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Project: Cool Kat II

  • Thread starter Thread starter russr33
  • Start date Start date
I have no issues with the bolts... I believe the caliper mounts were not built to take that additional stress though. :)
 
That bracing is pointless. The whole area is fixed by the wheel bearings, axle and spacers. There's no additional benefit to be expected by that bracing. Only point a stabilizer would make (at least any) sense would be at the most southern point of the outer stanchions.
 
And a large reduction in unsprung weight?

It depends on the fork. You are now hanging a smaller piece of steel where a larger piece of aluminum used to be.

I have no issues with the bolts... I believe the caliper mounts were not built to take that additional stress though. :)

I don't think the caliper mounts will see any stress from that brace, because there won't be any flex in the first place.

They look cooler :)

Very true. :cool:
 
I don't think the caliper mounts will see any stress from that brace, because there won't be any flex in the first place.

If there is no flex then his brace isn't doing anything. If it is not doing anything then its simply added weight to the wheel. So why not remove it?
 
If there is no flex then his brace isn't doing anything. If it is not doing anything then its simply added weight to the wheel. So why not remove it?

I completely agree with removing it. Mostly because it is ugly. The extra weight and unneeded parts don't help.
 
A little more progress. Passenger pegs were just tacked on to see how I liked them; doubt they will last. Exhaust can was just for mock-up purposes as well looking at different angles.

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Also watching. Someday I'll be at your stage in my Kat project
 
Someone knows their way around a TIG welder. Very nice. :)

If we're still discussing the fork brace: I think it's quite pointless too. As the others have pointed out, the whole point of USD forks is their strength. Fork braces were used on older RWU forks simply because they were long, thin and flimsy, and even then they could take a hell of a beating before flexing. The stock Katana forks (for example) are not even remotely comparable to modern USD forks in strength.

As for passenger pegs. I got a pretty neat set from a TL1000S. You could try looking up a set of those on eBay. :)
 
I've always thought that the purpose of a fork brace was to stop the forks twisting (rotating) when the brakes were applied. I don't think that the forces traveling up the fork legs are sufficiently different to distort the axle etc, and that is why it is sometimes recommended that you can put different weight oils in each leg when fine tuning suspension.

Good work so far, am enjoying the thread.
 
Threads like this have prompted me to order some new consumables & bits & peices to go along with the aldi stick welder i bought years ago, but that has been sitting in its box unopened for a couple of years.

Once all the suspension stuff is done and my welding doodads arrive, i'll start having at it to extend the sidestand.
 
I've always thought that the purpose of a fork brace was to stop the forks twisting (rotating) when the brakes were applied. I don't think that the forces traveling up the fork legs are sufficiently different to distort the axle etc, and that is why it is sometimes recommended that you can put different weight oils in each leg when fine tuning suspension.

Good work so far, am enjoying the thread.

Not sure what you mean, any type of bridge between the forks even if it slides up the forks, maintains integrity from any twisting. It does not matter where it is located as long as the forks remain true. I would think this type of brace is actually better than a standard version, it keeps the front wheel in line with forks all the time. IMO
 
I can appreciate the intention and the workmanship, but I've never seen a brace on USD forks before. If they were necessary I'm sure that they would be used on race bikes and would be produced as an aftermarket accessory.

I look forward to your feedback after a ride or two.
 
Jay (who machined the brace) got the idea from a racebike he had seen back in the day. Trying to find a pic. He now has one mounted on his '93 GSXR 7/11 and swears by it. Admittedly he made it and may be biased. There are a couple of us who have recieved one and we will give our reviews of it when our projects are up and running.
 
Progress on the Kat has been steady but slow. That should change in the next couple of months. Gauges are on order as well as sprockets, tires and chain. What I am really excited about is the possibility of Kosman Specialties doing some cool custom pieces for the bike. I sold my 1100ES to a guy named Mike S and his brother Robert bought the company not too long ago. Robert seems like a very nice and knowledgeable guy and seemed very enthusiastic to help. Should be fun to see where it goes. Stay tuned.

Here is a vid of the Koso gauges I am going with. Actually I am going with a slightly different model but you'll get the general idea. I am going with the RX2 (this is the RX2N).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQ78LGLTxac
 
A little progress. Diggin' the battery box although still not quite sure on the horizontal lines. May go with different design or could even leave it bare metal; more of an industrial look. Jay is going to be selling these battery boxes specifically for the gsxr/bandite conversions. If you have any interest you can shoot me a PM.

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Looks like nice progress. Were you able to sort out your issues with those Ohlins shocks? Are they still in the mix?

I love the look of that Koso gauge. The only bad thing is that big number at the top of the tach. I might forget that I wasn't riding the zx-10r and try to wrap that Kat up to about 13,000. :eek: That would be real cool for about 2 seconds.
 
That battery box is very trick, Russ.
On my Honda project, i have been trying to decide whether to go with something like yours or stuffing it in the tail.
 
After further review I like the box! I think you should keep the purple rear wheel too..:D

Box looks great!
 
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