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scraped good enough?

timebombprod

timebombprod

Forum Sage
straight razor worked great i must say, now i didnt sit and perfect it but i got the chunks of gasket off and all that sits on is blotches of old gasket residue basically. would it still be enough to cause a leak?

would putting rtv on the edge of the gasket a good reassurance to help prevent leaks or is it unnecessary if it isnt supposed to have it in the first place.

I PROMISE THESE MILLION QUESTIONS IVE BEEN ASKING WILL BE OVER SOON, EVERYTHING JUST HAS TO BE PUT TOGETHER AS FAR AS IT GOES, JUST HAD A LEAKY PAN TO REDO AND DOUBLE CHECKED THE VALVES AND BROUGHT UP AN ISSUE.

my confidence in this is not high if you cant tell by how much i worry about doing things wrong or not good enough. feel bad for the people who see my posts filling up spaces


 
Last edited:
Keep scraping............


You're nearly there. When you have clean, smooth metal you're good to go. Be careful not to gouge the mating surfaces. If you get any small nicks, use some fine wet and dry to smooth them out.
 
Yep, it's too tempting to just call it enough when you've spent ages getting it 98% clean.
That remaining 2% will cause a leak, believe me. It might not be a major leak, but an annoying one nonetheless.
 
Don't worry about asking questions. That's one of the reasons this forum still exists.

More scraping and no RTV
 
I hate to be blunt, but since you asked, ...

In the first picture, see that spot about the middle of the left side?
The area at the bend and almost to the next bolt hole?
Rather nice and shiny. When the rest of it looks like that, you'll be done.
Right now, the rest of it looks rather untouched.
 
If you're going to use anything the non setting type would be better for this than RTV but clean & dry is best... :)
 
I'll add another voice to the spend more time on it crowd. You'll get there with some patience. I like the fact you walked away from it for a bit; now go back at it with a fresh mind.
 
It's not the destination...

You're going to be one with that engine case before you're through.
 
I had the pleasure of removing the oil pan on my 650 twice, a few months ago. The pan that came on the bike had a knackered drain hole. Surprised that the plug stayed in. Bought a used pan and installed it. Some how I didn't notice that the ebay pan had a light crack and of course, eventually leaked. Bought an installed yet another ebay pan and good to go. Another vote for cleaning the mounting surface up very well. Also, be careful that the small o-ring that you can see in your last photo of the underside of the sump doesn't drop out. I changed mine out the second time with a new one for giggles. I had to use a tad of grease to reliably get it to stay in place. Good luck and you'll soon be there.
 
There is a huge sense of satisfaction when you have struggled with a job on the bike, whether it's time consuming and you want a short cut or you just don't know what on earth is wrong or how to fix it, then after some advice and quite often a break from repeating the same thing for hours you finally step back and say to yourself " I sorted that".
If the advice on he forum is 'clean' or 'torqued up not just squeaky tight' then it's the right advice. You will get to the point where the bike is running as long as you don't panic, do each step one at a time. Don't panic about how much fuel you have if the carbs and the tank are still not fitted to the bike. One step at a time.
 
Rob S. said:
It's not the destination...

You're going to be one with that engine case before you're through.
Click to expand...

That might not work out too bad, he could be next in line to star in a Progressive Insurance ad if the current guy (Motaur) decides to move on to another gig.
 
I have used a brass wire brush with my electric cordless drill gently to remove those stubborn bits that are hard to remove. It worked like a damn and did not leave any scratches or gouging as what some may think. I placed a rag in the engine area (as I had the engine out and mounted on a rack inverted) to prevent any crap from flying into the engine. It worked wel but once or twice I caught the rag with the brass brush on the drill ...
 
I have used brass bristle brushes, the more worn down the better, for many gasket removal projects and never had a leak afterward. If it's a gasket that uses sealant, that will fill any scratches, but I've never seen any scratches after using brass.

Mr.humbucker said:
I have used a brass wire brush with my electric cordless drill gently to remove those stubborn bits that are hard to remove. It worked like a damn and did not leave any scratches or gouging as what some may think. I placed a rag in the engine area (as I had the engine out and mounted on a rack inverted) to prevent any crap from flying into the engine. It worked wel but once or twice I caught the rag with the brass brush on the drill ...
Click to expand...
 
Caution When using brass or any wire wheels on drills/dremels. At the very least, WEAR EYE PROTECTION! And you might have to throw away any shirt you're wearing. Those little wires fly everywhere and embed themselves in your skin and clothes.
 
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