• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

scraped good enough?

timebombprod

timebombprod

Forum Sage
straight razor worked great i must say, now i didnt sit and perfect it but i got the chunks of gasket off and all that sits on is blotches of old gasket residue basically. would it still be enough to cause a leak?

would putting rtv on the edge of the gasket a good reassurance to help prevent leaks or is it unnecessary if it isnt supposed to have it in the first place.

I PROMISE THESE MILLION QUESTIONS IVE BEEN ASKING WILL BE OVER SOON, EVERYTHING JUST HAS TO BE PUT TOGETHER AS FAR AS IT GOES, JUST HAD A LEAKY PAN TO REDO AND DOUBLE CHECKED THE VALVES AND BROUGHT UP AN ISSUE.

my confidence in this is not high if you cant tell by how much i worry about doing things wrong or not good enough. feel bad for the people who see my posts filling up spaces


 
Last edited:
Keep scraping............


You're nearly there. When you have clean, smooth metal you're good to go. Be careful not to gouge the mating surfaces. If you get any small nicks, use some fine wet and dry to smooth them out.
 
Yep, it's too tempting to just call it enough when you've spent ages getting it 98% clean.
That remaining 2% will cause a leak, believe me. It might not be a major leak, but an annoying one nonetheless.
 
Don't worry about asking questions. That's one of the reasons this forum still exists.

More scraping and no RTV
 
I hate to be blunt, but since you asked, ...

In the first picture, see that spot about the middle of the left side?
The area at the bend and almost to the next bolt hole?
Rather nice and shiny. When the rest of it looks like that, you'll be done.
Right now, the rest of it looks rather untouched.
 
If you're going to use anything the non setting type would be better for this than RTV but clean & dry is best... :)
 
I'll add another voice to the spend more time on it crowd. You'll get there with some patience. I like the fact you walked away from it for a bit; now go back at it with a fresh mind.
 
It's not the destination...

You're going to be one with that engine case before you're through.
 
I had the pleasure of removing the oil pan on my 650 twice, a few months ago. The pan that came on the bike had a knackered drain hole. Surprised that the plug stayed in. Bought a used pan and installed it. Some how I didn't notice that the ebay pan had a light crack and of course, eventually leaked. Bought an installed yet another ebay pan and good to go. Another vote for cleaning the mounting surface up very well. Also, be careful that the small o-ring that you can see in your last photo of the underside of the sump doesn't drop out. I changed mine out the second time with a new one for giggles. I had to use a tad of grease to reliably get it to stay in place. Good luck and you'll soon be there.
 
There is a huge sense of satisfaction when you have struggled with a job on the bike, whether it's time consuming and you want a short cut or you just don't know what on earth is wrong or how to fix it, then after some advice and quite often a break from repeating the same thing for hours you finally step back and say to yourself " I sorted that".
If the advice on he forum is 'clean' or 'torqued up not just squeaky tight' then it's the right advice. You will get to the point where the bike is running as long as you don't panic, do each step one at a time. Don't panic about how much fuel you have if the carbs and the tank are still not fitted to the bike. One step at a time.
 
Rob S. said:
It's not the destination...

You're going to be one with that engine case before you're through.
Click to expand...

That might not work out too bad, he could be next in line to star in a Progressive Insurance ad if the current guy (Motaur) decides to move on to another gig.
 
I have used a brass wire brush with my electric cordless drill gently to remove those stubborn bits that are hard to remove. It worked like a damn and did not leave any scratches or gouging as what some may think. I placed a rag in the engine area (as I had the engine out and mounted on a rack inverted) to prevent any crap from flying into the engine. It worked wel but once or twice I caught the rag with the brass brush on the drill ...
 
I have used brass bristle brushes, the more worn down the better, for many gasket removal projects and never had a leak afterward. If it's a gasket that uses sealant, that will fill any scratches, but I've never seen any scratches after using brass.

Mr.humbucker said:
I have used a brass wire brush with my electric cordless drill gently to remove those stubborn bits that are hard to remove. It worked like a damn and did not leave any scratches or gouging as what some may think. I placed a rag in the engine area (as I had the engine out and mounted on a rack inverted) to prevent any crap from flying into the engine. It worked wel but once or twice I caught the rag with the brass brush on the drill ...
Click to expand...
 
Caution When using brass or any wire wheels on drills/dremels. At the very least, WEAR EYE PROTECTION! And you might have to throw away any shirt you're wearing. Those little wires fly everywhere and embed themselves in your skin and clothes.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

93Bandit
Off topic: Need 2 stroke help!
Replies
17
Views
171
rphillips
R
G
GS850G T back on the roads - time for thanks the GSR community
Replies
5
Views
103
Suzukian
S
martin_montreal
1978 GS750 Head, 4:1 exhaust, spoked wheel, some background & advice
Replies
6
Views
200
kochic
kochic
G
Thinking about a GS750 project
Replies
12
Views
208
Guest
G
timebombprod
crappy fix?
2
Replies
21
Views
910
limeex2
limeex2
Back
Top