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Rear Wheel Removal - Final Drive Unit - Hub/Spine Greasing

  • Thread starter Thread starter growler
  • Start date Start date
Great pics!

That's significant wear, and that driven spline is not long for this world. Replace ASAP. The teeth are surface hardened, so they do not wear in a linear fashion. It also wears much faster since the drive spline can slam back and forth. Even though it only looks 30 or 40% worn, you've got less than 5% life left.

That said, it'll go a little longer so it would be reasonable to put it back together and ride for a week or two until you get a new driven spline. But don't delay.



Also, the M-77 paste will be fine.
 
Man, I had one of my bike friends look at it closely and feel all the teeth with a pick for wear. They said it's in great shape, grease (moly paste) it up and ride. Hmm. Maybe the spline isn't clean enough in my photos.
 
Man, I had one of my bike friends look at it closely and feel all the teeth with a pick for wear. They said it's in great shape, grease (moly paste) it up and ride. Hmm. Maybe the spline isn't clean enough in my photos.

Sorry to say you're bike friend is mistaken. That spline is very worn. Just like mine was.
 
That center picture looks bad, at least 50% gone and has been said thats a lot. I've found that you really can't judge how bad it is without pulling the spline off the wheel.

cg
 
ok. thanks for the input. guess i'll start looking for a replacement.
 
i'll remove the spine tomorrow and post more photos.

how do you remove it?
 
Trust your GS bike friends... believe me, we've seen lots of these things.

To remove the driven spline from the wheel, remove the bolts and retention plates (obviously...) then GENTLY pry it from the wheel a little at a time using two levers (big screwdrivers or similar), one on each side. Be careful of the aluminum wheel. It shouldn't really take much force to get it moving, but you have to make sure it comes out evenly.
 
ive been working on trying to get the clip screws off. I've managed to get one of six of them off in an hour. With a impact screwdriver. Jesus. Lol
 
ive been working on trying to get the clip screws off. I've managed to get one of six of them off in an hour. With a impact screwdriver.

Excuse me for asking, but did you pry the locking tabs away from the bolt heads? Next to each bolt head, there are two locking tabs that need to be moved away from the bolt heads before the bolt can turn.
 
Got them off shortly after posting that message. Yes, I had already bent the tabs back to allow room for the bolts to turn. I actually put down the impact screwdriver and just used a 10mm socket. The socket juuuust got enough room to grab the head of the bolts and boom they came out.

And, as everyone mentioned (I should have listened but wanted to see for myself) the spline is totally worn! I'll post the photos in a little bit when I get back to my computer. I'll start looking for a replacement.
 
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Awesome pics!

If anyone else in the future insists their splines are "just a little bit worn", we'll refer them to this thread.


As far as grease, I'd put just a thin film of any "normal" waterproof grease on the spline unit's "pegs" that go down into the bushings in the wheel, just to keep them from corroding and getting stuck. Same for the smooth part of the axle where it slides through the bearings and spacers.
 
Question. I was under the impression that the early (79,80) Black wheel spline was the one to get. Stay away from gold, silver ones. So are the later Intruder Volusia wheel spline the hot set up? There cheaper and easier to find... But are they just as good or better than the black ones?
 
Rodger that Growler. Thanks for the enlightenment. The used black spine I bought showed a little wear when I installed it. I'm thinking of just getting a new one and install when I change my tire... Kind of dumb putting a used one in there in the first place.
 
If I had found a black one first I would have purchased it too based on its price....the one I bought just happened to be there and the teeth looked new. Now to wait for its arrival - the hardest part! :)
 
Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

Awesome pics!

If anyone else in the future insists their splines are "just a little bit worn", we'll refer them to this thread.


As far as grease, I'd put just a thin film of any "normal" waterproof grease on the spline unit's "pegs" that go down into the bushings in the wheel, just to keep them from corroding and getting stuck. Same for the smooth part of the axle where it slides through the bearings and spacers.
 
Question. I was under the impression that the early (79,80) Black wheel spline was the one to get. Stay away from gold, silver ones. So are the later Intruder Volusia wheel spline the hot set up? There cheaper and easier to find... But are they just as good or better than the black ones?

The later silver splines are fine. They're just as good as the black splines.

I think for a while there very few of us had seen the later silver splines side by side with the gold splines and color balance in digital photography was iffy, so it was hard to tell the difference.


The History of the Spline

If you do a bit of diving in the parts fiches, you can find the following:

In the original '79 GS850 fiche, this part number was 64681-45100, and the "pegs" were listed separately. There was a recall of some sort related to these pegs or the retention hardware. I've got an NOS recall kit on the shelf with a replacement black spline and hardware, and instructions for replacing the old driven spline. Not sure what exactly happened or what the issue was.

In 1980, the spline became one unit and was black. At some point in late '81, this part became the infamous "soft" splines used in all shafties through 1984. This part was later superceded through a couple of other part numbers on the Intruders (700, 750, and 800, Volusia), 1990-93 VX800, and 1991-93 GSX1100G until 64680-45113 appeared in 1995. This is the part number still in use today on Suzuki's C50/S50 (805cc) cruisers.

From what I can tell, the spline was only a problem on the late '81-'84 GS shafties. On all others, it was never much of an issue, even on the powerful GSX1100G. (The 1400+cc Intruders and the M109 use a different driven spline unit.)

The early (1986-1994) Intruder splines used a different part number, but interchange with the GS version. Overall, I'd be most comfortable with the 1995 or later spline, but any Intruder, VX800, etc. spline in good shape should be fine. As with any used part, it's possible that someone abused or didn't maintain it and you can't always tell much from photos unless the spline is out of the wheel, as demonstrated above.

Basically, the spline unit in the early '80s was not hardened correctly or was incorrectly designed. Some feel it's supposed to be a sacrificial part, and they simply made it, uh, too sacrificial. Or it could have been a problem with the hardening process.

In any case, the fact remains that on any GS shaftie with a gold driven spline, the driven spline WILL fail, no exceptions. Update it pronto, or cultivate friends with pickups.
 
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