Rotor puller needed

[rustybronco]

I tried using a swing arm bolt with a heavy slide weight to remove the rotor on my 78 GS1000E. I tried putting in a 1/4 drive extension in the threaded portion of the crankshaft then tightening the swing arm bolt but only succeeded in slightly deforming the first thread of the crank. I can take care of the damaged thread, but I think it's time I tried the proper tool to remove the rotor from the crank.

Does anyone have a rotor puller I can rent/borrow for a day or so?

TIA Dale

 

[Nessism]

As I recall Dale the bolt threads into the rotor and you put some thing to block the crank threads, like a large ball bearing, and just turn in the bolt in until the rotor pops off. It's been a while but that's how I remember it. You don't slide hammer the rotor off, the bolt pops it off but you need to block off the threads in the crank some how.

 

[niclpnut]

I used this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=170811642750

on mine. Heated things up with a propane torch. Torque, hammer, torque, hammer...pop.

If you were local I would swing by

Your free to borrow it. I can slap it in a package and send it to you in the A.M.


Nic

 

[tkent02]

Hey, just like a swing arm bolt only shorter.

 

[TheCafeKid]

Hey, just like a swing arm bolt only shorter.

The swingarm bolt will work, but as you saw there's not enough thread before it pops the rotor off without sticking something in there.
Recently Steve and I used the swinger bolt on a motor he didn't care about messing the crank up on, and it did mess up the crank. So he went and bought a longer bolt (more threads) so he didn't have to use the "insert" to pull the rotor we were replacing with the other one we'd pulled.
That's probably your best bet.

 

[rustybronco]

As I recall Dale the bolt threads into the rotor and you put some thing to block the crank threads, like a large ball bearing, and just turn in the bolt in until the rotor pops off.

Ed, I inverted a 1/4" extension in the crank to give the swing arm bolt something to press against. Unfortunately it started to deform the end of the crank. I bet the ball bearing idea would have worked just fine If I had one that large.

I used this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=170811642750

Thanks for the offer nic, but the swing arm bolt looks like it would do the same thing. What I'm looking for is the tool that threads on the outside of the rotors hub and threads into the crank. Unless you use it in conjunction with a threaded bolt in the crank or a ball bearing at the end of it, that 'looks' like it might do damage to the end of the threads as well. Worse come to worst, I'll find the proper tool and buy it.

Now if only the bike didn't need the starter clutch...

 

[tkent02]

The proper tool works the same way.

 

[rustybronco]

Tom, Why does it show two wrenches being used on it in the shop manual (illustration 7-104)?

 

[tom203]

Ed, I inverted a 1/4" extension in the crank to give the swing arm bolt something to press against. Unfortunately it started to deform the end of the crank. I bet the ball bearing idea would have worked just fine If I had one that large.

Use a socket, not extension, so it bears more fully against crank end. Apply pressure, tap lightly on swing arm bolt (towards crank), more pressure, etc. and presto, rotor will fall off taper.

 

[tkent02]

Use a socket, not extension, so it bears more fully against crank end. Apply pressure, tap lightly on swing arm bolt (towards crank), more pressure, etc. and presto, rotor will fall off taper.

This is what I have done, the trick is to put something in the hole to take up space, but is of a size that won't get stuck after getting forced tightly into the hole. A small nut or something like that. Twist it in, tap it, twist and tap, and the rotor falls off.

The one on the picture looks like a different puller.

 

[rustybronco]

The rotor I have is threaded on the outside of the hub to accept some sort of two piece puller. What I think I'm going to do it find a tap, get a bolt from fastenall that I can cut the head off, slot it and thread it into the hole in the crank, that way I can be sure I won't muck up the threads anymore that I already have.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

I think he's looking for one of these:

http://www.z1enterprises.com/Flywheel-Puller-35mm-x-15mm-3-Deep-RH-External-2166.aspx

If you can use the internal threads, I've read a couple of posts where people have packed them with grease, instead of using a rigid spacer which could hurt the threads, and had success.

 

[rustybronco]

Thanks for the link mike!

I would have tried the grease method but the hole goes ALL the way through the crankshaft. You can stick a screwdriver through at least two crank shaft throws and see it pass from throw to throw.

 

[mike_of_bbg]

Yeah, that might kind of defeat the hydraulic pressure thing...

 

[tkent02]

That's funny, mine were only an inch or so deep.

 

[chuck hahn]

I posted a few links in the build thread.

 

[rustybronco]

Tom, this one doesn't. Plus the the bolt thread on the crank is 14MM(??) and the rotor is 16MM. Doesn't leave much of an edge to sit something on the side of it.

http://thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?p=1271337#post1271337

 

[rustybronco]

The bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.

 

[tom203]

The bolt size used to retain the rotor is a 12mm X 1.25 pitch. Let me think about this a minute... What else is 12mm x 1.25? Well that would be a 12mm spark plug! and I just happen to have a spare one at home that I can cut and thread into the hole.

Yeah, but will you be able to get it out after the deed is done?? How about a short 3/8 " hex head bolt to nest inside that 12 mm thread? unlikely to damage threads.

 

[bwringer]

Yeah, but will you be able to get it out after the deed is done?? How about a short 3/8 " hex head bolt to nest inside that 12 mm thread? unlikely to damage threads.

Yep, I use a smaller socket head (allen) bolt and let the head rest on the outside of the crank. In other words, it doesn't thread into the crank.

Crude diagram I created for my 850G -- I think the threads in the rotor are 16mm on the 1000, not the 14mm mentioned in the image, but the principle is the same:

The manual does mention using a slide hammer which does not work. At all. You can't believe a lot of what you read in the manuals.