stiff clutch below 4k rpm

[mordantmonkey]

when first leaving my house i find the clutch near impossible to upshift if below 4k rpm. but above 4k it shifts easily. downshifting is also easy. the problem seems to go away after i've been riding for a few minutes.
this is while riding in cold weather ~30-35F

is this normal, or are new clutch parts in my future?

 

[t3rmin]

Before panicking, change your oil. Make sure you use a plane-jane dino-juice type of oil without any weird additives. The thicker you go, the harder your shifts will be, especially when it's cold. A certain amount of hard shifting/clutch operation is very normal for these bikes, especially when they aren't 100% warmed up yet.

Also make sure your clutch cable is adjusted per factory specs.

Doesn't sound like you have anything to worry about, though. These are wet clutches, so they behave differently depending on the type and temperature of the oil.

 

[mordantmonkey]

already changed the oil, used plain 10-w40. and that's all that's been used AFAIK. This is my first motorcycle and i'm not familiar with wet clutches. good to know that it's normal. thanks.

 

[Guest]

What year and model? Seems you have clutch operation confused with a transmission. Your clutch is lever is hard to pull or your tranny is hard to shift. If your tranny is hard to shift when cold check your clutch adjustment. Does your bike want to "walk" in first gear when stopped at idle? You need a little play in your clutch lever. Too tight of a clutch cable adjustment will net your symptoms.

Do you have a repair manual?
If not get one.

 

[tconroy]

already changed the oil, used plain 10-w40. and that's all that's been used AFAIK. This is my first motorcycle and i'm not familiar with wet clutches. good to know that it's normal. thanks.

i always use 10w40 suzuki motorcycle oil. I would not use regular car oil.Some may say thats ok but i prefer motorcycle oil.

 

[mordantmonkey]

didn't know there was a difference between motorcycle oil and car oil. i thought oil weight was oil weight.

sorry, didn't specify yeah the transmission lever is hard to shift. there is almost no freeplay, so hopefully the cable adjustment will work.

 

[tconroy]

didn't know there was a difference between motorcycle oil and car oil. i thought oil weight was oil weight.

sorry, didn't specify yeah the transmission lever is hard to shift. there is almost no freeplay, so hopefully the cable adjustment will work.

Alot of car oils have additves that are not good for the wet clutch systems in these bikes.I will wait to let others chime in on this topic.If it was my bike I would change to motorcycle oil from anywhere I could get it.i buy mine at Donnel's suzuki on 40 hwy.Even advanced auto and wally world has some.Adjust your clutch cable for 1/8 inch of freeplay and see if that makes a difference.

 

[Guest]

What year and model do you have? Some GS bikes have only a cable adjustment which is a lever type on top of the clutch cover. Others have a seperate adjustment that is under the sprocket cover.

 

[salty_monk]

I've been using Castrol GTX 10-40w. TPO used it too, seems to be ok. Plenty of miles on the bike.

Dan

 

[tconroy]

Its a 79 550 EN he is talking about.i dont know much about these bikes.I just sold a 79 750 with the 2 cable throttle and the clutch adjustment in the side case.Nothing like my 83 650.

 

[tconroy]

didn't know there was a difference between motorcycle oil and car oil. i thought oil weight was oil weight.

sorry, didn't specify yeah the transmission lever is hard to shift. there is almost no freeplay, so hopefully the cable adjustment will work.Have you ordered a clymersmanual yet? That the first thing I would do.I will be out riding this weekend if ya want to meet somewhere close to your house.It would be easier to answer your questions if the bike was right there.I also carry enough tools on my bike to do just about anything except rebuild the engine.i would like to get the other kc gs'rs out for a ride also.We have a yahoo group page thats called kc-gs.We have 7 members now.Ya might want to go there and sign up and join that way you will know people in the area with gs's.

 

[tconroy]

Thats good oil.It's the only kind they will let me use in my honda if I want to keep my warranty from being voided.

 

[SqDancerLynn1]

IN very cold weather I would say it's normal for the clutch to drag slightly.
Just give it a few minutes. I usually work the clutch a few time before putting it into gear when cold

 

[Steve]

The oils you want to avoid will have the words "Energy Conserving" in the API seal. I have only seen this in 30-weight and lighter oils. A 10w-40 should be OK.

I have been using Shell Rotella T Synthetic (in the BLUE jug) in my bikes for the last 3 or 4 years. Used to use Mobil 1, but it's hard to find around here. Wal-Mart carries the Rotella for $15 and change for a gallon jug.


.

 

[Steve]

It's the only kind they will let me use in my honda if I want to keep my warranty from being voided.

I am under the impression that if a manufacturer is forcing you to use a particular product to maintain the warranty, then they are to provide it for you, under warranty. I believe that if you read the law, they can set specifications. As long as what you buy meets those specs, you should be fine.


.

 

[Road_Clam]

when first leaving my house i find the clutch near impossible to upshift if below 4k rpm. but above 4k it shifts easily. downshifting is also easy. the problem seems to go away after i've been riding for a few minutes.
this is while riding in cold weather ~30-35F

is this normal, or are new clutch parts in my future?

If a bike sat for a long time, it's common for the clutch pak to become "stuck" this is simply lack of oil between the steel and fiber discs. Give your clutch some time to see if the problem goes away. You could also have a warped steel disc(s) causing the clutch to slightly drag. To do a simple clutch test get your bike quickly into 4th or 5th gear and whack the throttle wide open, if your rpm's quickly rise not your speed, your clutch is cooked. Also thicker viscosity oils (20W-50, 30wt, etc) will aggravate "cold" clutch drag.

 

[mordantmonkey]

I've got a clymers and i'll try adjusting the clutch cable this weekend. but from the manual it looks like i'll have to drain the oil and take the cover off to adjust the cable.

there are so many little things i feel like i need to do to this thing. even though it runs OK, i don't think i'll be satisfied until i get a lot of work done on it.

i need to check wheel alignment, rotor trueness. what's the easiest way to get the front wheel in the air?

also, i stripped one of the oil filter retension bolts. doesn't seem to leak, but how would i go about replacing the bolt?

 

[t3rmin]

If you do have to take the cover off, just lean the bike on the side stand and the oil should collect on the other side of the bike. Didn't loose a drop when I did it that way.