the weenie bite contest, a solenoid valve cut off the connection so that the smaller air space in the forks alone would act as a crude anti-dive. Wouldn't want to slop suds all over your leather buttless chaps, ya know. I have no idea how well it actually worked.
I can't remember where I bought mine but I looked through my favorites and found this site for progressive springs.
http://www.accwhse.com/progress.htm#Fork springs
Looks like the 11-1107 for the 1100e is 49.95. Seems pretty cheap. I thought i paid more like 90 dollars.
http://www.accwhse.com/progress.htm#Fork springs
Looks like the 11-1107 for the 1100e is 49.95. Seems pretty cheap. I thought i paid more like 90 dollars.
pano said:
That's where I bought mine progressive fork springs from 8) 8)
Put them on my 83GS1100e with 20 weight oil and no air
earlfor said:
If it was, it wasn't the day I got my springs from them. :? :? :?earlfor said:
:lol: Really, really, really great information guys.So, 15 weight oil no air,adjust spacer length, and new front springs it is.The rear ones are pricey but will do them too eventually. Thanks guys, i appreciate the information very much.
A
AOD
Guest
Brian, thanks for all the comments on here, good stuff. The 1100 I'm going to buy needs some suspension help badly, as it's all original and pretty mushy, especially up front. Having the 550's suspension dialed in makes me really want the 1100 to feel the same.
Were you able to do all of your work with the forks in the bike? I know you can't really change the fork seals that way, but if they're good, do you have to pull the forks?
~Adam
Were you able to do all of your work with the forks in the bike? I know you can't really change the fork seals that way, but if they're good, do you have to pull the forks?
~Adam
You can replace the fork springs with the forks mounted on the bike.
On most models, you have to remove the handlebars to access the caps at the tops of the forks. Just put a towel on the tank, remove the handlebars, and lay the handlebars on top of the tank -- leave all the brake lines, wiring, cables, etc. attached. DO NOT move the brake lever while they're upside down.
Put a couple of padded jack stands or what have you under the frame so that the bike is balanced on the center stand and the back wheel, with the front wheel off the ground. Make sure it's stable.
Hold the front wheel between your knees and loosen the fork caps -- the large hex caps at the top of the forks. Don't remove them yet.
Find a comfortable position where you can apply heavy downward pressure while loosening the fork cap. You may need to switch to a breaker bar or a different type of ratchet. I usually fold up an old towel for padding between my chest and the ratchet. With a long enough extension, I then have both arms free to keep everything stable while loosening the caps.
Putting the caps back is a royal PITA when you're using new springs with a lot of preload. Make absolutely sure your setup is stable -- another person would be an excellent idea. They can help stabilize the bike or just stand ready to call 911. It's also best to do this after a holiday season spent "bulking up"... :roll: :roll:
I would also add that once the handlebars are back on, make very sure that your brake, clutch, etc. all work perfectly. You may need to bleed your front brake if air got into the master cylinder while it was upside-down.
On most models, you have to remove the handlebars to access the caps at the tops of the forks. Just put a towel on the tank, remove the handlebars, and lay the handlebars on top of the tank -- leave all the brake lines, wiring, cables, etc. attached. DO NOT move the brake lever while they're upside down.
Put a couple of padded jack stands or what have you under the frame so that the bike is balanced on the center stand and the back wheel, with the front wheel off the ground. Make sure it's stable.
Hold the front wheel between your knees and loosen the fork caps -- the large hex caps at the top of the forks. Don't remove them yet.
Find a comfortable position where you can apply heavy downward pressure while loosening the fork cap. You may need to switch to a breaker bar or a different type of ratchet. I usually fold up an old towel for padding between my chest and the ratchet. With a long enough extension, I then have both arms free to keep everything stable while loosening the caps.
Putting the caps back is a royal PITA when you're using new springs with a lot of preload. Make absolutely sure your setup is stable -- another person would be an excellent idea. They can help stabilize the bike or just stand ready to call 911. It's also best to do this after a holiday season spent "bulking up"... :roll: :roll:
I would also add that once the handlebars are back on, make very sure that your brake, clutch, etc. all work perfectly. You may need to bleed your front brake if air got into the master cylinder while it was upside-down.
A
AOD
Guest
lol.
I have rebuilt the forks on my first GS (sitting in my barn now...) and I remember trying to get the stock springs back into it, quite a pain. When I put new tires on the bike late this summer, I used your 'jack up the front' method to get the front wheel off. It worked well, in fact, I even had the rear wheel off too.
Thanks for the tips, I'm sure others will find it useful too.
So now the question is, where's a good place to get some Progressive springs? Do they offer different spring rates? What are you using? (We each have the same build..)
~Adam
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