sorry more electrical questions

[bikerzx7r1981]

Hi Just got a couple of electrical questions.

I have fitted a new set of indicators and a new flasher relay after the last one didnt work. the indicators work fine but are very slow, yet when i rev the bike they get faster and then remain the normal speed but eventually go slow.

not sure if this is linked.

I suspected that the bike wasnt charging very well.. when i put a meter across i get approx 12.94 yet when i turn the main beam on it drops down to 12.09 ... yet been told it should be 14.00

I have been told this could be the reg/rectier? any ideas?

only other question i have fitted a GS1100G engine into a gs1000g and its using the reg/rec from the 1000g ... should it be a 1100g one or does it not matter?

any hlp appreciated

 

[BassCliff]

Hi,

It's time for you to go through the Stator Papers. Don't forget to check out Mr. posplayr's very important update to the first phase.

Both bikes use the same basic regulator. The only difference may be the connector arrangement.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

 

[LarryA_Texas]

The rate of flash is dependent on the voltage and the draw through the relay. The change in flash rate is linked to your voltage change. A few things might help. First, check and clean thoroughly all of the connections throughout the entire turn signal system. Use something that really gets the corrosion off.

14 volts while running would be great but it's not always going to be there. You're OK as long as it's enough to charge the battery; you should be somewhere in the 13-14 range, you're probably OK. 12.94 is awfully close. But it also depends on where you're measuring the voltage. Every poor connection will rob a little bit of your voltage.

Find the stator papers in this forum for instructions and check out your stator to make sure it's putting out good voltage. You will measure the output of each leg at a constant RPM. If any one is shorted or weak it will affect the charge.

Voltage drop with the light on isn't unusual. It should drop as power is being used and that headlight is a big user of electricity.

I doubt the 1100 RR unit is any different than the 1000 RR so I wouldn't think you have any issue there.

Hi Just got a couple of electrical questions.

I have fitted a new set of indicators and a new flasher relay after the last one didnt work. the indicators work fine but are very slow, yet when i rev the bike they get faster and then remain the normal speed but eventually go slow.

not sure if this is linked.

I suspected that the bike wasnt charging very well.. when i put a meter across i get approx 12.94 yet when i turn the main beam on it drops down to 12.09 ... yet been told it should be 14.00

I have been told this could be the reg/rectier? any ideas?

only other question i have fitted a GS1100G engine into a gs1000g and its using the reg/rec from the 1000g ... should it be a 1100g one or does it not matter?

any hlp appreciated

 

[trippivot]

add more resistance like higher wattage bulbs to get the flasher to blink faster. a simple resistor inline on the ground side will do too.(1 per side L&R)

the BImetal strip inside the flasher needs resistance to snap on and off. that is why LEDs' do not work--- not enough resistnace

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

I managed to get hold of a cheap REG/REC, that looked smaller then the one on the bike, plugges it in and hey presto indicators work loads better and is now charging right !

go of love those magic little boxes !!!

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

i spoke to soon

i spoke to soon

I fitted a new reg / rec as the old one wasn't charging.

I measured the output on tick over and it's running at about 13.0 when I rev it quite hard it running to about 15.5 ..... is this to high? noraml reving about 3k revs is approx 14.2?

any help much appreciated?

 

[rustybronco]

15.5V might be normal for the R/R you have chosen, or it might be the result of bad connections. what R/R do you have on it now?

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

it's suppose to be from a 1000g ?

Not sure what make or anything, has a bolt hole through the middle and is smaller than the original one I had on.

Does this help

 

[rustybronco]

Yes and no. no R/R on a GS1000 has a bolt through the center that I know of.

any ID numbers on it, or a picture of it?

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

I have uploaded some photos

http://s740.photobucket.com/albums/xx42/kevlid1981/regulator/

 

[posplayr]

15.5V might be normal for the R/R you have chosen, or it might be the result of bad connections. what R/R do you have on it now?

More than likely that is a crappy old single leg SCR control. Most of the newer ones including Honda have SCRs on all three legs.

The single SCR's can overcharge when the output exceeds the amount lost on the single phase and the R/R has no more control it effect.

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

Sorry not very technical, what does single SCR mean?

I'm not sure if this helps, but the guy I bought it off also sent me something else in a seperate parcel that looks a bit like a regulator rectifier but only has 2 wires and a earth lead?

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

Should I just buy a new one?

 

[rustybronco]

Sorry not very technical, what does single SCR mean?

I'm not sure if this helps, but the guy I bought it off also sent me something else in a seperate parcel that looks a bit like a regulator rectifier but only has 2 wires and a earth lead?

Single "one".
SCR http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicon-controlled_rectifier

In the normal "off" state, the device restricts current to the leakage current. When the gate-to-cathode voltage exceeds a certain threshold, the device turns "on" and conducts current. The device will remain in the "on" state even after gate current is removed so long as current through the device remains above the holding current. Once current falls below the holding current for an appropriate period of time, the device will switch "off".

Pos suspects (as I, because of the size of the unit) the Reg/Rec you now have uses just one SCR and as such is only capable of shunting current back to the stator on one phase. the normal R/R used is capable of shunting all three phases.

<EDIT> the device could be just a rectifier and the second device you have with the two wires and earth is the regulator. just like the system used on the '78 GS1000's.

Should I just buy a new one?

Yes. you should buy a different one, but not necessarily a "new" one. check Matchless's thread for suitable replacements or contact member Duanage.

 

[bikerzx7r1981]

No probs, I have sourced a cheapish new one.... will try again.

thanks for your help guys