Relay Modification - Headlight issue

[fb9]

Hello all.

Started testing my the relay modifications I've done based on the guides.
For the most part, the stuff works really well; ie horn + diode to flasher, etc.
My problem is that the headlight is ALWAYS on.

My interpretation of the schematic is that:

Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 from 'hi beam' set switch
Pin 30 from direct 12v fused feed
Pin 87a to Low Beam on the bulb
Pin 87 to High beam on the bulb

Thus, by default the relay 'at rest' will have the low beam always on due to flowing power from 30 to 87a to the Low Beam.
If you hit the high beam switch, then the relay will kick over and power will flow from 30 to 87 to High beam.

My problem is, with the battery hooked up and then sliding the new fuse in place, power is flowing from 30 to 87a and the bulb is light at --ALL-- times. Ignitition switch doesn't have any effect.

The headlight ground is part of the starter cutoff relay as well, but that would only matter if the start button is pressed.


So obviosuly my implementation is wrong, but I can't figure out where my intrepration lead me astray when reading the schematic.

Thanks for any insight.

 

[posplayr]

what schematic?

 

[Macmatic]

The wrong one?

 

[biker_guy]

I'm trying to do this myself. I don't know what relay you have but if it's a 4 prong relay it's made to do one set of lights. So if you're wanting a relay on the high beam AND the low beams you're going to need 2 relays. I know that someone put a schematic up on here I just can't find it anymore. But in any case I found this one on the net.

This isn't the best one for what we're doing. It'll work and you can see what's going on But if I'm going to run one headlight with dual filament instead of more than one with signal filament I'd rather have a drawing that showed that. Also this drawing has ALL of the headlights wired up to run when the highs are turned on. The principal is still the same though because a dual filament is still wired up as two separate single filament bulbs.

 

[Steve]

To do the setup you have, you need another relay that feeds this one. The one you have installed now will switch from low beam to high beam, but the 87a terminal will be on all the time, unless you connect pin 30 to the switched side of another relay.

.

 

[posplayr]

Hello all.

Started testing my the relay modifications I've done based on the guides.
For the most part, the stuff works really well; ie horn + diode to flasher, etc.
My problem is that the headlight is ALWAYS on.

My interpretation of the schematic is that:

Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 from 'hi beam' set switch
Pin 30 from direct 12v fused feed
Pin 87a to Low Beam on the bulb
Pin 87 to High beam on the bulb

Thus, by default the relay 'at rest' will have the low beam always on due to flowing power from 30 to 87a to the Low Beam.
If you hit the high beam switch, then the relay will kick over and power will flow from 30 to 87 to High beam.

My problem is, with the battery hooked up and then sliding the new fuse in place, power is flowing from 30 to 87a and the bulb is light at --ALL-- times. Ignitition switch doesn't have any effect.

The headlight ground is part of the starter cutoff relay as well, but that would only matter if the start button is pressed.


So obviosuly my implementation is wrong, but I can't figure out where my intrepration lead me astray when reading the schematic.

Thanks for any insight.

Well from what you describe, you are getting what you wired ( U usually do). Either low beam or high beam but no off.

I don't know that headlamp relays are really necessary, but if you go that route, it only makes sense to have two relays and you have only got one.

You need to have two different relays as shown in the diagram from Biker_guy above if you want to control
Lights On/Off and Brights On/Off (two different switch outputs to control two different relays )

Good Luck
Pos

 

[fb9]

what schematic?

Relay_modification_for_bike_v23_by_Matchless.pdf
The "first" schematic --> " (Single relay headlight permanently on) "

Reading the schematic, I interpret:

[12v battery] -> [New 15a Fuse] -> [Relay 1, Terminal 30] -> [87a] -> [Low Beam]
[12v battery] -> [New 15a Fuse] -> [Relay 1, Terminal 30] -> [87]b -> [High Beam]

Relay #1 switches from 87a to 87 only if the high beam selector switch is toggled.
As a result, at all times the Low beam is on if that fuse is inserted.



I see what you are all saying and will figure out how to implement it on my individual setup.
I just don't see what I am confusing on 'schematic 1' that may have apparently worked so well for everyone else and caused this mix up.

 

[Steve]

I just don't see what I am confusing on 'schematic 1' that may have apparently worked so well for everyone else and caused this mix up.

Let me see if I can help clear it up for you.

Actually, looking at your interpretation, it appears that you have cleared it up for yourself:

Pin 85 to ground.
Pin 86 from 'hi beam' set switch
Pin 30 from direct 12v fused feed
Pin 87a to Low Beam on the bulb
Pin 87 to High beam on the bulb

Thus, by default the relay 'at rest' will have the low beam always on due to flowing power from 30 to 87a to the Low Beam.
If you hit the high beam switch, then the relay will kick over and power will flow from 30 to 87 to High beam.

My problem is, with the battery hooked up and then sliding the new fuse in place, power is flowing from 30 to 87a and the bulb is light at --ALL-- times. Ignitition switch doesn't have any effect.

Where do you have anything connected to the ignition switch? :-k

With 30 connected to a battery lead, power will either flow out 87 or 87a no matter what, unless the fuse blows. You need to move the wire from the battery to a switched terminal, and in my previous post, I suggested another relay.

Here is a diagram I saved from someone else that was trying this:

.

 

[fb9]

Done

Done

I implemented the second 'daisy chained' relay and works great.

Thanks..

 

[lucabond]

When I powered my head light from a relay I used the original headlight wire as the swtich wire for the relay and powered the headlight switch from the battery via the relay that way the high/ low beam works like normal. Good luck

 

[biker_guy]

Placement of the relay is something I wondered about. It would be easier to lucabond did, but it is going through pretty much all the factory wiring. Which from my understanding is the point of this mod. So is it the relay itself that will make up for the voltage drop meaning put it anywhere that is convenient? Or is it the fact that the relay is allowing us to bypass factory wiring without having to totaly rewire certain parts of the bike meaning as close the headlights as possible?

 

[lucabond]

Placement of the relay is something I wondered about. It would be easier to lucabond did, but it is going through pretty much all the factory wiring. Which from my understanding is the point of this mod. So is it the relay itself that will make up for the voltage drop meaning put it anywhere that is convenient? Or is it the fact that the relay is allowing us to bypass factory wiring without having to totaly rewire certain parts of the bike meaning as close the headlights as possible?

Just like the coil mod the headlight mod puts full battery voltage into the headlight. There is 1 wire that feeds the power to the headlight/turnsignal should be orange/white. Follow the wires from the switch to where it plugs into the harness. Cut the wire after the plug and add a length of wire to the wire from the plug it so it will reach the relay this will be your switched wire. Then run a wire from the relay to the wire you just cut and connect it to the wire running to the headlight switch. Now full battery voltage is going to the headlight threw the switch.
This way you are bypassing a lot of old harness and connectors and taking a lot of draw off the harness leaving more power for everything else. Granted there are still a few connectors and the headlight switch itself that could reduce the voltage but i think you will notice a big improvement in the brightness of your headlight I did. Good Luck