B
Bladerunner
Guest
Anyone know of someplace respectable and qualified to re-spoke a set of wheels for my GS? Thanks.....
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Have you considered doing it yourself? It really isn't that difficult.
Huh....Done a couple of them, never seemed that difficult to me.
Kind of fun, really...
Rims seem particularly expensive.
How's it done?
How's it done?
But for real, can you sum up the FAQs for us please. I'm just curious how it's done.
Bill
How's it done?
Kinda like puttin' new strings in a piano? Or is it easier than that?Huh....Done a couple of them, never seemed that difficult to me.
Kind of fun, really...
But for real, can you sum up the FAQs for us please. I'm just curious how it's done.
Bill
I'm having some done for my '73 Commando at Wheel Works in Garden Grove California. I'm going to take off the Morris Mags that have been on it for more than 30 years, and put on stock hubs with alloy rims and stainless spokes.
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wheel Works[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]12787 Nutwood Ave[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Garden Grove, CA 92840[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]714.530.6681[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]714.537.2317 fax[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Wheel Works[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]12787 Nutwood Ave[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Garden Grove, CA 92840[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]714.530.6681[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]714.537.2317 fax[/FONT]
They say they have spoke kits for Suzuki GSes...and they have a lacing video...(although it appears to be VHS
)Short version? OK.Kinda like puttin' new strings in a piano? Or is it easier than that?
But for real, can you sum up the FAQs for us please. I'm just curious how it's done.
Bill
If you're just replacing stock parts, (because the spokes are rusty or you want SS or the rim is damaged), it's just a matter of removing the old and replacing with new in the same pattern. (These days you can do pictures...back when, I made drawings of the pattern)
Once you have it loosely assembled, evenly take up the slack in the spokes.
Now for the fun part. You need to tighten them evenly while maintaining your runout, (both vertical and horizontal), and your offset. A dial indicator is very handy, (if not essential)
It is really not much different than doing an annual spoke tune, except they start out really loose
Obviously, if your changing to a different size rim or a different hub, you need to a little up front work to get the right spokes and pattern.
I did bicycle wheels when I was a kid...motorcycles are just bigger.
Bill...I'm sure if you googled it, you would find plenty of instructional pages and information.
Easy job, even if it's your first time, though it can be daunting. There's no offset to worry about (same both sides) and that helps (on old Brit stuff I still find that a pain). I'm an amateur but still get a better job than I would if I took it to a wheelwright (unmeasurable run-out whereas they'll be happy with a few thou - just takes me longer).
Take a photo of the wheel before you strip it and just do a 'paint-by-numbers' to put the spokes back in. Don't be tempted to force or bend the spokes to get them in - you only need to do that on some old Brit stuff (spot a theme here? - wonder why BSA / Norton etc went bust).
Tighten your spokes very slowly to start off with and use either your forks or swinging arm as a jig if you haven't got a proper one - cable ties make great pointers if you haven't got a dial gauge. If the thing goes off centre once you start tightening spokes, start again - you won't pull it back by over-tightening elsewhere. Take your time and get a big grin when you're done.
Take a photo of the wheel before you strip it and just do a 'paint-by-numbers' to put the spokes back in. Don't be tempted to force or bend the spokes to get them in - you only need to do that on some old Brit stuff (spot a theme here? - wonder why BSA / Norton etc went bust).
Tighten your spokes very slowly to start off with and use either your forks or swinging arm as a jig if you haven't got a proper one - cable ties make great pointers if you haven't got a dial gauge. If the thing goes off centre once you start tightening spokes, start again - you won't pull it back by over-tightening elsewhere. Take your time and get a big grin when you're done.
I respoked the wheels on my Yamaha. I had cross 2 on the rear and did cross 3 instead, for a stronger wheel. There are specific wrenchs for motorcycle nipples, I found a number 10 bicycle spoke wrench to be about the same.
When you lace the wheels you move in groups of 4. It's important to start at the valve hole and take care to start the 3rd and 4th (final) series in a way that allows a gap where the air valve is. If you look at a spoked wheel you'll notice a gap in the spokes where the valve is. This allows you to get an airchuck in to fill the tire.
Do one wheel at a time so you will have an example of the pattern. the best pattern is inside pulling asymetrical layout. This means the left is opposite of the right and the inside spokes are pulling the wheel while the outside is pushing.
Spoked wheels actually suspend the bike. The top spokes carry the weight. The spokes are under tension so when weight is applied the top spokes get tighter and the bottom loosen. This helps to dampen the ride and contribute to comfort, although flex in the corners is a problem.
Since spoked wheels function on a right angle theory of load at any given time 2 spokes share the peak load at right angles to the hub. The steeper the angle the stronger the wheel, cross 3 being the highest practical limit on motorcycles. Cross 3 means a spoke crosses 3 other spokes on it's way from the hub to the rim. Some wheels are interlaced but not commonly.
