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relearning drywall finishing

C

Cipher

Forum Sage
Got work done and guy said it would only be about 1000 bucks to do the finishing of my drywall.
Im sure thats the going rate but im cheap and have one a good job on small rooms in the past so I though Id give it a go.

SO far I have 60 dollars invested and things are reay for a final skim coat.
I have found the mu I bought is a bit too viscous for this. Fine for setting tape in joints but a real devil to get a polished look.

What do you diy guys use. Or pros?

7 hours of work so far.

I wonder can you stil buy 70s style wallboard..........
 
Not sure what you mean by 70's style wall board. When I tape and texture I tend to use the premixed all purpose drywall mud for the whole process. If its too thick add a cup or two of water and spin with a paddle. Sounds like your trying to get a slick finish. We usually spray or slap brush texture which hides minor imperfections. Several thin coats are better than fewer thick coats and typically leave less sanding for you.
 
Here we have taping mud and finishing mud. Finishing mud is a bit harder and smoother, maybe what you are looking for. As someone that has flipped 3 to the studs remodels I don't want to EVER do drywall again. That said, thin coats, smooth with knife, don't sand until after the third coat except to knock off ridges.
 
Good advice so far, the thinner the better. The mistake most make is using way too much mud.
 
I have been frugal with the mud to reduce sanding. Learned that the hard ay years ago.
I had a bit of alarm as three small bubbles have formed totalling about three inches of tape out of 160.
Do i just slice these out with a knife and fill the divot?
 
We had a retired plaster guy come in to tape/finish the ceiling in our family room (had the ceiling removed and raised up to the roof). Took him about 8 hours in 3 visits. He didn't even BRING any sandpaper. ZERO and I mean ZERO mess, ZERO dust. Finish was flawless. Charged me $200 and I gave him and extra $100. It would have taken me weeks, would have been dust everywhere and no where near as well done. It's still flawless after 10 years. I can do an acceptable job, but hate to do it and can't do it without making a terrible mess.
 
Cipher said:
I have found the mud I bought is a bit too viscous for this. Fine for setting tape in joints but a real devil to get a polished look.
Click to expand...
Thin it out.

If doing a small area add water to your mud pan. Larger quantities thin the mud in the bucket. Try your best not to entrain air when mixing. Small quantities mix with your 4" knife in the pan and use the appropriate width knife to apply. Larger quantities use a paddle and leave sit for a few hours.

10-12" on the flats, 6' on the inside corners. Finish outside corners with an 8", 10" if absolutely necessary. Most knives crown from use. Put the crown up as it will tend to flatten as you press down to smooth things out. View from the end to see what I mean.

Check the flats with your knife held perpendicular to the wall. That will tell if the joint is high or low. If its high, sand first OR finish on either side of the joint with a 12" if that isn't possible.

This isn't something that can be easily taught via keyboard. YouTube videos??

Cipher said:
I have been frugal with the mud to reduce sanding. Learned that the hard ay years ago.
I had a bit of alarm as three small bubbles have formed totalling about three inches of tape out of 160.
Do i just slice these out with a knife and fill the divot?
Click to expand...
Hard to say without seeing it. Either lift the edge and apply more mud then wipe out the excess and let dry. Or, cut through to the outside and lift both sections and apply the mud. If you have to, cut the damage out, reapply mud and tape. Finish appropriately after its dry.

PICT3364.jpg


PICT3400.jpg
 
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Cipher said:
I have been frugal with the mud to reduce sanding. Learned that the hard ay years ago.
I had a bit of alarm as three small bubbles have formed totalling about three inches of tape out of 160.
Do i just slice these out with a knife and fill the divot?
Click to expand...

Yes, I'd slice them and skim coat over with 20 minute powdered mud so It doesnt shrink, dries quick, and move on. Are you texturing the area or keeping a slick finish? Most texture will hide minor imperfections. I tend to try to get my taping and finishing perfect then realize after texture you can't see most of that hard work anyway.
 
For the last few repairs I've had to do, I've used a "Lightweight Dustless" drywall compound. Very easy to work with, dries fast and strong, and sure enough, when you sand it the particles just drop down and there's no dust. Amazing stuff.

I think it's too expensive to use if you're doing a lot of drywalling, but it's the bee's knees for amateurs making repairs.
 
Jethro said:
I know nothing about drywall:rolleyes:
Click to expand...

Good move.

If anyone asks, I don't know NUTHIN' 'bout washers, dryers, refrigerators, lawn mowers, snow blowers, weed whackers, or Fords.
 
Funny, I tell my wife not to tell acquaintances that I do HVAC work. Family and close friends, no problem, I'll help if I can, otherwise no.

Regarding the topic at hand, I'm a hack. I can get a nice end result, but after much work.... my first go years ago was an abomination and it was in our bedroom at our first house. Laying in bed and looking at the ceiling was a constant ugly reminder- many bubbles in the paper tape joints. After that I used the adhesive backed tape. The last few jobs I went back to paper tape as it was what was in stock at the store. I paid close attention, kept it sufficently moist to stay put, and it worked well.
 
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