Project 85 GS1150EF project.... no start

[1150newb]

Hi all, I posted some of this story in another topic and with the help of some on this forum (starter clutch missing) I've moved the project along but now....

Background, I collected a 85 GS1150EF in pretty complete and clean condition. Was told it hasn't run in 12 yrs. Came from a out of a closed down bike shop (owner passed). No records. No history. Got it home and started to tear it down a bit, get past the fairings. It had been dumped at some point in its life. Right side. Broken mirror, some scuffing on upper fairing, some scuffing on lower fairing, busted a piece of the engine that the right side cover bolts to. Though I found it odd that the cover is in tact and it took at piece of the surrounding material out with one of the little bolts, I don't believe the integrity of electronic ignition assembly was compromised. Someone had mucked with the harness apparently so had to reroute most of the wiring harness but got it all sorted and it lit up as it should.
I cleaned the tank, cleaned the petcock, cleaned the carbs, squirted oil in the cylinders and moved them manually to make sure they weren't seized, new plugs (and I have spark in all four), have fuel in carbs, and vacuum line connected to petcock, new fully charged battery, clutch in, full choke, no throttle, push start button and just cranks...... pulled plugs, appears no fuel getting to plugs I suspect. Checked valves, only 2 tight out of 16, made the adjustment so that shouldn't be an issue.
Could there have been some disruption on that elec. ign. behind the right cover? If so, shouldn't it still start but run rough?

Any thoughts?

 

[dorkburger]

If the plugs are dry I would explore fuel. Did you verify the petcock is flowing fuel? If you suck on the small hose coming off of the back of the petcock it should flow. Putting it on prime should flow fuel as well.

 

[Guest]

Nice bike.

You can try spraying some carb cleaner into the air box and see if it will fire up. If you have spark and the timing is right, it should fire up. is that a '69 Z in the background? You've got good taste in go fast toys.

 

[1150newb]

Thanks for the replies. You're right about the car. Wrong on the ownership. That was the PO's garage. He has two of those cars/projects. Good guy but a Honda guy. He has five VF1000R's in various conditions and a CB900F so he didn't want the big Suzook. I picked it up for $337.00 US ( I did the conversion for you), I've put about another $158 US in parts like the starter clutch and starter rebuild kit and a manual. So I'm not into it for a lot. Just my time and that I don't mind. I want a runner before I throw a few bucks into paint. I've a buddy with autobody shop and he'll redo just the red on the upper and lower fairings, mask the rest for a couple hundred as well. The tank is in nice shape; good decals, no dents. I am missing the little passenger seat mouldings. I think I can source some online unless you know of some for sale.....?
Anyway back to the bike, I did go any try the Pri and full choke (no throttle), it now wants to start. I can hear it; blub, blub, blub blub... getting close to catching. Buuuuut I've killed the battery. On the charger now.
As most have said, a bike sitting that long is fuel starved. It needed (and needs) a dump of fuel. So I'll give it a whirl tomorrow and because they're cheap I'll throw in some new plugs.

 

[BigD_83]

$500 for that beast? What a score! Lucky for you the PO prefers Hondas.

 

[londonboards]

Hook up a car battery to give it full boost at start up. I found that always helps.

 

[dorkburger]

........ with the car not running. Many stories abound of jumping a GS from a running car followed by GS elecetrical failures. A good car battery will have more them enough power.

 

[1150newb]

well, its running! Yes!
Don't know for sure but I think it was spark plugs.... Couple of weeks ago I went to local bike shop, told them make, model, year, and they gave me DR8ES-L. I didn't question it. Fast forward to my try to start it phase and when no success, I checked for spark. It was present in every plug outside of bike. I cleaned them a couple of times throughout the cranking phases and checked gap. I was double checking gap thickness in my Haynes manual and noticed it recommends D8EA. I don't profess to understand plugs lingo but for 6.99 a pair I got 4. Went home put them in and viola, first attempt got me a good rumble that it got me off guard. Subsequent 2nd attempt a bit better then 3rd attempt and I'm running. One minute later I'm off PRI and she's idling. Could it have been plugs? Don't know, But I'm curious if this is strange or not. Does spark change in the hole? good outside, not so good in the hole?
I didn't have a fan so only idled and revved it for a few minutes just to work the oil through the bike then shut it down. Pulled #1 plug and it looks good. No color per se yet but no soot and little oil residue likely from me squirting some in the holes when moving the pistons manually. But very little residue. Today, a bit of a hard start (I'll have to get used to that PRI setting on initial start) but I got it going again and this time let it idle and rev for a bit longer. checked stator and its charging.
#2 a bit sluggish on the get go, might be carb related? float level? Stuff I can check but pretty pleased I've apparently got a runner. I'll do a compression test soon.
Still way ahead on my 'budget' so looks like I'll look into the paint and I'll do the fork seals. I took the afternoon cleaning the entire rear of the bike; removed the rear tire and cleaned all the cruddy chain lube/dirt of all components and gave that gold rim a going over. Really like the gold now that I can see it.
I'll post a pic shortly.
Speaking of which, any thing special about doing the fork seals on these bikes with the PDF(?) system?