I prestress the spokes as I am building the wheel so as to bend the spoke in the direction of the hub. This improves break in. Spokes should be restressed after a few miles and checked periodically. A loose spoke indicates a number of problems including a bad nipple, damaged rim, out of tension wheel, or pulled hole on the rim. If just one spoke is loose the rim is compromised and does not have the preload tension required.
Front wheels are different in that they have little torque applied, only braking force. The rear does double duty for braking and torque. It's important to check the spoke tension. The most important thing is that it's even. plucking the spokes should give an equal sound all around. The actual tightness can be measured with a tensionometer ( I have one of these goodies) and readings vary greatly based on length, spoke diameter, cross number, and rim material.
While it is certainly possible for a novice to rebuild wheels, I would have the wheel inspected by a reputable shop and have the tension checked and the wheel inspected. A wheel failure due to faulty work would be catastrophic.
If anyone in the Philly area needs a wheel trued or rebuild contact me and I can help them.
When you lace the wheels you move in groups of 4. It's important to start at the valve hole and take care to start the 3rd and 4th (final) series in a way that allows a gap where the air valve is. If you look at a spoked wheel you'll notice a gap in the spokes where the valve is. This allows you to get an airchuck in to fill the tire.
Do one wheel at a time so you will have an example of the pattern. the best pattern is inside pulling asymetrical layout. This means the left is opposite of the right and the inside spokes are pulling the wheel while the outside is pushing.
Spoked wheels actually suspend the bike. The top spokes carry the weight. The spokes are under tension so when weight is applied the top spokes get tighter and the bottom loosen. This helps to dampen the ride and contribute to comfort, although flex in the corners is a problem.
Since spoked wheels function on a right angle theory of load at any given time 2 spokes share the peak load at right angles to the hub. The steeper the angle the stronger the wheel, cross 3 being the highest practical limit on motorcycles. Cross 3 means a spoke crosses 3 other spokes on it's way from the hub to the rim. Some wheels are interlaced but not commonly.
I prestress the spokes as I am building the wheel so as to bend the spoke in the direction of the hub. This improves break in. Spokes should be restressed after a few miles and checked periodically. A loose spoke indicates a number of problems including a bad nipple, damaged rim, out of tension wheel, or pulled hole on the rim. If just one spoke is loose the rim is compromised and does not have the preload tension required.
Front wheels are different in that they have little torque applied, only braking force. The rear does double duty for braking and torque. It's important to check the spoke tension. The most important thing is that it's even. plucking the spokes should give an equal sound all around. The actual tightness can be measured with a tensionometer ( I have one of these goodies) and readings vary greatly based on length, spoke diameter, cross number, and rim material.
While it is certainly possible for a novice to rebuild wheels, I would have the wheel inspected by a reputable shop and have the tension checked and the wheel inspected. A wheel failure due to faulty work would be catastrophic.
If anyone in the Philly area needs a wheel trued or rebuild contact me and I can help them.
R
Ranger
Guest
Its pretty easy man, go to a bike shop and watch someone true a wheel and you'll get the idea.
This is the one thing I have hundreds of hours of experience with along with suspension.
You'll need to check the radial runout after 100 miles or so. Where are you at anyways?
This is the one thing I have hundreds of hours of experience with along with suspension.
You'll need to check the radial runout after 100 miles or so. Where are you at anyways?
R
Ranger
Guest
Almost true. If he was closer I would offer to do it and create a build up for it.
Motorcycle wheels you start when the inner spokes measuring the runout to within .30 in, either direction measuring with a dial gauge indicator. Then you move to the outside and counter the lateral runout and adjust both accordingly.
Bike wheels, depends a lot of the wheel type and spoke type/ count.
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H
Hammered
Guest
Lacing a wheel is easy. Ok maybe easy is too blanket of a term. Its not difficult by any means. The hardest part is not letting your eye confuse you with the pattern. And trueing a wheel isnt all that hard either, if you have a spare swingarm or set of forks youre not using.
The first thing to do is repeat the pattern your wheel originally had (easiest to follow and order spokes for) once all the spokes are in place, finger tighten all the nipples so that the spoke just does start to flush with the top of the nipple. Once you have all the spokes even, then and only then are you ready to start trueing the wheel.
Things you will need: Patience, small open end wrench, new spokes and nipples, time, spare swing arm or other means for trueing oh and did I mention patience?
Things you dont need:special spoke wrench, tons of money for mechanic, space, experience.
