• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Reverse twist drills

  • Thread starter Thread starter Guest
  • Start date Start date
G

Guest

Guest
Where can I find them?

I broke off an exhaust flange bolt, despite taking lots of care. I need to start the extraction process.

Thanks
 
Any good bolt supply should have them. You can order them from places like McMasters
 
home depot. (I work there so I had to suggest theirs too)

Be careful using them because if you take too much meat from the bolt, the bit can expand the bolt causing it to not come out and instead just break the bit in there. That's hardened steel and a PITA to get out. Ask me how I know... cost me $80 at the local machine shop to fix it. He just shook his head at me and I shrugged.
 
Auto Value and Napa carry them as well. They aren't cheap though....
 
Local Home Depot doesn't have them. I bought two at Menard's, of all places. Also three cobalt bits for the pilot holes. I'm thinking that I should have tried some of the Locktite bolt freezing & lubricating solution before attempting to remove this. I might buy some to use before beginning the extraction process.

At least it broke off flat, so I stand a chance of getting the hole centered.

Thanks for all the suggestions!
 
themess said:
Where can I find them?

I broke off an exhaust flange bolt, despite taking lots of care. I need to start the extraction process.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Any buddies in machine shop ? left hand bits are very common on both B&S and swiss style automatic lathes. Do not buy cheap drills!!!! or you will discover more fun.
 
I wish that I had buddies in a machine shop! There's darn little of than in Lafayette. This is primarily an outgrowth of a college town.
 
I would be inclined to use an easy-out INSTEAD of a reverse twist drill.

You drill the broken bolt to near max tolerance, then drop in the easy-out.

If buying this type of tool, then there are two warnings.....

First stay away from anything that has a spiral/thread. Use fluted ONLY, and NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy cheap ones.
 
argonsagas said:
I would be inclined to use an easy-out INSTEAD of a reverse twist drill.

You drill the broken bolt to near max tolerance, then drop in the easy-out.

If buying this type of tool, then there are two warnings.....

First stay away from anything that has a spiral/thread. Use fluted ONLY, and NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy cheap ones.
Click to expand...
Well, do the drilling with a left handed bit and you might not have the need for the EZ out which are VERY brittle and will likely break as you breathe .
 
EZ-outs are an oximoron. Steer clear...or make that run away.

Drilling out broken bolts is not difficult but it takes care. I've used left hand bits before and the broken bolt typically spins out at some point after you get a nice core going down though the center of the bolt. The key is to start with a small hole though the bolt and then work the bit sideways as necessary to get into the center of the bolt if your hole is not centered. Work up in drill sizes slowly and don't do anything stupid.
 
For anybody watching: EZ-outs are a damn dirty lie. NEVER EVER EVER use these. Whether they're cheap or expensive, they WILL break. :mad:


Argon, if you've actually gotten an EZ-out to work, it's the first time in recorded history. Congratulations.
 
Nessism said:
EZ-outs are an oximoron. Steer clear...or make that run away.

Drilling out broken bolts is not difficult but it takes care. I've used left hand bits before and the broken bolt typically spins out at some point after you get a nice core going down though the center of the bolt. The key is to start with a small hole though the bolt and then work the bit sideways as necessary to get into the center of the bolt if your hole is not centered. Work up in drill sizes slowly and don't do anything stupid.
Click to expand...
I've had great success with EZ-outs, only broken one off in many years of using them. That said, I do like the left handed bits better, the cost for a good set is somewhat prohibitive, but they are nice to use. I've also tapped a broken bolt out with a center punch, I've drilled the core out and crushed the remainder of the bolt, pulled it out with needle nose pliers, and I've ruined a few bolt holes trying to do any of the above when the bit decided to walk around on me when drilling in a difficult position.

EZ-outs are like taps. Don't force them. If you think they're at their tensile strength limit they probably are, about that time when you think "this thing's going to break off", it does, and you're screwed.:eek:
The majority of my broken bolts/studs are in aluminum rather than cast iron, seems most of my engines have been aluminum, or cast iron block with aluminum heads.............
 
DanTheMan said:
I've had great success with EZ-outs, only broken one off in many years of using them.

EZ-outs are like taps. Don't force them. If you think they're at their tensile strength limit they probably are, about that time when you think "this thing's going to break off", it does, and you're screwed.:eek:
Click to expand...


I accept what you say Dan, only most people don't possess a "fine touch", as evidenced by the broken bolt in the first place.
 
OSH has left handed drill bits. If you are trying to do one of the centre ones you'll struggle to find small ones long enough to get in around the frame.... you might have to use a over length conventional one to start it & get in with the left hander when you get up near the 8mm so you've got the length.

When I tried it the bolt didn't back out so I just kept going & put a Helicoil in it...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

jdub6092
Exhaust pipe header clamps
Replies
5
Views
212
jdub6092
jdub6092
W
Choke Plunger Replacement
Replies
4
Views
144
Wright 83 GS650
W
E
Help! Stripped Mixture Screw Hole
Replies
7
Views
171
EmmCee
E
crazyramen
Need Help IDing a 4 into 1
Replies
6
Views
188
crazyramen
crazyramen
ukjules
Starter motor needs a tap to work recently
Replies
18
Views
309
ukjules
ukjules
Back
Top