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Project Beast back on track

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
rustybronco said:
right around my neck of the woods and one of their salesmen comes here at work. let me know if there is a problem.
Click to expand...

My order was perfect, except they missed one bolt. I called them and they sent the missing bolt, no charge. I'm happy. They have a great selection of metric chrome stuff, too.
 
I got the aftermarket cam chain guide. It's different a little, but I think it will work. It's the same length, the curve is a little different, and the area where it will have the tensioner pushing on it is different. But the area on the new one is pretty flat, so I think it will be fine? What do you pros say?

100_4441.jpg


100_4442.jpg


Oh, and I got the last of the side covers painted:

100_4446.jpg
 
Like the covers

Like the covers

Cover looks awesome...powder coating?? or rattle can?? anxious to see you build come together...more pics please!!
 
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Swingarm

Swingarm

That swingarm looks fabulous....did you polish that yourself?
 
jwhelan65 said:
That swingarm looks fabulous....did you polish that yourself?
Click to expand...

Yes, and it took forever! Lots of sanding to get the casting marks out of it. But I ended up using it on my Skunk. I have another one for this project.

100_1951.jpg
 
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Well, I never compared the tensioner guides until just now after I saw that they were slightly different. I could of sworn that the part numbers were the same in between the GS1000 and GS1100 motors. I must of made a mistake somewhere. Im a bit undecided if I should use this tensioner guide. I think the area where the tensioner hits is plenty thick, but I am unsure of the angle. I think the tensioner might dig into the new guide. Im leaning on going towards using the stock chain guide, it has plenty of life left and I never had a problem with one before. I will decide when I start assembling my motor.
 
Tarbash 27 said:
Well, I never compared the tensioner guides until just now after I saw that they were slightly different. I could of sworn that the part numbers were the same in between the GS1000 and GS1100 motors. I must of made a mistake somewhere. Im a bit undecided if I should use this tensioner guide. I think the area where the tensioner hits is plenty thick, but I am unsure of the angle. I think the tensioner might dig into the new guide. Im leaning on going towards using the stock chain guide, it has plenty of life left and I never had a problem with one before. I will decide when I start assembling my motor.
Click to expand...

I'll go out tomorrow and slip the jug on and see how it looks, and take some pics. I sent a PM to rapidray to see if he has used this guide on any 8 valve motors. I have two stock guides and they are both shot. So hopefully this will work, or I'll have to spend the big bucks for a new stock one.
 
let me know cause mine just showed up as well, and i am in the same boat as you two with the guide. I am of the opinion of Bruce and i think it will work there seems to be plenty of meat on it.

on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?
 
first timer said:
let me know cause mine just showed up as well, and i am in the same boat as you two with the guide. I am of the opinion of Bruce and i think it will work there seems to be plenty of meat on it.

on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?
Click to expand...


Yeah, something like that. If I use it, which I think I might, I'll just use my brake line flaring tool to flare the ends.
 
I install this guide in almost every GS motor I build & the pin is a PRESS fit so nothing else is needed except to get it centered. The block keeps it from coming out even if it were loose. Check to see where the tensioner lands on it & make your decision from there. On 16 valvers it's a no brainer. The 8 valvers I'm not sure. Ray.
 
rapidray said:
I install this guide in almost every GS motor I build & the pin is a PRESS fit so nothing else is needed except to get it centered. The block keeps it from coming out even if it were loose. Check to see where the tensioner lands on it & make your decision from there. On 16 valvers it's a no brainer. The 8 valvers I'm not sure. Ray.
Click to expand...

OK, I threw the jugs on and slid on the stock tensioner.....the cam chain guide will be just fine. The surface where they meet is nice and flat and makes contact all the way around the push pad. I don't think it will wear at all. Here's some crappy pics:

100_4478.jpg


100_4476.jpg



I feel better. Now I can get the pistons in and carry on! :)
 
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first timer said:
on a side note how do you guys plan to mount it? Do you have to drill out the old pin to get the guide off and then mushroom the new pin with the new guide installed?
Click to expand...

As Ray said, the roll pin is a friction fit. I had to use a vise to press it in. It won't come out. And yes, I just drilled out the the old rivet.
 
Good enough, Ill put it on. Bruce, are you using the stock or manual tensioner?
 
Wow. Great thread of some exceptional work. Well done!

Those of you that the have the knowledge, skill, resources and patience to complete these full on restoration/rebuilding projects are truly inspirational.

I'll be watching the progress and look forward to the finished product.

Thanks for taking the time to share the progress!
 
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