• Required reading for all forum users!!!

    Welcome!
    Register to access the full functionality of the GSResources forum. Until you register and activate your account you will not have full forum access, nor will you be able to post or reply to messages.

    A note to new registrants...
    All new forum registrations must be activated via email before you have full access to the forum.

    A Special Note about Email accounts!
    DO NOT SIGN UP USING hotmail, outlook, gmx, sbcglobal, att, bellsouth or email.com. They delete our forum signup emails.

    A note to old forum members...
    I receive numerous requests from people who can no longer log in because their accounts were deleted. As mentioned in the forum FAQ, user accounts are deleted if you haven't logged in for the past 6 months. If you can't log in, then create a new forum account. If you don't get an error message, then check your email account for an activation message. If you get a message stating that the email address is already in use, then your account still exists so follow the instructions in the forum FAQ for resetting your password.

    Have you forgotten your password or have a new email address? Then read the forum FAQ for details on how to reset it.

    Any email requests for "can't log in anymore" problems or "lost my password" problems will be deleted. Read the forum FAQ and follow the instructions there - that's what we have one for...

  • Returning Visitors

    If you are a returning visitor who never received your confirmation email, then odds are your email provider is blockinig emails from our server. The only thing that can be done to get around this is you will have to try creating another forum account using an email address from another domain.

    If you are a returning visitor to the forum and can't log in using your old forum name and password but used to be able to then chances are your account is deleted. Purges of the databases are done regularly. You will have to create a new forum account and you should be all set.

Straight 50 weight oil

  • Thread starter Thread starter JEEPRUSTY
  • Start date Start date
J

JEEPRUSTY

Guest
So its summer and the temps would allow its usage.
Anyone got a straight weight in their crank.

I cannot imagine you desert dwellers using a 10w based oil.
 
I don't see the point of running straight 50. That stuff is thick as molasses and won't flow very well to protect your engine unless it's fully hot. 20W-50 has the same high temp characteristics without the cold temp downsides.
 
I was told years ago at a training seminar hosted by the factory, that 10w-40 was what should be used.
 
I wonder if that's why it's cast into the oil cap and printed in all the manuals? :-k

.


This from a guy who cannot use a colourtune properly in spite of all the online advice for cv carbs.
 
Rusty never fails to impress.


And you and your over-posting snippy ilk never fail to fail to impress.

Really Tkent make an effort or just get a small spoon and dig a modest sized hole to hide your insignifigance.
 
Rusty never fails to impress.
Sure he does. I can't read his postings. :p

rustyignore.jpg


.
 
Use 50 wt and you will have to let it warm up for 1/2 hour before the clutch will work !!!
 
So its summer and the temps would allow its usage.
Anyone got a straight weight in their crank.

I cannot imagine you desert dwellers using a 10w based oil.

You need to expand the parameters of your imagination

I don't think there's been a bike motor running straight weight oil since the 70's

Is that how you plan to mitigate your unfound oil leak?
 
I run a straight 50w (dino) oil in my '79 Gs1000s and have done for a number of years . Good $hit if you have ambient temps in the 30's and 40's(C) .
I start the old girl up and let her warm while I put my gear on then we go dancin'.


Cheers , Simon . :)
 
Last edited:
I run a straight 50w (dino) oil in my '79 Gs1000s and have done for a number of years . Good $hit if you have ambient temps in the 30's and 40's(C) .
I start the old girl up and let her warm while I put my gear on then we go dancin'.


Cheers , Simon . :)


Hey Simon,

No such thing as 50W oil. The W indicates "winter" and while there is SAE 50 grade oil, there is no 50W.:p

Honestly now, using straight 50 provides no realistic benefit for your engine, and even hurts it compared to something like 20W-50 which flows much more easily at normal ambient temperatures. While that molasses thick 50 weight oil is warming up it's not flowing into places that a 20W oil would. And both 20W-50 and straight 50 will have the exact same thickness at higher engine sump temperatures.

No downside to using multigrade.

As an aside my first car was a Triumph TR4A. The stupid thing seized on the test ride while I was trying to selling it.:mad: Tore off the head to find a piston cracked and the oil control ring pinched and binding. Broke that bad boy ring free and slammed the engine back together only to have a serious oil burning problem, most likely from the scored cylinder wall holding oil. Out of desperation I dumped in straight 50 weight oil to slow the burning and it did the job; still smoked once the oil got warm but much less than before when the oil was cold. The oil pressure gauge went over the top due to the crazy high oil pressure. Sold the car before it blew up to a guy that offered me a lid of pot in partial trade (no, I didn't take the weed, cash only please).:D
 
Last edited:
So I've been using what for the last 4 years ???


Cheers , Simon . :confused:
 
As there are no straight 50W quarts of synthetic oil to be found, yet,
in the Summer when it averages 85-105, I will add one quart of Valvoline VR-1 Racing 50Wt. with 3.5 quarts of synthetic to make it closer to a 30W-50 oil.

Daniel
 
As there are no straight 50W quarts of synthetic oil to be found, yet,
in the Summer when it averages 85-105, I will add one quart of Valvoline VR-1 Racing 50Wt. with 3.5 quarts of synthetic to make it closer to a 30W-50 oil.

Daniel
And the advantage of that would be ...??? :-k

In case nobody has caught on yet, the first number, the one with the "w" after it, is the approximate viscosity when the engine is cold.
The lower the number, the easier it will flow. Why would you want to start with a 30w oil, especially when the manufacturer recommends a 10w?
Personally, I like a thinner oil when cold, so it flows easier and starts lubricating the cam bearings sooner.
The fact that my preferred oil is also a "synthetic" is just icing on the cake, but I use 5w-40 Rotella Synthetic.

Using thicker oil might increase your oil pressure, but please remember that higher pressure does not necessarily mean that you have more oil flowing.
You can plug the oil gallery just downstream from a gauge and see all kinds of pressure, but ZERO flow.

.
 
Back
Top