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replacing fuse box in 1980 GS550L

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
You'll need the plug from the harness because the glass fuse block has wires but the spade fuse block has a plug.
 
how about space issues

how about space issues

Ok, on needing the proper connector.

Can anybody give me the size of the GS spade fuse block?
 
Hi,

I know Mr. Steve did a good job upgrading his fuse box and other electrical bits. Send him an email or PM and see if he'll chime into this thread.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff
 
Well, I can't rightfully take credit for something I did not do. :oops:

When I got "Freebie", one of the previous owners had already replaced the fuse box. It was a 6-place panel with separate in and out for each fuse. It was very nicely replicated in the stock wiring, though. The wire for the main fuse went from the battery, through the fuse to the regulator/ignition switch junction. The wire that came back from the ignition switch was spliced a couple of times to go to three fuses, which were then connected to their normal circuits. The fifth fuse had power going to it, but the load side was never connected. Crudely done, but at least it was wired correctly.

IMG_0277.jpg


It was wired upside-down, the LIGHTS fuse was at the bottom and the AUX fuse at the top. If you look carefully in all the glare, you can see the wire powering the AUX fuse on the left, and a bare output terminal on the right.

Depending on whether you are wanting to add some extra circuits, there are other alternatives, but they will cost more money.

One option is Fuzeblocks. Six separate circuits, by moving the position of the fuse, you can choose whether that circuit is conected to always hot or switched hot supply. Not cheap at $80. :eek:

I thought I had another one bookmarked, but can't find it right now. :o

.
 
Nice that the fuses are protected, but all the connections are open to corrosion.

Short term, I'd be REALLY concerned with the exposed copper - that's going to corrode rapidly.

View attachment 9645
 
Nice that the fuses are protected, but all the connections are open to corrosion.

Short term, I'd be REALLY concerned with the exposed copper - that's going to corrode rapidly.

View attachment 9645

Once the spade terminal is in place just solder it to the fuseblock terminal, to stop it being pulled off and cover with some shrink sleeving.:)
 
Once the spade terminal is in place just solder it to the fuseblock terminal, to stop it being pulled off and cover with some shrink sleeving.:)

Good idea Andre. I will note that tip for when I am doing my new fusebox.

Still doing cam timing, slotted sprockets, etc. It all takes time.
 
i did something very similar to what is on Steve's bike but i used the OEM spade fuse box from an '83 model. I don't remember which one. I did not use a plug although i did shrink wrap the connectors.
 
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