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Question about valve shims...

  • Thread starter Thread starter dead_mike
  • Start date Start date
The thinnest Suzuki shim is 2.15. I think a 2.0 shim will set below the edge of the lip on the shim bucket. Regardless, you need to get closer to your actual shim size in order to proper calculate shim sizes.
 
I got the 2mm shim from Ray.

Hrm, I don't know what I'm going to do I can only get a clearance on two of the valves. Seems that the 2mm is too thin to start with and I don't have anything else close enough to check from. I'll end up going broke buying shims from Ray just to get this set.
 
What measurement do you get with the cam lobe pointed straight away from the bucket? Also, don't forget to rotate the engine a couple times after changing shims to assure they are seated.
 
I know this will start an argument, but you can check four valves at a time. All the cam has to be is on the base circle, not necessarily pointing up. The base circle is more than 180 degrees. So if the cam lobes for the #1 cylinder are pointing outward to the gasket surface, TDC, you can do both intake and exhaust lobes for that cylinder and one on #2 and one on #3. These two cam lobes will be pointing up.

This example is not a GS engine, but that doesn't matter.
AK502387AF00ENG.png

Rotate the engine 360 degrees so the #4 cylinder lobes are pointing outward to the gasket surface, TDC, and check both in and ex valves on #4 and the other ones on #2 and #3.

AK502388AE00ENG.png
 
Rick, that method is what is pointed out in the 16-valve engines, but the 8-valve engines have a different procedure.

It's not enough to have the valve/bucket/shim on the base circle of the cam. You have to have BOTH valves on that side of that cam on the base circle, so the cam is not being pushed askew in the bearing. The only way to do that is to put each lobe at a 45? angle from the valve, which puts them pointing UP and away from the center of the engine (exhausts forward, intakes rearward).

There is a measurable difference in clearance if you don't do it correctly. Some have measured about 0.001" difference. Does not seem like much, but the full range is only 0.002", so you can be off by as much as the full allowable range. Also, keep in mind that the minimum clearance of 0.03mm is 0.0012". If your measurement is off by 0.001", the actual clearance might be too darn close to ZERO.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I'll stick with the manual on this one.

.
 
I wonder if my issue is how I am using the feeler gauges. I think I could do better with the bent style. It seems the head where the valve cover surface is may be interfering with my use of the straight gauges.
 
I use straight feelers all the time. I have thought about getting some bent ones, but haven't done it yet.

.
 
Be sure you are using the Suzuki manual procedure. Type of feelers matters little. If a 2 mm shim still has zero clearance, you may need to replace seats, replace head or try trimming valve stems a bit. Know where you are before doing any of these things. Let me know if I can help.
 
Steve said:
I use straight feelers all the time. I have thought about getting some bent ones, but haven't done it yet.

.
Click to expand...

I use the bent ones only because that's what I have. I have used both types but found it doesn't much matter either way. They're thin enough so they bend to shape easily.
 
I have noticed that space is a bit tighter on the 550s and 650, and thought a bent feeler might be better. However, in my own stable, I only have a couple of 850s, a 1000 and a Wing that has hydraulic lifters, so I don't even need to check clearances. :encouragement:

.
 
Well, that was weird. But I think I figured it out. I decided to try another valve with the 2.0 shim, found the suggested shim of 2.6. Installed the 2.6 and rechecked and it was good. I decided to then check the 2.35x shim with calipers and it measured to 2.5. What the heck? I kept on going and was able to shuffle shims and get 4 valves within spec. I need to trade out some shims and finish it up.

Has anyone ever had a shim not measure the same as it was marked, I mean how would it be thicker than it was marked? I can understand it being thinner, it could have been polished.
 
I always measure both thickness and diameter. I started this after getting 29mm shims from the box marked 29.5mm at my local dealer.
 
Yes I measure each one and have found many that were different than marked. Also, when you install shim out them into the bucket with the number facing down..not to the cam side. This keeps the cam lobe from wearing numbers off the shims.
 
jdion81 said:
Well, that was weird. But I think I figured it out. I decided to try another valve with the 2.0 shim, found the suggested shim of 2.6. Installed the 2.6 and rechecked and it was good. I decided to then check the 2.35x shim with calipers and it measured to 2.5. What the heck? I kept on going and was able to shuffle shims and get 4 valves within spec. I need to trade out some shims and finish it up.

Has anyone ever had a shim not measure the same as it was marked, I mean how would it be thicker than it was marked? I can understand it being thinner, it could have been polished.
Click to expand...

As others have stated I've found shims inaccurately marked too. Also, I've had feeler gauge readings that didn't add up after changing shims. Too much oil can be trapped under the shim giving a false reading so rotating the crank lets the cam lobe squeeze out excess oil, then an accurate measurement can be taken. Maybe stating the obvious here but didn't see this mentioned so just thought I'd add it.
 
I have been making sure to turn the engine a couple of times to make sure that the valve is opened a couple of times and seat the shim. My problem in measuring the shims is that my calipers will only go to tenths of mm.
 
jdion81 said:
I have been making sure to turn the engine a couple of times to make sure that the valve is opened a couple of times and seat the shim. My problem in measuring the shims is that my calipers will only go to tenths of mm.
Click to expand...
To accurately measure the shims, you need to use a quality micrometer. Vernier calipers are not the best choice for the job. Hope that helps.
 
Ghostgs1 said:
Be sure you are using the Suzuki manual procedure. Type of feelers matters little. If a 2 mm shim still has zero clearance, you may need to replace seats, replace head or try trimming valve stems a bit. Know where you are before doing any of these things. Let me know if I can help.
Click to expand...

Ray, I finally figured it out. I sent you a PM with a list of shims that I would like to swap with you.
 
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