Once you get the spokes and wheel close, place the wheel on an axle or a decent substitute. Anything that fits in the bearing hole and allows to wheel to roll freely. Place the wheel on the swingarm or other stand and mark the first nipple as a starting point. Start tightening each nipple 1/2 to 1 full turn all the way around one full rotation of the wheel. Check to see if the heel free rolls to the "heavy" side of the wheel. If it does, and it will a few times, adjust (tighten) nipple opposite of the bottom side by 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the nipple until balanced. It takes time and patience. If you find youre all muttered up, simply stop, loosen the spokes back the starting position of flush with the nipple's top and start over. This is one of the few skills that is 100% about feel. There is no real shortcut by saying torque it to this or that. Trueing is more and art. It helps to take a couple clear pictures of how the pattern was so you can look at it while youre relacing the new spokes. And by recreating the OE pattern, you wont need to guess at the spoke length. Hope that helps and that you decide to give it try.
The first thing to do is repeat the pattern your wheel originally had (easiest to follow and order spokes for) once all the spokes are in place, finger tighten all the nipples so that the spoke just does start to flush with the top of the nipple. Once you have all the spokes even, then and only then are you ready to start trueing the wheel.
Things you will need: Patience, small open end wrench, new spokes and nipples, time, spare swing arm or other means for trueing oh and did I mention patience?
Things you dont need:special spoke wrench, tons of money for mechanic, space, experience.
Once you get the spokes and wheel close, place the wheel on an axle or a decent substitute. Anything that fits in the bearing hole and allows to wheel to roll freely. Place the wheel on the swingarm or other stand and mark the first nipple as a starting point. Start tightening each nipple 1/2 to 1 full turn all the way around one full rotation of the wheel. Check to see if the heel free rolls to the "heavy" side of the wheel. If it does, and it will a few times, adjust (tighten) nipple opposite of the bottom side by 1/4 to 1/2 turns of the nipple until balanced. It takes time and patience. If you find youre all muttered up, simply stop, loosen the spokes back the starting position of flush with the nipple's top and start over. This is one of the few skills that is 100% about feel. There is no real shortcut by saying torque it to this or that. Trueing is more and art. It helps to take a couple clear pictures of how the pattern was so you can look at it while youre relacing the new spokes. And by recreating the OE pattern, you wont need to guess at the spoke length. Hope that helps and that you decide to give it try.
R
Ranger
Guest
I'll build a downhill mountain bike wheel this week before my lady gets into town and make a video as well as pictures time permitting. Then I'll send them to you, sound good?
Worst case go to a bike shop, most around the country charge about $45 an hour labor for building a wheel and are capable of building a motorcycle wheel. Either way you'll be under $100 given that a truing stand isn't cheap. Park Tools makes the best ones, if you wanna send the stuff to me I can even build it for around $30 bucks each depending how many spokes you plan on running and when you need it back by.
Worst case go to a bike shop, most around the country charge about $45 an hour labor for building a wheel and are capable of building a motorcycle wheel. Either way you'll be under $100 given that a truing stand isn't cheap. Park Tools makes the best ones, if you wanna send the stuff to me I can even build it for around $30 bucks each depending how many spokes you plan on running and when you need it back by.
G
Gumbo76
Guest
Lacing Wheels
Lacing Wheels
Check out this Video Podcast on iTunes. It's free. These are a few guys who get together and wrench on bikes. I think you'll find the videos pretty neat. There is one regarding lacing up wheels. At least truing them. They show a couple of good techniques.
Enjoy!
http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-9-new-spokes-on-an-old-wheel/
-Gumbo
Lacing Wheels
Check out this Video Podcast on iTunes. It's free. These are a few guys who get together and wrench on bikes. I think you'll find the videos pretty neat. There is one regarding lacing up wheels. At least truing them. They show a couple of good techniques.
Enjoy!
http://www.garagenight.tv/ep-9-new-spokes-on-an-old-wheel/
-Gumbo
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S
SDBuckeye
Guest
R
Road_Clam
Guest
I've never laced street wheels, but have done severall dirt wheels. It's relatively easy once youy know a few tricks ! You don't need a truing stand, all's you need to do is insert the wheels axle, and clamp the axle in a vice horizontal. You will need a magnetic dial indicator to pull the wheel to within a tighter "street" spec. I typically use a pencil to get the wheel runout close, then swap to a dial indicator. Google "how to lace a motorcycle wheel" and you will archive a year's worth of reading. Make sure you measure the offset of your OLD wheel first, and write those dimensions down, so you can tweak the newly spoked wheel and get the dimension close. Last tip, if you are batting rusted siezed nipples, just use a cutoff wheel and just cut them. You can spend weeks trying to unsieze corrodded nipples sometimes it just ain't worth it !
Here's a helpfull Youtube vid so you can see how it's done :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CUuugCn4eY
Here's a helpfull Youtube vid so you can see how it's done :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-CUuugCn4eY
