Reading the oil amount

[vivisected]

To read how much oil is in a GS450 the bike should be on the center stand and the dipstick should be pulled out, wiped off, then replaced *WITHOUT* screwing it into the case, then pulled back out and read right?

Also, would anything bad happen if you put about an extra .75 liters of oil in the engine, road it around for about 2 miles, then noticed you put way too much in? (i accidentally filled it while it was on the side stand and not the center stand!)
To remedy this I planned to loosen the drain plug just a little and take out about a liter the add back as much as i need until it read correctly, I wouldnt need to replace the drain plugs washer (the little metal crush gasket, i just put a new one on yesterday) just because i did that, would I?

 

[Guest]

Yep, you got it right, just sit the dipstick back in to read it, don't screw.

I don't believe that much extra oil will be too bad, but yes best to drain the excess, and not replacing the crush washer should be ok, but probably best to do it if you can (they're cheap). The idea of the crush washer is exactly that, to crush... so a new one is always better if you can do it.

 

[vivisected]

hmm... i guess ill do a magic act and try to swap an old plug in there so i can get another crush washer on there really fast, presto chango!!! Hopefully i can get it in there as fast as pete replies to a thread

 

[tkent02]

You can also drop a small hose down the filler hole and syphon some out.

 

[hampshirehog]

I'm a tightwad - can't remember the last time I used a new crushwasher on the sump (over 30 years ago for sure) and my bikes have never leaked a drop from there.

 

[chuck hahn]

What year is this bike? I wanna read the servicemanual. Seemsto me that every machine that has a dipstick oil reading mark,including cars, the dipstick is fully inserted. Lawn mowers, snow blowers, etc you screw the dipstick in and then read it. What good does it do to read the level if the dipstick isnt fully seated as like in the normal operating postion...which in this case would be screwed in??? Just wondering the logic saying do not screw it in.

 

[Guest]

hmm... i guess ill do a magic act and try to swap an old plug in there so i can get another crush washer on there really fast, presto chango!!! Hopefully i can get it in there as fast as pete replies to a thread

Haha I wonder how much oil you can drain in 3 minutes?

And Chuck, that's what the deal is apparently with these babies.

I just checked the Clymer which I have on the laptop here, and it's very much ambiguous. I'm wondering if I found that from the Haynes maybe? I'll have to check that and my repro factory manual next time I'm in the garage to settle your (and now my) curiousity...

 

[chuck hahn]

Yes...I find the DONT screw it in theory rather suspicious myself..just sayin.

 

[Guest]

Ok, haven't gotten into the garage but I downloaded BassCliff's copy of the Haynes in the meantime... word for word from the top of page 12:

Unscrew the filler plug which is situated mid-way along the upper surface of the right-hand crankcase cover. It will be noted that the plug incorporates a dipstick which should be wiped off using a clean, lint-free rag. Place the plug back in position, but do not screw it home; allow it to rest in position on the edge of the orifice. Remove the plug and note the level of the oil on the dipstick, which should be between the two level marks.

I'll still have to take a peek at the factory repro one when I'm in there next...

 

[Agemax]

cant beat a dipstick resting on the edge of your orifice haha

 

[Guest]

Hahahahahahahahahaa

I ain't sayin' nuttin'...

 

[Nessism]

Pete is right, the dip stick is NOT screwed in.

Also, check engine oil with a cold engine, after running the engine for just a few minutes. Shut down engine and wait for 1 minute and then check the oil level.

The above procedure comes from the factory Suzuki service manual.

 

[Guest]

Cheers Ed, I was gonna check the factory repro one later on as I wouldn't have been surprised to find it was another Haynes screw up and that I'd been checking my oil wrong all these years

Good to hear it isn't so!

Good tip from the factory manual there too, I've only ever just checked it cold, not after having it running for a few minutes.

 

[Hornswaggle]

Thanks for the info on that Pete, I had always screwed it in to get the reading. I'm due for an oil change anyway but it sounds like I've had it below fill line by the thickness of the dipstick threads.

 

[chuck hahn]

If thats what the FACTORY says then i would go with it..I have found incorrectinfo in both Clymer and Haynes manuals when compared to factory car manuals. Always best to check the original manufacturers info if possible.

 

[Guest]

That's why I wanted to double check Chuck, the Haynes has led me astray twice, the Clymer hasn't led me astray yet but has been ambiguous on a few occassions.

Just checked in my repro manual, and what Ed said is just about word for word in there too, although the reason they're talking about running the motor for a few minutes is actually straight after an oil change, rather than a routine check of the oil level between changes.

Hornswaggle: How long did it take you to race out and check your oil level after reading that?

 

[Hornswaggle]

Hornswaggle: How long did it take you to race out and check your oil level after reading that? [/QUOTE]


As soon as I walked in the garage when I got home

 

[Guest]

Haha nice work Kevin, figured you'd be quick at it

 

[1_v8_merc]

Last oil Change I did, I pulled out over 7 quarts of oil.
I had to use two oil catchers, because the First one started to overflow.

God only knows how much of that was Gasoline....
(actually.... I bet the PO knows...because he's the one that did it!)

 

[Counter]

It makes sense not to screw the dipstick in. The motion of the oil around the dipstick while it is turning will make it harder to get a good readespecially since you will have to unscrew it to get it out.