 

[hillsy]

Speaking of which, any thing special about doing the fork seals on these bikes with the PDF(?) system?

If you mean the anti-dive, then no - it's the same procedure as any other fork in that you undo the damper bolts to separate the forks.

The 1150's have bushes under the seals as well as on the ends of the stanchions which the manual says to replace if you pull the forks apart. Not sure how much they cost or whether they are still available but probably not a bad idea to look into.

 

[dorkburger]

I did my forks a year and a half ago. All parts available. At 20k miles, the bushings looked ok, but I changed them anyway.

 

[steve murdoch]

Congrats on getting it running.
MIGHT have been the resistor plugs the shop sold to you.
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/faqs/spark-plug-faqs/when-should-i-use-a-resistor-spark-plug

 

[1150newb]

Yes, that might be it. I will make the shop aware of my findings just the same. It appears the plug I originally got superseded the former. Be it fluke, coincidence or act of God the bike started with the new 'old' plugs. If the 'resistor' thing is a thing, it may apply to newer bikes with more advanced electronics. After I get this bike a bit more tuned up I may pop the DH's back in to see if its any different.

 

[1150newb]

Here's a couple of pics before I take off forks.

 

[1150newb]

Tank is in great shape. Old fuel inside but got that sorted and it cleaned up nice.

 

[1150newb]

And cleaned up and serviced the final drive area. Could likely use a new chain and sprockets but will get it on the road first. I like the gold rims with this generation of GS.

 

[Carter Turk]

NGK D9EA spark plugs are considered the stock plug.
Congrats on getting it running. Woohoo!
What's the deal with the bike rolling in gear mentioned in PM?

 

[1150newb]

I think I have the clutch/wheel thing sorted out. I believe I have the arm in the right spot and adjusted the cable correctly. At least now when I pop it in gear, release the lever the wheel doesn't turn manually. (I've not tried as before with me rolling it down a hill.) I did pull the right cover off and removed all the plates (did not take out the entire basket), inspected, measured. All seems in order there. I'm going to replace cable as a rule just the same. It's not expensive. My thoughts are when it was dumped on the right side the lower arm moved on the clutch pinion so it was not engaging with the release piece correctly. I'll know more when I get it going again and go through the gears under some load.

 

[1150newb]

So I've redone the seals, new brake pads, cleaned up the front wheel/forks and reassembled. Starting to look like a bike again. Next up is new petcock and while the tank is off, install a new clutch cable. (the sun is hitting those gold rims just right. I really didn't polish them that well. lol)

Couple of questions for any ES or EF owners (or anyone for that matter really):

1) What color is that fairing insert supposed to be? This is the piece that wraps around the instrument cluster and trails along the tank. Grey? Black? I'm thinking its grey.
2) What would anyone recommend to renew this piece?

 

[Carter Turk]

Mine's black, but faded from the sun and missing most of it's mounting platform.

 

[1150newb]

Mine's black, but faded from the sun and missing most of it's mounting platform.

Yeah, I thought grey because my 'fade' is so consistent. Maybe I'll look closer in the tucked away areas that would have minimal exposure. I'd like to bring this color back without painting. I've used a trim restorer polish (available at most auto stores) in the past. This is the stuff for polishing the plastic trim around truck wheel mouldings or bumpers. Maybe I'll try it but wondered if anyone had any other tips. If I can get these parts to come back I'll tackle the rear fender/tail piece as well.