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Rear Master Cylinder - GS1000 Anyone used anything more modern?

salty_monk

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If so lets have the details.... I'm a stickler for function not originality. The GS parts are getting a bit long in the tooth now - hard to find them without rust.

Also if anyone has used a different caliper on the rear I'd like to know about it too...
 
Ah...you implied the wrong thing here...."don't care to keep it original".....lol. I'm not judging at all, but this forum caters mostly to the "original" crowd.

My thread about installing USD forks on my 1000G got only a few replies.....not original equipment....but luckily they were good ones.
I'm looking to do the same thing since my front end will be newer....you and I had this conversation long ago{lol} when I bought your upgrade kit...I'd still like a matching rear rotor, and the like, too.
GSX-R tidbits work with some GS stuff {and vise-versa}...as I recall, a GSX-R rear wheel will take a GS drive hub.

While this is a great site for restorations...there's others for Suzuki GS mods that are more apt to help....check your PMs bud.
 
Dan,

You want me to bring your lathe back so you can bore your old master out and press in a stainless sleeve? Should be doable once you figure out how to hold it.
 
If so lets have the details.... I'm a stickler for function not originality. The GS parts are getting a bit long in the tooth now - hard to find them without rust.

Also if anyone has used a different caliper on the rear I'd like to know about it too...
I haven't looked into it, but I did use an '04 R6 rear master on my '84 FJ1100. it was a direct bolt on. All I had to do was swap the the yoke end. Check this eBay ad. It is a Chinese made rear master, but says it fits oddles of Suzuki's from the B12 to the GS500 and has the basic measurements you can use to compare with to GS1000 master and see if a real Suzuki master from these bikes will work out. The only issue I see is findting the proper mount hole distance.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rear-Master...d=162495405986&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
s-l500.jpg
 
Dan,

You want me to bring your lathe back so you can bore your old master out and press in a stainless sleeve? Should be doable once you figure out how to hold it.

That would be the proper way Ed but I'd still need a piston cup at a minimum ($30 inc shipping plus the stainless stock) & I am short of time as ever... (Don't get enough time riding the GS as it is).

None of the ones I've seen are a direct bolt-on so far. The Vstrom one looks like it stands a decent chance of working (and sell for about $15-$20) if I can make a simple bracket to space it correctly. Most now seem to have that 45mm mounting bolt spacing as a standard.
 
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Sorry Dan, not much to offer here but I'm curious on this question as well.
 
GSX-R tidbits work with some GS stuff {and vise-versa}...as I recall, a GSX-R rear wheel will take a GS drive hub.

Not sure what model. but the early GSXR and GS1000 drive hubs are completely different. GSXR has 5 rubbers and GS has six for a start

compare.jpg
 
The more modern GS500 has the 5 that works with the GSXR wheel. Some of the GSXR wheels do use 6. :)

Rob - I think I'm going to get a V-strom one & try it with a stock caliper & will report back..
 
Dan,
-either consider the ebay one above or, ask Brandonbeezy here {or, elsewhere} since he swapped the rear wheel and rear caliper {I think} on his G model. If not then the info I gave you should get the question{s} answered if no one here can.
 
If you want encouragement and a pat on the back why don't you start a "build" thread to describe the mods you are making to your bike? Take some proper photos and load them up on a good photo hosting site and then link them here so people can see photos in high resolution without having to click some tiny attachment link. If you put out some effort for the community the folks here are very generous with their praise and you will get the encouragement you desire.

Wow...I don't know how that post of yours helps Dan's question in any way?...except to try to attack me! It does, however, fully support my earlier comment about the "stock GS police"....lol....Thanks, you are the man Ed...you rock...your bikes will always be better than mine and other pats on the back and assorted praises that you probably didn't need...just like I don't. ;)
 
Vstrom rear cylinders seem to be nothing more than used {$10-$46 plus s/h} or rebuild kits...on the bay.
I think this is why so many folks seem to use GSX-r stuff...they were so plentiful and there's still such a following for them.
Problem is those crazy folks who change brakes out for something newer/different/better....once they start, they want more....lol.
 
