stud removal oil filter cover

[oldgsfan]

Just a note to anyone having to replace the studs for the oil filter cover - that double nut method of removing studs really works well.

My studs were in bad shape and the acorn nuts weren't holding. It all came to a head last night when I made an oil change in preparation for a long ride today, and I couldn't get the nuts to hold well enough to prevent massive oil leaking.

Anyway, I searched the forums and saw that I would need to replace the 6mm studs.

On the threads I saw, it seemed the advice went from using something called the double nut method or just using a pair of vice grips to remove the old studs.

Not being a mechanic, I hadn't heard of the double nut method but I looked it up, tried it, and it didn't seem to work for me.

I went to the vice grips, but there is so little room in that area I couldn't really make that work, either.

Went back to the double nut method, only this time I twisted the first nut low on the stud, with enough space for one wrench to hold it.. Then I twisted on the second nut. And this time, I made sure to twist the two into each other really tightly.

That did the trick. When I took a wrench to the nuts and unscrewed, the stud came off easily. It worked really well and it's nice to have a new technique in my mental toolbox.

So, thanks for those who mentioned that particular method. You probably saved me from breaking a stud off. I hate to even think of that!

 

[Normk]

Another advantage to the double nut method is that it is less likely to damage the stud so as to make it non-serviceable. When doing home service, one is always limited by the options available so it is well to consider whether a failed attempt will allow one to return to the previous condition. An slight leak from the oil filter cover is a PITA but one can continue to use the bike while considering other options.

If one has used vise grips and chewed the threads or damaged the stud body so that it snaps off when tensioned then the bike is unuseable. Not rocket science but really changes things if one has to trailer the bike to a shop or series of shops to find someone who can deal with the problem.

This type of problem can also limit one's options in terms of finding another solution such as adding a spacer to occupy the damaged portion of threads.

Professionals use collet type stud extracters which thread onto the stud and then clamp the threads tightly in order that the extracter grips the stud to allow sufficient torque to remove. This is similar to the action of a double nut but has some advantages.

Typically, the problem with a stud which does not turn out of the assembly is that the stud is locked by corrosion, bottoming or a designed mechanical action. In most cases, rapid heating of the stud causes the stud to expand which acts to reduce the effect of the grip. Effects such as crushing of the corrosion, plastic reduction of the stud diameter, and/or increasing the bore diameter can be very useful in removal.

The old and tested method of placing a nut over the stud and welding is hard to beat in effective action. It must be appreciated that the longer the length of the stud, the more will be the "winding up" action when attempting to turn.

Here's an example: Ever notice the difference when using Allen bits of long or short length to remove a tight screw? Use a long bit and the bit will often twist/wind up while the shorter bit will resist twisting and remove the screw. Best practice is to use a bit which is so short that the body of the bit socket touches the head of the screw.

The same is true when attempting to turn a seized stud. If the stud can be "gripped" closely to the surface, the turning attempt will be much more effective. Welding can be very effective in this manner also.

Even though many home techs. lack stud removers and the like, most have a propane torch or butane torch, hammer and such. Striking the end of double nuts axially can assist in loosening a stuck stud so long as one does not use sufficient impact to damage the structure. Heating the stud and allowing it to cool can also assist in the process.

HIH

Norm

 

[1_v8_merc]

I had an oil stud snap on my 78.
For me, it's the worst possible thing to happen, because it's SO small and there's no room to work.

I used the double-nut method, Vise grips, Propane torch, and even welded a nut to it.
I "knew" the bolt was eventually gonna snap...just had that feeling.

I eventually drilled it out and managed to retap half of the Hole for 6mm.
It wasn't pretty, but it holds wicked tight now.

I RTV'ed the threads too.

 

[Normk]

I try always to mention the desireability of preventitive intervention when dealing with fasteners. One area is to attempt removal of all the long through bolts running through engine and frame. Remove and run the bolt shanks on the wire wheel or hand clean, coat with a good waterproof wheel bearing grease or marine grease and reinstall.

This will ensure that they don't seize and that you will be able to remove when needed. I recall one older four cylinder which needed the engine pulled for serious surgery but one of the through bolts could not be shifted, even by placing counter tightened nuts onto the bolt, holding a heavy counterweight against the opposte side frame rail, attempting to turn the bolt, while striking with a 10 pound hammer.

We finally ended up by drilling the head and shank ends of the bolts to below the frame rails in order to remove the engine. We sent the engine to a local machine shop who used a large drill press to drill the bolt out of the case. They said that the had to drill almost the complete length before a small sub pushed out. Very nasty! It cost the owner $100.00 for the machine shop to drill and added materially to our shop bill also but we didn't cause the problem!

I am strongly of the conviction that one should remove all fasteners, clean and blue Loctite install with a torque wrench so that they can be removed when needed. There is nothing quite so mean as a broken bolt when trying to get something repaired on a road trip!

Engine bolts such as head, etc. are best left alone but exhaust ones are most often worth attention. Exhaust studs typically become seized and become brittle so care is needed but the trick there is to use a "nut cracker" or small sharp chisel and counter weight to split the nuts axially. Using this technique, the nuts will fall in 1/2 leaving the stud to be thread chased and new nuts with never-seize installed.

This in an ideal world and not recommended to those without a fair level of competency in the trade but certainly saves a lot of grief later.

Time to get some chores done.

HIH

Norm

 

[rbecker]

78 Oil Filter Studs

78 Oil Filter Studs

What is the preferred way to reinstall the studs once you get new ones? I got them all out, but am unsure the best way to make sure the new ones hold and don't just come off the next time I do an oil change an loosen the acorn nuts???

 

[cowboyup3371]

Why do you keep asking the same question in many different threads instead of just sticking to your first one. Nessism already posted that Blue Loctite will do the job for you.

 

[Guest]

Great

Great

Norm.....excellent and interesting information; thanks!