Starter button and igniter?

[Guest]

New to the Forum. I have a 1982 GS650G. Don't know how to post a picture yet.
Bike stalled, then the starter button wouldn't work.
Jump started her and went home.
No click on the solenoid.
Replaced the starter and on/off switch, and the igniter/solenoid.
Still no go.
Where to look next?

 

[rphillips]

I'd think the most prominent cause of starter button not working is the clutch safety switch. Oh yeah, welcome.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Like rphillips said, make sure you have the clutch lever pulled in. There is a starter defeat circuit inline, and can easily be taken out (if you want to. I keep mine intact for reasons). If that isn't your problem, get yourself a wiring diagram from BikeCliff's website (see my signature). A really nice color diagram there for you - Top section, right column. And start chasing 12v from the battery to the start button, then from the start button through the Green/Yellow wire to the starter solenoid. Don't know what you actually replaced. The igniter and solenoid are two different things with different functions.

Info about using Imgur (or any other pic hosting site) to host pictures is also in my signature. This is the best way to post pictures.

Go ahead and create a signature w/ your bike info in it, then you'll never have to remember to type that out when you make a post. Go to settings at the top right of the page. Then look on the left margin for Signature creation links.

Welcome to the forum.

 

[tom203]

The solenoid frame needs to be grounded for it to ?click? in ....there?s a separate wire for this

 

[LAB3]

Seems to me the FIRST thing to look at is the fuses, if you've already done that get a meter or test light and check to see if the keyswitch is operating properly.

 

[cowboyup3371]

And i'll add check to ensure the battery itself is good then test your charging system following the quick tests in Rich's signature block

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys. I will check the battery. The malfunction was very sudden. I replaced the solenoid (attached to the battery box) and will check its ground. Hard to figure the clutch handle would suddenly croak. Also replaced the start button assembly on the right handlebar. Fuses are all good. Solenoid wire is the yellow/green bastid, right?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

It’s time for you to look at the factory wiring diagram.

 

[Rob S.]

Jump started her...

Do you mean push or 'bump' started? I hear "jump" and I immediately think of jumper cables. (My starter is also dead, didn't get around to attempt push starting before stuff happened. I was thinking starter or solenoid, fuses or clutch switch didn't even occur to me. Thanks guys).

Welcome to the forum.

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Good point Rob. What do you mean by “jump started”?

 

[rphillips]

Just figured his "jump" meant roll it off & let the clutch out (yes "push" or "bump"), if jumper cables it would be too obvious the batt. was the problem. Fuses & clutch switches normally work fine till they suddenly croak....Just an idea, try the simple stuff first.

 

[cowboyup3371]

And if you have the old style fuses they can look good but be broken under the caps. Check them with a test light or multimeter to confirm it

 

[Redman]

Fuse that powers the starter button-solenoid, is the same fuse for the ignition . . . so, that is not your problem.
Same logic applys for the kill swtich since that kills the ignition and the starter button circuit.

Two typical problems with the starter solenoid not operating have both been mentioned here, and those are:
- the switch on the clutch lever
- the ground wire to the battery box / solenoid mounting bolt.

 

[Guest]

Okay. I took out the clutch switch, got a new battery, and replaced the starter button. Engine cranks perfectly. Fuel is in the carb bowls, and spark in the plugs. Am I looking at vacuum questions now?

 

[salty_monk]

Maybe dirty carbs if it hasn't run since you first posted in July... If you have flow at the petcock when cranking (suggests yes if the carb bowls are full) then you don't have an issue with vacuum.

 

[Guest]

Okay, fellas, and thanks for the various tips. I got the electrics working perfectly, and she turns over solid with a new battery. New starter button, and new solenoid, both actually old. If I turn the petcock on "res" and fill the bowls, she runs for five minutes, then won't start again. Vacuum problem? Petcock problem? Seems like she drains the bowls in that five minutes?

 

[Rich82GS750TZ]

if it's working properly, RES and ON pectock positions can't be used to fill empty carb bowls, as they both need vacuum applied in order to flow fuel. RES just has a lower draw point in the gas tank. If bowls are empty, you should put the petcock on PRI (prime) for 20-30 sec, then switch it back to RES or ON. That doesn't explain why your bowls are running dry though. Could be petcock malfunction. Carbs could need a good cleaning (see Ed Ness's BS (CV) carb rebuild tutorial on BikeCliff's website). Could be your gas tank cap vent isn't functioning, not allowing tank to draw in air needed to let the fuel flow through the petcock.

 

[rphillips]

Pet cock on PRI makes the fuel flow wide open, all the time, vac. or no vac. I'd put it on "PRI" & see if it starts, leave it on PRI. to see if it run OK in that position, then turn to "ON", If it runs OK on "PRI" then dies within a few minutes after going to "ON", you have a vac., petcock, or fuel level problem... Just my opinion.

 

[Guest]

Are there two hoses connected to the petcock?

Are the other ends of those hoses in the proper places?