I have bought a 2500 mile 1.5 year old full system off a Ninja 300 for 30 bucks...
I will see if I can make it work (and it's dual piston so will probably work with the stock caliper too if I choose that route). Was worried that the Vstrom one might not be big enough bore as it's only single piston. I will report back..
 
LOL Bob. You were the one whining about how nobody went to your thread. And when I did there were no photos worth mentioning. If you want attention towards your thread you gotta provide something entertaining for people to see.

Lmao.....IF you even looked at my post...which I highly question, you would've seen that I "asked a QUESTION how to fit them on"...what pics did you expect to see ED, before I did it....OMG, really?! I wanted answers to my question like anyone else here does...but certain folks are set purists and flame others who wish to vary from that course being all high and mighty and jumping in with left field accusations saying others want attention...your the one wanting attention and it shows.
Oh, but don't worry, I did ask for added pics and description from my ebay fork assembly auction before I bid on it....that way if it went bad I didn't have to come here to WHINE about it being bad later like someone with their carbs did.....and I didn't bash you there...............Pass the popcorn and the medical maryjane...Sheesh....

{well, here's the entertainment folks...}
 
lulz I think saltymonk has a pretty good idea about the workings of this forum......
 
So I said I'd report back...

I bought a Ninja 300 (EX300) master cylinder & caliper - full set from a 2015 low mileage bike for the grand sum of $31 to my door. Here's what I learnt.

1. The Ninja master cylinder is the same 14mm bore as the stocker. That's a decent start.
2. The pushrod is 8mm threaded so easy to extend with a coupling nut.
3. The mount bolts are 50mm centres. That's just close enough to allow the drilling & tapping of the existing Suzuki mount.
4. It took me about 15mins to adapt this to fit the Suzuki, grind a couple of mm off the mounts (I want a mm extra & used a penny washer for better stability as the mount is overdrilled with a weld nut mounted at the back), Drill out the mount holes to 8mm clear (rather than 8mm threaded) - 5 mins to drill & tap the frame - 8mm x1.25 & another 5 mins to touch up the frame.
5. The Ninja caliper is the same as the KLR caliper with the bleed nipple tapped at the front instead of the back as it's mounted in front of the axle not behind it on the Ninja. Neither are particularly good candidates for the Suzuki (although anything can be made to work I guess).

So what did I get for my $35 - A master cylinder that give a pedal that feels as good if not better than any GS I've ridden (I think I've ridden about 15 different GS's) and a very good source of spares for my KLR.

Caveat - you do have to grind a mm or two off the mount bosses to get it to line up with the pedal bracket. You do need to "relieve" a very small part of the cylinder where it hits the exiting mount (I also broke the corner on the mount in that area to save creating a stress line).

The master cylinder res hose from the KAWI works. You have to cut it done & use the SUZI clip if you want to use the stock res. The Kawi Res would work but would be very slightly angled.
I am not worried about the bends in the hose, my KLR has more acute bends than this.

The pictures should be self explanatory from here.

EX300 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2081 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2082 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2082 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2080 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2092 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2086 by salty_monk, on Flickr

IMG_2087 by salty_monk, on Flickr

and the finished piece....

IMG_2093 by salty_monk, on Flickr
 
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Well done! Can you use the caliper too?!
Maybe it's me, but there seems to be a tad of forward deflection in the push rod assembly up from the foot lever pivot point. That's one of the retrofit issues I'd worry about- new subject piece rod stroke, MC bore, frame point configuration/orientation, foot lever leverage throw point and brake line exit angle.

Looks like you nailed everything in one shot!
Btw- man that's a tiny reservoir that came with it.....
 
IMG_2086 by salty_monk, on Flickr


Video linky Image above.

Nope it's in line. You have to be careful to line it up obviously :)

That video is without it being connected therefore the extreme range of the stroke. In reality it doesn't move even half this much when connected & bled.
 
LOl..."Adult content you must be signed in to view this content"....What, you got some barely bikini clad girl demonstrating the brake? {dang- now I really want to see it}

{I was gonna ask how flickr was treating you for hosting....}
 
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